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The Amazing Hazel - The Essential Guide to Everything you need to know about Hazels

 
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Hazel is a multi purpose champion of a plant that is super easy to grow, produces delicious nuts, pliable wood that can be crafted into a variety of products, provides early fodder for bees and an encouraging spectacle when flowering during the mid winter.

What more can I say.... a plant so good people started naming their daughters after it.

To view this post with tables , photos and diagrams go over to our blog here - https://balkanecologyproject.blogspot.bg/2017/07/the-amazing-hazel-essential-guide-to.html



Hazel - Corylus spp,

When we speak of Hazel  we are generally referring to two species, Corylus avellana and Corylus maxima. The two species produce slightly different shape nuts and take different growth forms.  Corylus avellana produce Hazelnuts and Corylus maxima produce Filberts. There are 14–18 species in the Corylus genus but many of the European cultivars we have nowadays are Corylus avellana, Corylus maxima or the result of hybrids between these two species. This post we will focus solely on these popular nut producing species.


The leafy bracts that envelope the nuts are the easiest way of telling the species apart.

During this post we'll take a close look at these versatile plants, including how and where to grow them, growing them in polycultures, how they can be used in agroforestry systems, coppicing hazel, and we'll look at some of my favourite hardy productive and disease resistant cultivars that we are offering from our Bionursery.

Overview

Latin name - Corylus avellana, Corylus maxima
Common name - Hazel, Hazelnut, Cobnut, Filbert, Spanish Nut, Pontic Nut, Lombardy Nut.
Family- Betulaceae


History -  Pollen counts reveal that Corylus avellana was the first of the temperate deciduous forest trees to immigrate, establish itself and then become abundant in the post glacial period. Humans have been enjoying hazels since prehistoric times and it is thought by some that hazelnuts provided a staple source of food before the days of wheat.  Evidence of large-scale Mesolithic nut processing, some 9,000 years old, was found in Scotland and Hazels have been used extensively across the temperate zone throughout all civilizations.
 



Corylus avellana - Common Hazel



Description - Corylus avellana - Grows as a small tree or large shrub commonly reaching heights of 5 m with a 5 m spread, but sometimes can reach twice that height and takes a tree like form. The leaves, that open in late April and May and fall in November, are almost circular with double toothed edges and a short pointed tip. The leafy bracts are shorter than the nut.


Description - Corylus maxima - Grows as a large shrub 6 m high with a 5 m spread. Resembling C.avellana but with young grey twigs, glandular and bristly leaves that are wider, longer catkins and leafy bracts that are tubular and closed twice the length of the nut. The nuts are also longer than C. avellana    

Both species are monoecious . The male flowers are encased in catkins that brighten up the landscape in the winter. The female flowers are tiny red tassels that emerge from buds on the stems.  





Sexual Reproduction - As mentioned above the plants are monoecious, producing male and female flowers on the same plant.  The male flowers are held in catkins that form during the previous summer and open in the dead of winter and flower through to early spring. There are around 240 male flowers in each catkin and these produce the pollen. Give the catkins a flick in late February to see a small cloud of pollen erupt. Contrary to the wonderful spectacle of the male flowers, female flowers are almost invisible unless you are actively looking for them. They are tiny individual flowers, visible only as red styles protruding from a green bud-like structure on the same branches as the male flowers.
A wind pollinated plant, the pollen from the catkins blows to reach the female flowers. If successfully pollinated and fertilized the female flower will grow to become  1- 4 nuts C. avellana  or  1 - 6 nuts C.maxima .




Growing Range - Corylus avellana is native to western Asia, north Africa and most of Europe, from from British Isles eastwards to Russia and the Caucasus, and from central Scandinavia southwards to Turkey. Corylus avellana is native to the Balkans and Asia Minor but is widely naturalised elsewhere.

Both species are pioneer plants found in a range of habitats. As a component of ancient forests they prefer moist lowland soil and are often found growing in the shade of deciduous trees, especially oak. They can be found in hedges, meadows and pastures, on the banks of streams, waste places, abandoned plantings, the edges of woods, on steep slopes and by paths and roadsides. Hazel grows naturally up to altitudes of 700 m

Hazelnut-producing regions of the world are all close to large bodies of water, which moderate the climate. About 70% of the world’s hazelnut production comes from the black sea region of northern Turkey. Italy produces about 20% of world production. Spain, France, Georgia, Azerbaijan, and the United States produce most of the rest.

Hardiness USDA - Corylus avellana – Zone 4-8
                             Corylus maxima – Zone 5-8

Ecology - Hazel flowers are an important source of pollen for bees and other pollinators. The pollen-bearing catkins can be available to pollinators from as early as late January - late March. Hazel leaves are used as food plants by the larvae of various species of Lepidoptera. The nuts are used by dormice to fatten up for hibernation and in spring the leaves are a good source of food for caterpillars, which dormice also eat. Hazel nuts are also eaten by woodpeckers, nuthatches, tits, wood pigeons, jays and a number of small mammals.

Where to Plant

Climatic limitations  - Both species crop best in areas with cool, moist summers and mild cool winters or in maritime climates. Areas with high summer temperatures are not ideal although good cultivar selection can improve results. Areas with extreme winter cold can also be problematic. The shoots of the plants are hardy to -29 C (-20 F) although winter temperatures below -10 C (-13 F) during the flowering period may damage the male flowers reducing the likelihood of fruit set that year.    
The plants will not grow well in tropical or sub tropical climates and require a winter chilling period of 800 - 1200 hrs below 7 C (45 F) which is similar to apples.

Soil - Hazel tolerates a wide variety of soils from calcareous to acid, loam to clay and prefers soil that's well drained and fairly low in nutrients; overly rich soil gives plenty of leaf growth at the expense of flowers and nuts. Hazels will not grow well in water logged and peaty soils. Shallow soils will restrict the growth and height of hazel.

Location - If growing for nut production in cold climates you should avoid planting in frost pockets, and in hot climates avoid windy sites. Hazelnut trees also cannot tolerate excessive heat or a long dry season. A sheltered area with a reliable source of irrigation is essential in hot climates.

Pollination - Hazels are wind pollinated. As mentioned above cold weather (-10 C and under) during the flowering time can destroy flowers and reduce fruit set. Heavy rain during the time where pollen is being released can also suppress the amount of pollen carried in the air and moist conditions destroys pollen viability.  

The plants are in theory self fertile meaning the pollen from the male flowers can pollinate and fertilize the female flower that will go on to form nuts. However, the blossoming times of the male and female flowers do not always coincide and for this reason it is recommended to plant 2 or more different cultivars to increase the likelihood of pollination occurring. Wild growing hazel nearby will serve as good pollinating agents for most cultivars and there are many cultivars that work well together to ensure fuller cropping. There are some cultivars that absolutely require pollinating partners so research your cultivars well  A good rule of thumb for how many pollinator plants you need to support you main cropping cultivar is 1 to 18. On sites where wet weather is common during the flowering period this can be increased. The pollinating partner should be a maximum of 45 m away and upwind from the main cropping plants.

Pollen is released from the male flowers in bursts across a 4- 6 week period in January - March. Interestingly, the pollen germinates as soon as it reaches a receptive flower but the fertilization process does not take place for another 4-5 months in June. Once fertilized the female flowers develop nuts very rapidly with 90% growth occurring within 4 - 6 weeks.            


Fertility, Irrigation and Care

Fertility - On good soils hazel will not need fertilisers. On poor soils, planting out with 30 L of compost (applied to the surface) and mulching well with straw and repeating this each spring for 4- 5 years will provide a good boost to growth. Planting nitrogen fixing companions can also be very effective.

Irrigation - In cooler climates such as the UK irrigation is not necessary. In warmer climes with hot summers and long periods without rain, applying 30 L of water per tree every 3-4  weeks without rain and mulching well is very effective.  

Weeding - Mulching plants with a 10 -20 cm deep mulch each spring and pulling weeds that start to grow through in the summer is good practice especially when the plants are young.

Pruning -  When planting out single stemmed whips it's good practice to prune the top down to 45 cm to encourage lower branching. We don't prune our Hazels but there is a tradition, as with most fruit trees,  to pruning to achieve an open centered goblet shaped bush.  If you are growing plants that sucker, suckering growth should be removed to keep the stems clear and the crown less congested.



A classic pruning example practiced in commercial hazel orchards

If you are going to prune than it's important to know that female flower (that will form nuts) are produced from buds on growth from the previous seasons growth. For optimal nut production you should aim to have plenty of previous years stems  at least 15-25 cm long.  

I read an interesting comment regarding a traditional method to increase nut production called 'brutting'. This involves prompting more of the trees' energy to go into flower bud production, by snapping, but not breaking off, the tips of the new year shoots' six or seven leaf groups from the join with the trunk or branch, at the end of the growing season. I'll be trying this on a few of our plants this year.



Harvesting - The nuts are fully ripe when the husks begin to yellow and can be picked by hand. Nuts will naturally drop over a 4-6 week period. It's important to not pick before they are ripe as they will shrivel and do not keep well.



Layering and Stooling

Propagation - We have grown hundreds of hazels from locally gathered seed and this is a very easy and reliable method to propagate these plants. Most of our seedling stock we use for coppice plants and hedging plants. For nut production we use cultivars as they generally fruit within the 3rd and 4th year after planting and you know what kind of nut you will end up with.

Seedlings can take up to 6 or 7 years to produce nuts and you never know what they will be like. Saying that, we have some great nut producing seedlings that we propagated from local plants. They appear to be more resistant to the cold and have been providing a reliable crop each year even after bitter cold late winters.

Another great way to propagate hazel, including cultivars that are grown on their own roots, is by stooling and layering. Stooling involves heaping soil at the base of the plant, leaving it for 12 months and then dividing the rooted stems.  Layering is burying the stems in the soil for 12 months and cutting them off the main plant once the stem has rooted. Hazels that are grafted onto their own roots will send up suckers. These suckers can be dug out in the winter and planted on. The suckers can be a nuisance and will need cutting back to promote better production. Corylus colurna - Turkish hazel is often used as a rootstock providing non-suckering cultivars and a deeper rooting habit. Cultivars on Corylus colurna rootstocks are often very vigorous.





Potential Problems

Excessive Heat: Hazelnut trees cannot tolerate excessive heat or a long dry season. They are especially sensitive to drying in windy conditions.

Cold injury:  Although a very hardy plant, when growing for nut production the trees are vulnerable during the flowering period in early - late winter. Temperatures below -10 C (-13 F) during the flowering period will damage the male flowers and destroy the pollen reducing the likelihood of fruit set that year. Because not all catkins elongate at the same time, crop damage usually is minimal if there is only a brief cold spell.

Insect/Pest: Grey squirrels are major pest of hazels. Nut weevils - Balaninus nucum can destroy the maturing nuts. Beetles lay eggs in the immature nuts. The eggs hatch into maggots that eat the maturing nut and bore out of the shell to pupate in the soil where they overwinter before hatching, mating and laying more eggs in the next crop. Clearing up the fallen nuts is good way to control this pest. Running chicken under the hazels in September can also disturb the pupae in the soil.  


Nut Weevils - Balaninus nucum Photo from - https://www.flickr.com/photos/eric-dutoit/5956692789


Disease:  In the US this species is affected by Eastern Filbert Blight (EFB), which is caused by the fungus Anisogramma anomola and is fatal to trees. However EFB can be controlled by a variety of management strategies and does not present a major threat to the species as a whole.
Bacterial Blight - Xanthomonas campestris pv. corylina causes leaf spotting, dieback of branches and in worst cases death. Trees under stress are most susceptible.  

Suckering - Hazels can sucker profusely and the suckers need to be cut back to allow an open crown and avoid congestion. There are cultivars that do not sucker, generally those grown on the Corylus colurna root stocks.

Allergies: The pollen of hazel species are often the cause for allergies in late winter or early spring,

Hazel Uses

Beyond the nutritious delicious nuts hazels can be used for a variety of purposes.

Wood  - Hazel is almost as well known for coppicing as it is for its nuts. The poles from coppice (known as 'wands') are long and flexible and have traditionally been used for wattle fencing, thatching spars, walking sticks, fishing rods, basketry, pea and bean sticks and firewood. The wood is soft and easy to split but not very durable (See Hazel Coppice below).


Adding value to the coppice material


Oil -  The nut oil is used as edible oil and contains 65% of a non-drying oil that can be used in paints, cosmetics etc.

Animal Fodder - The twigs can be used to feed rabbits and goats all year around and the leaves are very palatable to cattle.

Leaves - Leaves contain on average 2.2% N. 0.7% K and 0.12% P and when applied as mulch make a great fertilizer. The plant has potential to be grown as chop and drop component in a polyculture system.

Hedging - Hazel makes a great hedge taking well to trimming and providing a dense screen. Nut production is not as high as when grown as free standing plants but some nuts can be harvested from the hedge. The plants are also tolerant of wind and a 2 or 3 row windbreak can be set up where alternate rows are coppiced on a 7 year cycle.

Bee Fodder - Hazel is an excellent source of early forage for bees providing a source of pollen from February through to March. We include hazel in our Early Polleniser Polyculture, a polyculture dedicated to providing an early source of pollen/nectar to a wide diversity of pollinating insects.


The Early Polleniser Polyculture


Medicinal uses - The leaves are used in allopathy: their effect is to stimulate circulation and bile production, and they are used for liver and gall disorders. Hazelnuts are rich in protein, monounsaturated fat, vitamin E, manganese, and numerous other essential nutrients.

Other uses - The finely ground seeds are used as an ingredient of face masks in cosmetics.


Hazelnut Yields

Hazelnut trees can produce a few nuts when they are 2 or 3 years old, but they are not considered commercially productive until 4 years of age and reach peak production from years 10 - 15.  Mature orchards can produce 1 -3 metric tons per ha. An orchard can remain productive for about 40–50 years if managed well and kept free of disease.


Yield per mature tree Yield per acre
4050 m2 Yield per Ha
10000 m2
Average Production   3-5 kg 880-1760 lbs 1-2 tonnes
Max Production 11 kg 2640 lbs 3 tonnes




Example of Coppice - http://www.greenwaytreecare.co.uk/images/Coppicing2.jpg
Hazel Coppice

Hazel coppice has been practiced extensively in the past and still provides an excellent source of valuable wood especially if you are adding value with wood crafting.

Contrary to what you may expect, coppicing the hazel can extend the life of the plant considerably with some well managed coppices being centuries old.

Hazel can be grown on various coppice cycles for a supply of poles ('Wands') that are used for a variety of purposes as listed above. A 7 - 10 year rotation is often practiced and is planted out at a rate of 1500 - 2000 plants per ha (spacing is 2.2 - 2.6 m between plants).
In the 7th - 10th year the shoots should be 4-5m long and can be cut at any point during the year apart from August but is usually carried out in the winter. If you cut the coppice in the summer, leaves from the wood make an excellent cattle feed or mulch.  Regrowth will quickly reestablish and is vulnerable to browsing from wild and domestic animals. After the first few coppice cycles, regrowth will be fast but after 15 years it will decline.  If a hazel coppice is not well managed i.e cut at regular intervals for 40+ years  it will die back.

How much wood can be harvested? - A site with 1500 plants per ha can yield 20 tonnes of dry wood or 40 m3 of wood per ha per cycle.

Hazel coppices are often combined with standard trees to make a two storey forest. Sweet Chestnut is a classic combination in the South of England. Oak is also very commonly grown  with hazel at a rate of 30 - 100 standard trees per Ha. Too many standard trees will shade out the hazel.    


Hazel (in the middle) with standard Sweet Chestnut trees in the background

Hazel Polycultures

Hazels are excellent plants for use in polycultures. They are tolerant of shade so suitable in the under storey, are not very nutrient demanding or competitive and are relatively compact and easy to manage. They tolerate pruning very well and can be used for chop and drop plants grown between fruit trees or in hedgerows. If nut production is sought after they should be given a prime position but can still accommodate a range of productive and useful plants around them.

We have used hazel in various polycultures including living hedges, main crop contour plantings and habitat polycultures.

Here's an example of a design with hazel planted in a polyculture hedge.


I included hazel in a mixed species living hedge I designed for Permaculture Orchard - Orehite Ranch - Veslec

We'll be planting out Hazel in our new trial garden - Ataraxia, where we are growing it along with asparagus, currants, wild garlic and various bulbs in 1.5 m wide beds.



Here's a short list of ground cover and bulbous plants that we observe growing well with hazel.

Bellis perennis - Daisy
Primula vulgaris - Primrose
Scilla bifolia - Alpine Squill
Trifolium repens - White Clover
Corydalis bulbosa - Spring Fumewort
Galanthus gracilis - Snowdrop


Agroforestry Potential Of Hazels

There is great potential for hazels in agroforestry systems. Traditionally, in Europe, hazels were grown in a silvopasture system with sheep grazing the pasture beneath the trees, this has an added benefit of controlling suckering growth. Hazel has also been grown with vines and in Kentish orchards gooseberries and currants were traditionally inter planted with young hazel.

I've included hazel in a few agroforestry designs the most recent being a 30 ha pastured poultry system where we're using hazel amongst mulberry planted on contour.



 

Being shade tolerant the trees are good candidates for use in an under storey. In deep shade the plants will not produce a significant yield of nuts but they can be used for coppicing or mulch production. In partial shade they can still produce good yields.

Hazelnut cultivars - Hardy and Resistant to Major Pests and Diseases

There are hundreds of hazel cultivars throughout the world, not to mention the hybrids, American and Chinese species or the Trazels, Filazels and Hazelberts (perhaps a topic for another post).

Most cultivars belong to Corylus maxima but there are many Corylus avellana and many grafted onto Corylus colurna rootstock. When selecting cultivars for your garden there a few things to consider.

flowering times - to avoid cold damage in the winter choose a late flowering cultivar
suckering behaviour -  to avoid pruning work or perhaps if growing for mulch or biomass this could be desirable
size and vigor - to select the right size plant for your garden  
pollinator partners - to facilitate larger and more reliable yields



Hazel Cultivars from our Bionursery

Below you can find profiles of some excellent cultivars that we have on offer at our Bionursery.

We are currently offering cultivars at ​​ €5.3 per tree with 10% discount for orders over 20 trees. We also have 2nd year Hazel seedlings for hedgerows, biomass, pollinating partners etc for €4 per plant.

Looking for a supply for your orchard and farm?  For larger orders please send us an email and we will provide you with a quote.





Corylus avellana - 'Ata Baba'
Fruit - Round medium size fruits of 1.4 g grouped in clusters of 3 or 4 . Ripen in mid August
Pollination - Self fertile
Hardiness - Full hardy withstanding temperatures as low as -34 C
Disease Resistance - Corylus colurna root stock which has a high resistance to the main European pests attacking hazelnut crop
Form - Bush variety, very vigorous multistemmed and flowering early towards the end on December

Corylus avellana - 'Ran Trapezundski'
Fruit - Great tasting large oval fruits with thin shells that ripen at the end of July
Pollination -  Not Self fertile - Pollinated by Rimski, Bademoviden and Atta Baba
Hardiness - Full hardy withstanding temperatures as low as -34 C
Disease Resistance - Corylus colurna root stock which has a high resistance to the main European pests attacking hazelnut crop
Form - Bush, medium vigor, multi stemmed, fruits abundantly.

Corylus avellana - 'Rimski'
Fruit - Large rounded nuts about 2.7g. Thin shell. 67% fat content. The fruits ripen in mid August
Pollination - Not Self fertile - Pollinated by Bademoviden and Ran Trapezundski
Hardiness - Full hardy withstanding temperatures as low as -34 C
Disease Resistance - Corylus colurna root stock which has a high resistance to the main European pests attacking hazelnut crop
Form - Bush variety. fast growing, multi stemmed with an upright crown.

Corylus avellana - 'Tonda Gentile'
Fruit - Excellent flavour, med - large round nuts of 2.5g with a thin shell
Pollination - Not Self fertile - Pollinated by Rimski, Bademoviden and Ata Baba
Hardiness - Full hardy withstanding temperatures as low as -34 C
Disease Resistance - Corylus colurna root stock which has a high resistance to the main European pests attacking hazelnut crop
Form - Moderate growth rates and can be grown as single stemmed trees

Corylus avellana - 'Cosford'
Fruit - The nuts have hard shells.100 g of fresh nuts contains 13 g protein, 61 g fat, 13,7 g carbohydrates and 3.5 g fiber. They mature in late September.
Pollination - Self fertile, a good pollinator for many other Hazels, a good choice if you are starting your own nut orchard.
Hardiness - Full hardy withstanding temperatures as low as -34 C
Disease Resistance - Generally disease free
Form - Bush variety. fast growing, multi stemmed with an upright crown.

To order some hazel cultivars for delivery this winter contact us at balkanecologyproject@gmail.com

We can provide tracked and recorded delivery to anywhere in Europe


Keeping in Touch

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While researching for this article a major resource was Volume 2 No 2, 3 and 4 of the excellent Agroforestry News, a quarterly publication from Martin Crawford - Director of Agroforestry Research Trust. I highly recommend subscription to this journal as essential reading for all who are interested in temperate tree crops and agroforestry.



Would you like to join us for our Regenerative Landscape Design course in Sep 2017?


Regenerative Landscape Design Course


We offer a range of plants and seeds for permaculture and forest gardens from our plant nursery including a new range of fruit and nut cultivars well suited to natural gardens. Delivery to all over Europe available from Nov - March


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Balkan Ecology Project Bio-Nursery

References
Martin Crawford - Agroforestry News Volume 2  - Number 2, 3 &4
Hazel Ecology - http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/63521/0
Hazel Flowers - https://granthamecology.wordpress.com/2016/02/03/hazel-flowers/
History - http://www.geog.qmul.ac.uk/popweb/corylus/palaeo.htm
Cultivation - https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/43804/em9072.pdf
 
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This is the most information about hazelnut trees/shrubs that I have ever seen in one place! I planted one 15" tall sapling in 2015 and now it is about 12' tall. The pollen catkins were strikingly abundant this late winter, but I have yet to see a nut on that bush!  What is most interesting in your article is the information about coppicing. I have pruned my shrubs and small trees and used the prunings for beanpoles, etc. but have only cut shrubs to the ground in an attempt to do away with them! (I am trying to eliminate one viburnum opulus which is vastly overgrown and in a terrible spot. It doesn't want to die, even after I dug around the roots and hacked at them) With coppicing, does the entire shrub need to be cut, and how much stem do I leave above the crown? I only have the one hazel and do like how it looks much of the year until the Japanese beetles have their way with it. Space is at a premium in my small yard! What if I cut a few large branches each year, like on a 3-year renewal cycle?
 
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Location: Made with Love Urban Farm Kamloops BC Canada
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Wow! It really is super extensive information. Thank-you!
 
Alexandra and Colin Proctor
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Location: Made with Love Urban Farm Kamloops BC Canada
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Ooooo... and I would love to hear if any others have noticed which plants like to grow with hazels. Our understory has remained virtuallu empty beneath them for years... even the apple mint we transplanted didn't take. I have heard of a hazel orchard having great success with truffles beneath them.... but would love to hear of any other edible successes in the food forest model for beneath hazels.
 
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You wrote: "large-scale Mesolithic nut processing, some 9,000 years old, was found in Scotland". Yes, I remember reading about this some years ago, and that whole islands near Scotland were covered with hazel, and the denuded landscape around Scotland of today looked very different then. Also, during that time nuts were put in fire/roasted, they were not eaten raw. In a way this makes sense, as roasted hazelnuts tastes amazing, like some new flavours being brought out. Some believe even that they were used as some sort of currency in some areas.

Hazelnuts are a "hidden" ingredient in some chocolates/desserts. Nutella for instance is made with hazelnuts... (not recommending that particular brand). The combination chocolate and roasted hazelnuts is amazing.
Roasted hazelnuts in salads, or with meat or game, is also very good.
Concerning digestion/intolerance/allergies, hazelnut should be eaten in moderation, as any other nut, and roasted nuts are much easier to digest than raw ones.

The wood is extremely flexible, you could build a hazel bender for instance.
 
Lana Weldon
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Some more info about hazel in this Scottish site:

https://www.highlandtitles.com/blog/tremendous-trees-hazel/
 
Lana Weldon
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And you also help wildlife by growing hazel:
The endangered Hazel Dormice (from south of England) eats the nuts to fatten up before hibernation. And in spring the leaves have caterpillars, which dormice also eat.
The leaves feed the caterpillars of moths, coppiced hazel gives shelter for ground-nesting birds (nightingale, nightjar, yellowhammer, willow warbler)
The nuts are also popular with woodpeckers, nuthatches, tits, wood pigeons, jays and small mammals
 
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I just want to note that several years ago, my neighbor bought 40 hazelnut-filbert hybrid seedlings, distributed among several takers locally. This was the result of an effort by the Arbor Day Foundation and others, to come up with a cross that had the size and nut size of the European filbert, but the blight resistance of the American hazelnut. They sold several named cultivars. But apparently they declared success too soon, because most of the plants didn't even live, some declined, got sick and never grew, and a few actually thrived--one is in my orchard, but it has yet to produce a nut after five years or so. Perhaps the problem is that there are lots of wild hazelnuts in this area, and the hybrids can't withstand the disease pressure of that situation. Perhaps it's all moot anyway given the density of grey squirrels here--last year they stole nearly all my apples. We also tried grafting hardy pecans and improved hickories onto our wild hickory saplings, but so far the pecans especially are so slow growing my neighbor will be dead long before they reach bearing age, and that may be the case with my hybrids and improved hickories too. We have lots ofwild  hickories but none that let the nuts out of the sinuses of the shells, unfortunately.
 
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Here is SW Missouri, our white tailed buddies just love hazelnuts.  Of course they have tons (literally) of acorns and hickory nuts to feast on.  Around here Walnuts tend to be a squirrel thing.  Be well.  Jim Johnson
 
pollinator
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Are there any nutting machines that are for home use?  Would love to grow some hazels but I expect I would be the only person in the family to eat them since cracking is involved.
 
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Lana Weldon wrote:And you also help wildlife by growing hazel:


Yes, my two hazels certainly helped grey squirrels in my neighborhood. They helped themselves to the nuts year after year before they ripened enough to harvest, until I finally gave up and laboriously dug them out and planted fruit trees. I like hazelnuts but never got a chance to sample any from my trees. 😣
 
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Alexandra and Colin Proctor wrote:Ooooo... and I would love to hear if any others have noticed which plants like to grow with hazels. Our understory has remained virtuallu empty beneath them for years... even the apple mint we transplanted didn't take. I have heard of a hazel orchard having great success with truffles beneath them.... but would love to hear of any other edible successes in the food forest model for beneath hazels.



My father worked as a nature reserve ranger and a large area of their forest was hazelnut copice, not much grows under it the shade is to dense, but bluebells, dogs mercury, wood anenomies and wood sorrel did. of those only the wood sorrel is edible.
 
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Very informative. Thank you.
But I DO have a question...
How do you keep squirrels from eating your hazels, or cutting & dropping the immature ones to the ground?
I have gotten NO hazels in the 10 or so years I've had the trees.  I did, however, see one on the ground.
 
David Wieland
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Cindy Loos wrote:Very informative. Thank you.
But I DO have a question...
How do you keep squirrels from eating your hazels


Yes, that's the question. I judged that mine were much too big to cage (bird netting wouldn't deter squirrels), so I had to eventually admit defeat. Costco's mixed nuts is my hazelnut source now.
 
pollinator
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I put in over 100 hazelnut bushes 3, 4 and 5 years ago.
They didn't all survive so I have about 96.
Some do really well, start producing the third year and even better the forth.

One is large and produces many now. It was the first to produce at 3 years.
One is small and produced many the 3rd year.
Most, big or small, don't produce much or anything at all.
Several medium size with medium crop.

Is it possible to move the good ones?
Do they transplant well after they are over 4 years old.


 
Mary Cook
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On squirrels: none of our hybrid filbert-hazelnuts has ever produced a nut, but one wild one growing under a persimmon tree right by my greenhouse door (attached to the house) has produced nice crops twice, that the squirrels seem to have overlooked. I'm afraid if our grafted pecan-hickory hybrids/improved hickories ever get big enough to produce nuts the squirrels will take them all. We call this place hickory ridge and it's squirrel heaven. But last year, for the first time, squirrels swiped all my apples before they were mature--I finally picked a few well before they were ripe so I would get any at all. This may be because we had a drought, but I'm afraid of a repeat. I would think you could use what has worked well for my blueberries: I built a square structure around them, with metal fenceposts in the corners and one-inch mesh chickenwire six feet tall around, and then I throw bird netting over the top during the season when they're ripening. That won't work for my fruit trees which are ten feet tall--I think I may have to take up squirrel hunting.
 
Skandi Rogers
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Brunswick Stew

Sounds like some of you need some recipes! if you can't eat nuts eat the squirrels and hope for some nutty flavours?
 
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Squirrels: If you have "stand alone" trees (no low branches, tree to tree or structure to tree) access simply prevent them from climbing the trunks.

Single wall stove pipe (any smooth large diameter pipe) can work well; snap around trunk, a few weeks before ripening, remove once harvest is complete.  

Electric netting costs about a buck a foot and can be used around a grove of trees; again deployed two weeks before ripe and removed once harvest is complete.

Both methods are easy to set up, move or reposition, as needed, to prevent any tree climbers access: squirrel, raccoon, rat etc.
 
Mary Cook
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I was just looking at that...but the tree cover is continuous above the orchard. I'd have to cut down so many trees for that...and they could probably still leap from the roof of the chicken coop. Since I have free range chickens, I'd rather leave the trees for the cover (from hawks). I need another solution. Also--two weeks? Those $%$%^  took apples at least a month under-ripe. I thought it might have been the moisture, as we had a severe drought July-September last year, and we're on a ridge...but I've been seeing squirrels running from the coop roof into the apple trees lately. I throw rocks at them, from the adjacent garden...I did try spraying with pepper solution, as well as putting socks over the apples last year. Neither helped.
 
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Mary, we hardly ever see squirrels here though we are on the edge of the woods. However when we walk on the first ridge away from the house there's always several scampering about.  The only conclusion I've come up with is that either they're afraid of the cats or the cats keep them thinned out.  
 
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Interesting "essential guide".  However, I would have liked to see some discussion of the native beaked hazelnut, Corylus cornuta, that I have many of around my lot.  They are a variety of sizes from a medium shrub to 15 foot tall and 20 foot wide.  I have rarely seen a few hazelnuts but most years there aren't any.  I would like to know what if anything I could do to produce better yields.  
 
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J Johnson wrote:Here is SW Missouri, our white tailed buddies just love hazelnuts.  Of course they have tons (literally) of acorns and hickory nuts to feast on.  Around here Walnuts tend to be a squirrel thing.  Be well.  Jim Johnson



J, I'm here in central VA, so probably the same growing zone as you.  7B?  I saw in the description that hazelnuts don't like hot temps, but I'm sure you get some prolonged hot weather where you are.  You are not having any issues with growing the hazelnuts?  Do you grow them as an understory tree?  I wonder if there are certain varieties that are more heat tolerant (asking if anybody knows)?
 
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Squirrels getting greedy? You have a cat deficiency!
 
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I believe with us that the hazel can self coppice. We have trees down by the river at the bottom of our plot that are probably centuries old, the inner stems are crowded out as the new shoots grow on the outside. They have certainly not been managed in 50 years. They are part of one of my Zone 5 areas.



This stool is about 5 ft across and forms a ring with wood sorrel, wood anenome and herb robert growing in the sheltered middle where they are protected from grazing animals. It makes one wish to be eight years old again - it would make an excellent secret den!
 
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I've got two dogs -- a livestock guardian dog, and a Rat Terrier -- and between the two of them, I have zero problems with squirrels, deer, raccoons, etc.  LGD's will wander if you don't have good fences, not just to roam, but because they were bred to protect large areas.  The Rat Terrier is pretty good about staying close to home.
 
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This article is very timely. I have just made the incredibly hard decision to get out of cattle and I am looking for something to put in my 50 acres of pasture. You mentioned growing them for lumber. Approximately how many years before they are a profitable size to cut?

I really enjoyed this article it is easy to understand and very complete. Thank you
 
Kathleen Sanderson
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Saralee Couchoud wrote:This article is very timely. I have just made the incredibly hard decision to get out of cattle and I am looking for something to put in my 50 acres of pasture. You mentioned growing them for lumber. Approximately how many years before they are a profitable size to cut?

I really enjoyed this article it is easy to understand and very complete. Thank you



I'm surprised that lumber was mentioned as a possible use for hazelnut trees.  The wood does have uses, but they are shrub to small tree size; I don't think you would get much lumber from them.  A better tree to plant for lumber would be black walnut, which is very valuable.  Some of the other nut trees also make good lumber trees.  
 
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If hazel isn't coppiced it will grow as a standard tree. When I described wanting to grow "hazel shrubs" to my dad he was confused as the hazels by his house are all over 30 feet tall. I expect that is a decades-long goal though.
 
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Myron Platte wrote:Squirrels getting greedy? You have a cat deficiency!


Our fat lazy cat sat and watched a squirrel strip our tree this year. This is the first year we've had squirrels discover our hazels. I'll need to come up with a better system next year. More cats!
 
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whoa, that's a seriously impressive write-up to start the thread! Thank you so much for sharing that.
 
Kathleen Sanderson
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Mark Brunnr wrote:If hazel isn't coppiced it will grow as a standard tree. When I described wanting to grow "hazel shrubs" to my dad he was confused as the hazels by his house are all over 30 feet tall. I expect that is a decades-long goal though.



Some hazels will grow as small standard trees (by 'small,' I mean, they aren't going to get to timber sized trees).  Many, however, do stay shrub sized, especially many of the wild ones.  

 
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Skandi Rogers wrote:Brunswick Stew

Sounds like some of you need some recipes! if you can't eat nuts eat the squirrels and hope for some nutty flavours?



Ahahaha! I enjoyed that!

Great article too, however...NUTS! Or rather no nuts as my area will not support hazelnuts. I am sad now...
 
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Just adding this link for those maybe interested in having your batches of picked hazelnuts shelled by a small public/private enterprise.  Located in Ashland, WI, but I think they are okay with receiving shipments....?  Worth a look.

http://www.midwesthazelnuts.org/processing-accelerator.html

 
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Carol Manda wrote:This is the most information about hazelnut trees/shrubs that I have ever seen in one place! I planted one 15" tall sapling in 2015 and now it is about 12' tall. The pollen catkins were strikingly abundant this late winter, but I have yet to see a nut on that bush!  What is most interesting in your article is the information about coppicing. I have pruned my shrubs and small trees and used the prunings for beanpoles, etc. but have only cut shrubs to the ground in an attempt to do away with them! (I am trying to eliminate one viburnum opulus which is vastly overgrown and in a terrible spot. It doesn't want to die, even after I dug around the roots and hacked at them) With coppicing, does the entire shrub need to be cut, and how much stem do I leave above the crown? I only have the one hazel and do like how it looks much of the year until the Japanese beetles have their way with it. Space is at a premium in my small yard! What if I cut a few large branches each year, like on a 3-year renewal cycle?



did you ever find out why it does not produce any nuts?
 
Rich Ard
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craig howard wrote: I put in over 100 hazelnut bushes 3, 4 and 5 years ago.
They didn't all survive so I have about 96.
Some do really well, start producing the third year and even better the forth.

One is large and produces many now. It was the first to produce at 3 years.
One is small and produced many the 3rd year.
Most, big or small, don't produce much or anything at all.
Several medium size with medium crop.

Is it possible to move the good ones?
Do they transplant well after they are over 4 years old.




do you have any idea what factors are resulting in only some of them producing any nuts?
 
Nancy Reading
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Rich Ard wrote:

Carol Manda wrote:I only have the one hazel and do like how it looks much of the year until the Japanese beetles have their way with it. Space is at a premium in my small yard! What if I cut a few large branches each year, like on a 3-year renewal cycle?



did you ever find out why it does not produce any nuts?



My guess is that it will be because she only has one hazel - my understanding is that hazels are not self fertile. If hazels are native to your area, you may have hazels close enough to fetilise your bush, if not you will need at least one unrelated hazel to cross pollinate to get nuts setting.
 
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Hazelnuts are not, according to scientific literature, self-compatible. They can even rule out certain other varieties, or even A can pollinate B but B not pollinate A. There's a nice study here by Ben Nigel Heard: https://scholar.utc.edu/honors-theses/80/
As the kernels will be a product of both the mother and father tree, the variety of the mother only has some effect on the eating qualities of the nut.
A solution to the squirrel problem has been suggested by Bob Flowerdew. Make a sandpit (or similar) nearby. The squirrels will appreciate the easy stashing of their booty. When they're not looking [at night], seive out your nuts.
Some people above have raised the issue of squirrels taking apples. This may be a drought thing, I've heard birds are more likely to go for fruit if they can't access water. Maybe that applies to squirrels, so try putting water out.
 
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Nice post. Did not knew shallow ground could limit growth on Hazels, it explain my unsucces here. Will adress this next year with planty compost and mulching !
 
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