Please be patient with my knowledge of the subject and if I use any improper terms. Any and all help is highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Most fruit trees bear more and better fruit if there is more than one variety.
Some varieties can be self-fruitful and don't need anything. They'll make fruit all by themselves.
The nursery catalogs are pretty good about telling you who needs what. You often have to pay attention to who makes pollen when, because one variety might make lots of pollen, but so early, it does no good for the other variety.
This is all the best case scenario, with named true varieties. If you grow your own from seed or work with uncertain varieties, it's all a crapshoot. But it's fun and exciting. If you plant enough stuff, with enough variety, you'll get fruit.
Here's how you tell with kiwis: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/tell-gender-kiwi-plant-74507.html (similar in hardy kiwi)
It's a process. Welcome to the learning curve.
Troy Rhodes wrote:Most fruit trees bear more and better fruit if there is more than one variety.
So what you're saying is is that it is better to have more variety rather than male vs female? If that's the case, should I just plant five or each season matching variety and hope I have males and females? I know there are the self pollinating types, but I'm more interested in the males with females, it gives me more to choose from. Thanks again in advance
Dioecious is rare: Sea berry , AMerican persimmon, kiwi, not that many others.
Also, I may have read it wrong, but can you actually cut a small branch off then root it? If so, how big does the branch have to be, and how do you root it (put it in a bucket of water?) And when is the best time to do that?
Thanks again very much!
Yip, it gets reeaally complicated. Nature's not in the business of simple, that's for sure!
John Saltveit wrote:Whip and tongue, bark, cleft grafting is done in late winter and early spring from dormant new branches.
Bud grafting or just called budding, happens in the summer (august and september mostly).
I've been wanting to learn grafting for ages, and basically just never got around to it.
I've always been told that bud grafting is a great 'beginner' technique.
That's not much use to you, as it'd be nearly a year until budding season comes around
If you're in an area with grafting workshops, I think it'd be well worth going;
there'd sure to be all sorts of learning opportunities aside from just grafting.
As John says-it depends. What plant(s) are you thinking about growing from cuttings?
Jon La Foy wrote:can you actually cut a small branch off then root it?
I haven't heard of people rooting cuttings from fruit trees, which are generally grown from pip/stone or grafted onto rootstock.
People here may have.
These are easy though:
Berries like blueberries, gooseberries, currants etc
Also: if you plant seeds from an apple, fruit from the new tree will probably be very different-that doesn't mean not good though.
this thread goes on about it at length!
Stones from fruit like peaches usually grow a new plant that's pretty much the same as it's 'parent'.