Hazel varieties for coppicing, blight resistant?

Anyone have any tips on what varieties of Hazelnut would be good to use in Missouri (6a) in a clay soil, that would be good for coppicing and blight resistant?

Ideally that would also produce nuts at a very young age, so as the coppice would be growing to maturity it would have nut harvests available. I'm looking for something similar to the european hazelnut (Corylus avellana) that you can coppice on a 7 year cycle, at the end of which produces rods about 10-12 feet long and 3" or so butt diameter.

I can't answer your question though I did find this nursery in Missouri that sells American Hazelnut/Corylus Americana.

This was Posted Oct 8 2023 and the nursery is closing up shop for the autumn and has discounted plant prices available for pick-up or with standard shipping:

https://permies.com/t/230516/Autumn-Perennial-Nursery-Seasonal-Closeout

Thanks Anne, I'll have a look.

Bryan de Valdivia wrote:Anyone have any tips on what varieties of Hazelnut would be good to use in Missouri (6a) in a clay soil, that would be good for coppicing and blight resistant?

Ideally that would also produce nuts at a very young age, so as the coppice would be growing to maturity it would have nut harvests available. I'm looking for something similar to the european hazelnut (Corylus avellana) that you can coppice on a 7 year cycle, at the end of which produces rods about 10-12 feet long and 3" or so butt diameter.

Check out Grimo, Z-nutty, Twisted Tree Farm and Burnt Ridge for seeds / seedlings of hybrid varieties.  There are lots of options. Depending on what you hope to get out of your coppicing efforts you may want to stick with hybrid. American hazelnuts stems are generally much smaller than amerian/european hybrids.

I would think that, while American hazel might be blight resistant they produce material of a much smaller diameter than the European vartiety. I mentioned before that are many blight resistant varieties to be found at Burnt Ridge Nursery. However as I understand it, most of those were developed via breeding efforts in Oregon and reportedly their resistant may not hold up under disease pressure in the east. You want stick with varsities developed closer to where developed to be resistant in the region you reside in. The Northern Fruit and Nut Growers and the Indiana Fruit and nut growers associations are a good source of info.