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Greywater-safe DIY soap questions

 
pollinator
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In about 15 years I want to build a house and I am interested in including a greywater system. Such systems typically require special soaps. Rather than go researching this frantically the night before my greywater system comes "online" as it were, I'd like to be prepared. I know nothing about soap at the moment and have never made it or even watched it get made.

Are DIY soaps are better quality for less money than off-the-shelf greywater-safe soaps out there right now?

Note I said "soaps" and "products"--plural. I do not anticipate that I'd want the soap I use for bathing to be the same I use to do dishes, clean my clothes, mop my floors, etc.  How are DIY greywater-safe versions of each of these made?

If DIY is the way to go, presumably there's an economy of scale that kicks in somewhere? Or is it cheaper even if you make a single batch of soap and call it quits? I.e., What kind of cost per ounce of finished DIY soap can I expect? (And, how long does soap take to make at home?)

Is it possible to DIY greywater-safe liquid soap e.g. for hand-washing?

I'll ask more questions as I think them, but hopefully for now these questions are enough to give you knowledgeable people plenty of work!
 
Rusticator
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We have a graywater system, so I've been taking care of that since we moved here, 5yrs ago,  and much of my life (including now) has been in housing with septic tanks. Hot process soaps can be used immediately. In fact, I use the residual soap in the crockpot(I picked one up at a resale shop for $3) to wash everything I used, to make it. Cold process soaps, depending on their content, take anywhere from 4 weeks to 6 months to cure. I prefer doing hot process, because I'm impatient, and the cost & time investment are the same. The cost of each is entirely dependent on the oils you choose, which, combined with the oil/lye ratio (aka superfat %) is also the primary deciding factor in each soap's purpose.

A lower fat content is more drying, and will help break down grease and oils better, so I use a non-super-fatted soap (0% superfat), and some borax, for household things like dishwashing and as stain sticks.

My hair is curly and long, so the ends tend to get dry, so I use about a 5 - 6% superfat, for shampoo bars, with a bit of lemon juice as my conditioner. I'm getting a bit older, and my skin isn't holding moisture as well as it used to, so I want a 6 - 7% superfat, for that, and have split the difference, going with a 6%superfat, using tallow I render, myself (from fat trimmings off the meats we eat), for ease - 1 type of bar for my head-to-toe use makes things so much simpler! I can and do infuse my oils with herbs (some of which I manage to grow, myself), use goat milk from my own goats, and a bit of honey (which will, starting next spring, come from my own bees), for a better lather. As you might deduce, the narrower your chosen spectrum of oils, and the more ingredients you can supply from your own homestead &/or foraging, the less expensive your soap becomes. I like some argan, hazelnut, jojoba, avocado, and castor oils in my body bar, but they're all used in small amounts, and if I had to, I could easily do without them - but, I like their effects, so I'd pout. (And, John doesn't like when I pout, so he keeps me well supplied.)

Those vinegar based cleansers are cheap, easy, effective, and environmentally sound. For non-glass cleaning, I infuse all my citrus fruit peels into plain white vinegar. The size container I start with depends on how many peels are available, and how much I want to make. A gallon container, roughly 1/3 full of roughly chopped citrus peels and topped off with plain white vinegar, lidded, and set aside to infuse for a few weeks costs only the price of the vinegar, if you were eating the citrus, anyway. This is then poured off & diluted (or not) as needed(I don't usually bother straining it, until it's needed). For strong grease cutting, use it straight. For general cleaning, a 1:1 dilution is sufficient, if not too strong. For floors, it would depend on the floor material and the mess you're cleaning up.

For glass cleaning, a 1:1ratio of straight white vinegar & water will clean the most stubborn grunge and leave it streak free - especially if you dry it with the black&white, non-slick pages of a newspaper.

Baking soda or salt & a slice or half of a lemon make an incredible scrubbing team, on the caked-on ick of pan bottoms, grills, tile, etc.

I do buy Meliora brand laundry soap, because we also have a HE front loading washer, and I'm unimpressed by homemade laundry soaps, in that. I only use white vinegar, for softening, and occasionally will put a few drops of essential oil on a cloth and throw it into the dryer, for freshening/scenting - especially in winter (or rainy weather), when I'm not able to get outside, to hang my laundry. Many permies hang their laundry out, year 'round. My disabilities too often make that an over-the-top effort, for me, and my livestock takes priority for my available energy.

The thing is, just starting somewhere with a thing, as you run out of the store-bought versions of whatever you need, will ease your budget, increase your self-reliance, and help you tread more lightly through your environment, one step at a time. Most of this - except for making my own soaps & shampoos - I've been doing since I was a kid, because that's just how my families did things. The rest I learned out of necessity, as an adult, as I developed allergies & sensitivities to commercially available products.
 
Ned Harr
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Thanks, Carla. It sounds like learning soap making is in my medium-term future.
 
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