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root cellar ventilation question

 
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Looking for advice on root cellar venting.  Building a 10x10 concrete & concrete block root cellar that’ll be fully underground except for the door.  Have all the walls up, French drain installed around the perimeter and partially backfilled.  Will be building forms for a cement roof in a few days, then pouring the roof, building a door and finishing backfilling.  My question concerns ventilation.  Will be installing a vent vertically through the roof in one corner (it’ll probably end up being about 4-5’ tall) and on the opposite corner I have a hole for the intake vent just above the floor.  It’ll take apx. 10’ of pipe (for the intake vent), run horizontally through the backfill, to reach daylight.  Would it effect the ventilation if I curved the intake vent 45º or 90º either horizontally or vertically to reach daylight sooner?  
Thanks!
 
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From https://naturallylillys.wordpress.com/2015/11/23/the-needs-of-a-root-cellar-basics-of-how-they-work/#:~:text=The%20two%20vents%20should%20be,possible%20into%20your%20root%20cellar.
"It is also important to keep in mind that hot air rises and cool air sinks.
This is why you need to put a vent near the top of your root cellar space for that hot air to escape.
You also need a vent placed near the bottom of your cellar space; this would be to allow the cooler air to enter.
The two vents should be on opposite side of your cellar space to allow for the maximum airflow.
Most importantly, remember to open up those vents overnight to allow the coolest air possible into your root cellar.
If your ventilation is set up right, you will be able to use it to control your humidity and temperature levels as well as maintaining proper air circulation."
 
Leon Werdinger
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Thanks for your reply.  Again, my specific question it'd be ok to have a bend in the intake vent.
 
John C Daley
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your question is not clear, surely a straight pipe is the shortest route?
 
Leon Werdinger
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There might be some advantages to having a bend that have to do with avoiding some obstacles, but what I'm trying to figure out if having a 45º or 90º bend in the intake vent pipe will have any negative effect on the flow of the ventilation air.  Thanks.
 
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When constructing a root cellar, proper ventilation is crucial to maintaining an optimal environment for storing vegetables and other produce. Your plan to install a vertical vent through the roof and an intake vent is an excellent approach. However, when it comes to the design of the intake vent, particularly the possibility of curving it at 45° or 90°, it’s essential to consider how this may impact airflow.

Curving the intake vent can affect its efficiency. Ideally, the vent should have a straight path to minimize resistance and ensure good airflow into the root cellar. A bend can create pressure loss, which may reduce the effectiveness of the ventilation system. If space limitations necessitate a curve, a 45° angle is preferable over a 90° angle, as it allows for smoother airflow and less resistance.

In addition to the angles, ensure that the diameter of the vent is appropriate for the volume of air that needs to flow into the cellar. A larger diameter may help counteract the effects of any bends in the piping, promoting better airflow. It’s also wise to consider incorporating a screened vent at the intake to prevent moisture and debris from entering the cellar, which can help maintain the desired humidity levels while allowing for proper air exchange.

Finally, think about the thermal dynamics within your root cellar. The taller vent through the roof will assist with natural ventilation, as warm air rises. Having an appropriately sized and well-angled intake vent will help facilitate better airflow, keeping temperatures cooler and ensuring a stable environment for your stored produce. By carefully planning your ventilation system, you can optimize the conditions inside your root cellar and enhance its functionality for long-term food storage.
 
Leon Werdinger
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That's exactly what I needed to know.  Thanks!  
 
pollinator
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My root cellar came as a kit and was built by the supplier. This is how they installed the fresh air pipes (4 altogether.  
IMG_20240813_091418.jpg
[Thumbnail for IMG_20240813_091418.jpg]
 
Kaarina Kreus
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Here you can see the exhaust pipe
IMG_20240813_140806.jpg
[Thumbnail for IMG_20240813_140806.jpg]
 
Kaarina Kreus
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The fresh air pipes run for 30 feet undergroud to stabilise the air temperature. In the winter the air can be freezing and in the summer hot.
IMG_20240813_141328.jpg
[Thumbnail for IMG_20240813_141328.jpg]
 
John C Daley
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Kaarina, can you include more photos of the actual unit please?
 
Leon Werdinger
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Nice.  That's more ventilation than mine will have.  I just have one 3" diameter intake and one 3" diameter outtake.  
 
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I can't tell for sure what the right way is.  But I grew up around a total of 8 root cellars,(ours, friend, grandparents)  All of them the vent went right out of the center of the roof and straight up.  Pipe size for it was 4 to 6 inch if pipe.  The rest were boxed 1x6 or boxed 2x8.  Most had a rain cap and a screen.  But 2 ran for decades with an open square box and no screen.
 
Kaarina Kreus
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It is a prefabricated thing weighed 10.000 pounds. We did the foundation ourselves.
IMG_20240813_142119.jpg
[Thumbnail for IMG_20240813_142119.jpg]
IMG_20240813_100916.jpg
[Thumbnail for IMG_20240813_100916.jpg]
 
Kaarina Kreus
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It was brought by a crane (only have videos of that)
Dropped on the foundation. Insulated and then we heaped lots of soil around it.
Bedrock was 5 feet deep so partly it had to be above ground.
IMG_20240812_200522.jpg
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IMG_20240813_081831.jpg
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IMG_20240919_143355.jpg
final result
final result
 
Kaarina Kreus
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This is the footprint. 83 square feet.
XRecorder_Edited_25102024_082449.jpg
[Thumbnail for XRecorder_Edited_25102024_082449.jpg]
 
pollinator
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Kaarina, I really love the 2 doors system. If and when I build one, I'd like to use a septic tank, simply because it is pre-built and not terribly expensive, but I really would like to have 2 doors, like yours. It creates an entryway, which I believe could be put to good use for your coldest crops, like sunchokes or carrots perhaps.
I would love to be able to put it under the deck, as that would already give me the roof, but how would I slide a septic tank under a deck? I wish I had thought of that *before* we built the deck. Now, since we have supporting posts every 4 ft. in bot directions, it would have to be a long hallway, and I don't want to mess with the structural integrity of the deck by digging close to those posts either... [I believe they are only 4 ft in the ground, so... structural integrity will be a problem if I go that route].
Building under the deck would have the advantage  of proximity to the house, maybe even one common wall that could be breached, with perhaps an easier way to regulate the temperature?
Back to the drawing board.
 
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