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How to Build Your Own Chicken

 
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Many of us in the homestead movement have realized that our dependence upon commercial hatcheries for our broiler chicks is a weakness in our sustainable food chain.  Our best defense is to decentralize it by breeding, raising, and processing our own livestock and to resist any attempts to stop us from doing so.

The most popular broiler raised by farmers, small and large, is the Cornish Rock; also known as the Cornish Cross.  This hybrid has been refined over the decades to meet the needs of the poultry industry.  Given that it is a hybrid, it does not lend itself to breeding a Cornish Rock rooster to a Cornish Rock hen to produce Cornish Rock offspring.

There are a lot of opportunities for farmers and homesteaders to develop their own poultry breeds and strains.  In brief, the key is to make a list of goals and desired traits and then select one of the breeding programs described in this video:



In addition to the strategies described in the video, devising an ethical breeding program can yield the greatest overall benefits.  An ethical breeding program is one that is designed to promote the health and welfare of the animals being bred, while also minimizing any negative impacts on the environment or other animals. Ethical breeding programs prioritize the well-being of the animals and strive to minimize any negative effects on genetic diversity or other aspects of the population.

Some key components of an ethical breeding program may include:

  • Maintaining genetic diversity: Ethical breeding programs work to maintain genetic diversity within the population, in order to reduce the risk of genetic issues that can arise from inbreeding or other breeding practices.


  • Ensuring animal welfare: Ethical breeding programs prioritize the health and well-being of the animals being bred, providing them with appropriate housing, nutrition, and veterinary care as needed.


  • Minimizing negative impacts: Ethical breeding programs work to minimize any negative impacts on the environment or other animals, through responsible breeding practices and appropriate management of the population.


  • Transparency: Ethical breeding programs are transparent about their practices and outcomes, sharing information with other breeders and interested parties in order to promote the development of best practices and the overall well-being of the animals being bred.


  • Ultimately, the goal of an ethical breeding program is to promote the health and welfare of the animals being bred, while also ensuring the long-term sustainability of the population and minimizing any negative impacts on the environment or other animals.

    Here’s a few traits that I would look for in my breed and resulting strains:

    1.  Rapid growth rate

    2.  Abundant breast meat

    3.  Four legs and no wings  (I can dream!)

    4.  Calm and friendly demeanor

    5.  Heat and cold tolerant

    6.  Hard feathers for repelling rain and snow

    7.  Predator resistant: Smells and sees predators at a distance, alerts, and runs for cover.  Feather colors and patterns provide good camouflage.

    Other traits could be dependent upon your goals.  Perhaps, you want an SUV chicken that free ranges, lays eggs in the coop, and is meaty enough to make a good stewer when she is too old to lay eggs.

    For pastured poultry (raised in movable pens or shelters on grass), I'd start by crossing a White Plymouth Rock rooster with a dozen or so Cornish hens to create your own Cornish Rock breed.  I would also try developing the Delaware chicken by crossing a Barred Plymouth Rock rooster to New Hampshire hens.  I think that the Delaware could be an excellent utility breed for both eggs and meat.

    Another utility breed that homesteaders should consider is the German Bielefelder.  This is a very large breed that is good for meat and eggs.  It is hardy and cold tolerant.  They like to free range and do well on pasture.

    I have learned that I can co-culture layers and broilers.  I designed a coop that is low to the ground.  The Cornish Rocks do not roost, they get too large and cannot jump, but they will go inside the coop at night after a day of free ranging and foraging as long as the ramp is not too steep.  My layers are Barnevelders and they tend to head in early to roost.  The Cornish Rocks hang around and eat and drink until it's nearly dark, then they head in and find a spot on the floor to the side of the roost.  So, it is possible to forgo the Salatin chicken tractor design (often used to shelter broilers on pasture) and use a "lowrider" version of his Eggmobile type structure to house both breeds.

    I was in 4-H when I was a kid and won many blue and purple ribbons with my Red and Copper Satin rabbit breeds.  Developing your own lines is fun and fulfilling.  I recommend keeping good records.  All of my rabbits had identifying tattoos on their ears and pedigrees. With chickens, I'd maintain pedigrees and use leg bands for identification.  I suppose you could use chips, too.  Chew carefully!

    By selecting a breed and a breeding program that works best for you, you can create your own resilient, sustainable chicken breed and eliminate your dependence upon the failing, centralized food system.
     
    Steward of piddlers
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    Location: Upstate NY, Zone 5, 43 inch Avg. Rainfall
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    I have one Bielfelder hen in my mixed flock and she 'is built like a brick shithouse'.

    I can only imagined having a flock of them and developing a landrace version. It'd be an amazing project for sure.
     
    Drew Lamb
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    Timothy Norton wrote:I have one Bielfelder hen in my mixed flock and she 'is built like a brick shithouse'.

    I can only imagined having a flock of them and developing a landrace version. It'd be an amazing project for sure.



    I recently hatched some and I have 14 in the brooder right now.  8 are roosters!  These are the most solid, cold tolerant, fast growing, calm, and friendly chickens that I have ever raised.  So far, I'm pleased.  
     
    pollinator
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    Selective breeding makes sense.

    Though I confess the thread title had me thinking about Lego.


     
    Drew Lamb
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    Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Selective breeding makes sense.

    Though I confess the thread title had me thinking about Lego.




    Foghorn Lego!
     
    pollinator
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    i read about the Icelandic chicken. I have no experience but it's supposed to be a very hardy breed
     
    pollinator
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    Drew, I really would like to breed my own chickens and I realize that these great Cornish Cross cannot reproduce normally [They are way too heavy and clumsy to mount their ladies]. They are also ready in 8 weeks to go to freezer camp, and keeping them beyond that date means risking  their heart attack, long before they would be of breeding age.
    I have no idea how to start a breeding program, or which breeds to mix to get what. I cannot help that Isa browns and Cornish cross exist and a regular breeding is out or their possibility. They just do.
    Barnevelds  do indeed look gorgeous and I would love those chocolatey colored eggs... but they also take a long time to reach freezer camp size, time during which they eat and need care for watering and cleaning the coop.
    For maximum efficiency, and since they really should not be raised together [see reasoning below], the chicken farmers should decide what they are going for: meat or eggs. The "dual purpose" chickens will do both but neither as well as a dedicated breed: The Dual purpose with not be as tender as a young Cornish Cross and the Isa Brown will not be as tender, even if you only make coq au vin with them. We could debate forever the ethical side of it, and I would agree that it is more ethical to raise a chicken that has not had the normalcy bred out of them, but that ship has sailed. The ethical thing to do for my family is to bring eggs and meat to the table as humanely as possible. It is also to keep these animals that are destined to be eaten as happy as you can while you have them.
    The best chickens I've raised for eggs are the Isa Brown. I do not know if the breed has stabilized enough to reproduce true to form. I don't think it has. [It is still a hybrid].
    I have raised the Cornish Cross successfully. They are bred solely for meat production, and when they are just baby chicks, they are as inquisitive as any other baby chick. They run around and are just as friendly, but there are some very specific things a person must do to raise them successfully:
    1/*The coop must be kept very clean: Because once they are close to mature they will not roost, they will lay down, and they do poop a lot more than other breeds. Laying down and pooping is not conducive to cleanliness! So change their litter more often.
    2/* You must have a way to cover their feed through in the evening so they do not eat themselves to death in less that 8 weeks!
    3/* Exercise is good for them, So raise their trough so they have to stand to partake. Same thing with their water.
    4/* No not attempt to keep them beyond 8 weeks: One, they will not grow much larger, but perhaps just fatter. Two, they will eat you out of house and home: This is a breed that will absolutely not forage: Every ounce of meat comes from the feed you give them.
    The best that you can do, once they are at your home, is to treat them kindly and make them happy. You will be rewarded with a very meaty carcass with very little fat if you do it right.
    Because of 1 and 2, I would not raise them with egg layers: they have different needs, even different diets, and since they will not roost, they may very well bed under the roosts, in which case they will soon be covered in excrement. Also, covering their trough can't be achieved if your layers are there: Layers want and need to have food during all their wake hours.

    I have raised Isa Browns and they are everything you say... but they are also hybrids, which means that they will not breed true to form, and yes, they will age more quickly. When it is time for them to go to freezer camp, I will make soups and broth. I make a rotation: One year, I raise Peking ducks and Cornish cross [separately]. The next 2 years, I raise Isa Browns, starting in the late fall.
    I butcher my own because there are so few place to take them to that will do a decent job. I've taken them to a butchering place and was not happy with how rough they were with my birds.
    The butchering must be done humanely, and that includes isolating them from the sight of their fellow chickens when they are being butchered.
    If you have treated them humanely they will not squawk or make a sound when you dispatch them. It will be over in a few seconds.
     
    pollinator
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    I’m slowly working on this with our chickens. We started with Buff Orpingtons for meat and eggs. We went with them because they’re pretty big, dont fly much, they’re friendly, they go broody regularly, and they tolerate winter pretty well.

    Then we added in Jubilee Orpingtons for some color diversity.

    In spring, I would like to add in Swedish Flower Chickens for their hardiness, foraging ability, broodiness and genetic diversity.

    Overall, I want chickens that are big enough to be worthwhile eating, lay a lot of eggs, handle cold and snow well, have diverse color patterns for camouflage and brood chicks regularly and well. And preferably chickens that arent mean or overly aggressive with people.
     
    I agree. Here's the link: http://stoves2.com
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