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Dale's office chair chainsaw mill.

 
Posts: 9002
Location: Victoria British Columbia-Canada
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That's right. I've come up with a way to use this office chair as a guide for my chainsaw.

 The chair has a metal plate which sits perfectly level. A piece of plywood bolted here, would allow many pieces of equipment to be held firmly and swiveled.

The pressurized piston allows it to go up or down by 6 inches.

The wheels could be used on a very smooth floor to move it along a firmly placed log.

Or, on uneven ground, the wheels could be removed and instead a smooth piece of plywood attached to the feet. This would be slid along an extension ladder which is laid down as rails.

I don't imagine using this to do fine woodworking. Instead, I will use it to cut thick cants for future processing.

That's it for now. I've got the basic concept and I will bang it together soon.
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Posts: 296
Location: Carbon Hill, AL
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Pretty nice. A few sticks of angle iron could also be tacked together to form a rough guide for those caster wheels to ride in.

 
pollinator
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Location: Western Washington
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Okay, so if you're NOT DALE and you don't feel 100 percent comfortable doing this. You probably shouldn't use your office chair as a chainsaw mill.


Dale,

Awsome. Just, Awesome.
 
Dale Hodgins
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Thank you Landon.

 If the leg of the chair is mounted horizontally it turns the chainsaw into a chopsaw.

This could be very handy for the  processing of firewood or for timber framing. 

On a double swivel, you have a mitre saw.
............. edit....
Make a mobile chopsaw by attaching two pieces of  2x10 in an L-shape, as when building a corner.

Mount the leg of the chair onto the 2x10s and the saw would be mobile and could be carried to a big squared timber, held in place and used to make a nice square cut.
 
Dale Hodgins
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I used this system twice, just to prove to myself that it could be done. I don't have a suitably smooth piece of concrete at my disposal.

I have found that for pieces less than 6 feet long, I can do a pretty good job with a free hand cut. After a slab is cut, I run the saw along it, with the saw barely tilted, so that I am able to plane off any defects.

Thick slabs change dimension as they dry, so there is no point in going for a super smooth finish. Further working is required once the wood is dry.
 
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