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Wind Protection

 
Posts: 3
Location: Negaunee, Michigan
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We live in the UP of Michigan and are about 1000 ft above Lake Superior. Our property is mostly trees but when we get some strong winds I worry about our homestead, we have already had some damage from winds from poor planning from previous owners of the property... like 2x2 posts (an odd size for sure) for a wind fence next to our gas meter.

The trees don't do much for wind protection and we have several garden beds and a few ground trellises for climbers.

Any recommendations? I know fences are an option but not quite sure we want to go that route.

I also noticed some trees swaying a lot more than the others and not sure if I should be concerned.
 
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Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
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Hi Kristen,
Welcome to Permies.  I am familiar with the area you are.  Wind will develop a "lift" and can increase speed.  The amount of sway will depend on the type of tree, and density of the trees. I suggest that you do a tree audit and look at which ones are likely to sheer off or come down in high winds.  Our guide for our trees is that they need to be 1.5 times the maximum height away from the house.  Under-story planting can slow the wind speed through the trees.
I am not sure of the rules where you are, but those you identify as potentially dangerous, and are within the restricted area, remove or decrease the height.
Yes, 2 X 2 is an odd size. It sounds like they used garden stakes.

In strong winds, solid fences will be pushed over.  Assuming you have wooden poles available, try junk pole fences. https://permies.com/t/junkpole  They will slow the wind and provide some protection.  The best part is the cost.
Best wishes for your gardens and your homestead journey.
 
Posts: 152
Location: Southern Colorado, 6300', zone 6a, 16" precipitation
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Siberian pea shrubs sound perfect for you. They grow fast, fix nitrogen, love cold weather, and chickens can eat the pea pods. However, if you want a really fast solution, make a wood wall of discarded brush around your garden. Getting ahold of brush is easy, and the matrix of sticks slows the wind without blowing over. Also, it's a great habitat for birds and animals. You can do both. Put in a wood wall while you wait on the pea shrubs to grow.
 
Posts: 610
Location: Stone Garden Farm Richfield Twp., Ohio
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Something I recommend for anyone in cooler/colder/windier climes, is to plant yew bushes as a wind break. Keep them trimmed back somewhat every year and they form a very think hedge that stays full needled all year. They will grow as tall as you let them. We have them around our house as a windbreak and they do a great job holding off the Winter winds. Set them back a bit from your gardens and they will do the same. If you were going to use them as a pasture shield, I'd read a bit about possible toxicity to animals who might chew on them.

~One other benefit to planting yews is that you can cut long (5 or 6+ ft) staves and put them under cover for a few years. When dry, they can be made into excellent bows. If there is ever an economic collapse, you'd have ready to go hunting tools or trade goods. Or you might even develop a bow stave business before the interesting times happen.
 
pollinator
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Location: RRV of da Nort, USA
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Can you give us some idea of the size of your property and how far from the house the property lines run?   A good windbreak will take some time to establish, but can be well worth it not only for your future comfort on the location but for resale as well.  One of many good sources of information on windbreak design can be found here

https://www.ndsu.edu/pubweb/chiwonlee/plsc211/student%20papers/articles09/nicole%20miles/


A document more specific to Michigan can be found here --  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/cp5a-field-windbreaks  -- but please note this is for adhering to a Conservation Reserve Enhancement Program and is written with rules and regulations in mind.  Just ignore that aspect of the information if you are looking more for design advice.

Windbreaks seem pretty crucial for windy, exposed areas like those found in the Great Plains states.  My favorite examples exist in the Dakotas which were installed in response to the dust bowl era of 1930s.  The cartoon drawing of a wind-break in the first weblink above illustrates the design principle:  Dense, stock shrubs and short trees as the first layer the wind will encounter.  Inside of that, taller trees that eventually will shade out the understory and create a mini forest.  Siberian pea, lilac, and honeysuckle commonly were used in the first layer followed by elm, ash, cottonwood and oak and conifers of your choice.  The photo below is from this link for more details:

https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/ND-01-RM3


The flora of your region will help to determine what will do best in your windbreak.  More recently, the use of edible berries as a shrub species in shelterbelts has caught on more....Aronia, Serviceberry, Nannyberry, to name just a few.  Hope this helps!
Shelterbelt.jpg
[Thumbnail for Shelterbelt.jpg]
 
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building woodworking homestead
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John has the exact idea as I have & some of the information needed. My suggestion is to talk to your conservation district.

They will design a wind break to fit your exact needs. If your property is too small, they will likely do a two or three row wind break. 2 row has deciduous trees on the outside and conifers on the inside. A 3 row is just adding bushes on the outside & the deciduous in the middle. If you have enough room, a 5 - 7 row break is most ideal.

The other thing that Districts generally do is have an annual tree & bush sale. The cost for these plants are significantly less than what a big box store would give you and the plants are in far better condition.

Wind breaks are great! Even in wooded country like yours.

Hoppy
 
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