Would love to talk with you about this issue. Dunno whether I can help
as I'm in the same boat as you. No nuts...yet. Although the first year there
were a few but I whacked them in favor of putting energy into tree growth
rather than nuts.
My plantings were all done in 2012. Purchased from.....https://www.grimonut.com/index.php?p=Home
I don't see my varieties currently on his site but I spent $400/500+ for 13 trees. His trees were all layered.
They were Geneva, Grimo 186M and Slate. One died and the rest are doing just fair. Some better than
others. To be fair though, I have not been very diligent in there care i.e., zero fertilization. Even though I have
an extensive drip system, I haven't dripped them either. I have pruned every year to a tree rather than a bush.
I have usually a 45 day window for insect pressure. I use Surround WP with about 95% effectiveness.
I may be a real unobservant idiot and I'm embarrassed to say...I've don't recall ever seeing a female flower.
In fairness to me though......I have a boatload of issues with my many other crops. I will say that this year, I
have observed a huge increase in catkins (HUGE) over previous years. Normally, I am a soil testing maniac
and most usually I can do the chemistry analysis and apply as needed. This will be the year that everything
at the farm will get a major shot of ferts and minerals. Like in the next two weeks.
I also bought Grimo's book. Interesting but not much help for me.
We should talk further by phone. Would love to share anything I can with you.
Thanks for Permie URL. I read through it all. Please feel free to copy and paste
anything you wish from me to their site. Always glad to help kindred brothers and sisters.
Call anytime if you wish. We can probably cover a lot more ground.
The caliper of the canes or stems usually need to be 1 1/2 inches to 2 inches thick at the base. Once female flowers are produced then it will be 1-3 years before nut set. Sometimes nut set occurs in the second year after catkin formation. This is especially true with the American hazels. American hazelnut bushes produce much younger than the precocious and the canes are typically much smaller 1/2 inch in size with the plant will producing nuts in 3-4 years. Precocious hazels produce nuts in 3-5 years on average and produce nuts from seedling 1-3 years after the Americans do from seed. The more vigorous the plant, the sooner the yield.
But having said that, I am not sure why you or the others you contacted do not have nuts. Blaming everything on pollination is an easy go to place. I doubt it,but it is possible. I too wish I had more information to go on to give you an answer. I just have not heard that from others who have planted this strain.
Thank you for your email and best success to you with your hazelnuts.
One of my customers planted about 30 acres of hazelnuts near my farm and then moved away. That was amazing what came of that. Also there is a hazelnut breeder I met called Cecil Farris and he loved to talk about hazelnuts. He has a book that was published concerning his life long quest with hazels. He told me Kentucky, southern Indiana, and other farther south locations were not good for hazels because the flowering could occur in the middle of winter or very early spring. So the nuts do not set. He mentioned that one of his selections flowered in December. Very bad. So I think you are on to something. I have visited a lot of plantings over the years but really what do I know about these plantings in Iowa or Nebraska. Essentially nothing as I have only really looked at the ones in Michigan and some of those were planted over 60 years ago and then abandoned. Probably over time I will know more as in the last 2 years we have sold a lot of hazels and some are very big plantings. Most are from the northern states but a few in Illinois. Wait and see I guess.
Enjoyed your comments. I will check some of our older customers this winter and see what is any anecdotal evidence I can find. I know out west in dry hot climates can be a problem. I started a planting this last fall with fuzzy stemmed selections which I believe may be more drought and heat tolerant. The New Mexico attempts did not work
"I am sorry, but I don’t have an answer to your question. You are the
farthest south of anyone I know of planting hybrid hazels. Clifford
England of England’s Orchard and Nursery (Kentucky) has hazels, but as
far as I know, they are all European, not hybrids (and European hazels
are adapted to areas ranging from Siberia to Turkey). Most of the
people I know who are planting hybrid hazels are in Wisconsin and
Minnesota. I tell people, “hazels are for people too far north for
chestnuts.” Even people in the southern third of MN and WI should be
planting chestnuts, not hazels, if they are for commercial purposes
rather than personal use.
One option you could consider is to try some of the “blight immune”
European hazels out of Oregon, New Jersey, Nebraska, and Ontario.
Those don’t usually stand up to the multiple strains of blight found
in Iowa, but when they are planted in places like Michigan, New York,
and New Jersey, they seem to do all right, at least so far. Their nut
size and quality may be better than the hybrids, too.
You said you may be involved with a “more substantial” planting of
hazels in the future. If, by this, you mean a commercial endeavor, I
would strongly advise against this, even if you know you are planting
hazels that would be very productive. I don’t know of anyone outside
of Oregon who has done anything but lose money on hazels. The Midwest
Hazel Cooperative says their break-even price for hazels is around $4
per pound. You can buy high-quality hazels on the world market for 60
cents per pound. You can’t compete with that on a commercial scale.
In contrast, I made over $9000 per acre on chestnuts this fall, and I
didn’t even have to harvest them—my customers did almost all the
harvesting for me, then they paid me for what they harvested."
"Something has occurred to me…hazels require cross pollination to set
nuts, as you know. Many seedling nut trees, like chestnuts, will
pollenize any other chestnut trees except for themselves and clones of
themselves. Hazels are a little bit more picky. It seems their
pollen partners need to be not too closely related. Full siblings,
and sometimes even half siblings can be too closely related to be
compatible. If you have just a few plants and if they came from the
same parentage, then cross pollination may be the problem. You could
easily test this by adding another plant or two that have different
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