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Dale's instant workshop

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I started a house moving job last week, and in the basement and shed, found a variety of tools. There are chisels, gouges, nuts, bolts, squares, allen keys, hooks, pulleys, and many other little things. Most valuable were the vices. I got seven of them in a variety of sizes. The shed yielded an electric lawnmower and a cast iron Beaver table saw.

This is a sampling. These items are going into the cottage. I've decided to make a little workshop there, due to this windfall.
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Some of the vices are high quality. If a man is going to have many vices, this is the way to go.

The last one was built into a bench that had seen better days.
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I am sure you are aware of it, but here are a few manuals for beaver saws:

3200

1200

3200

I could not find anything 2200 and that looks like what you have but those might help anyways.

My advice is to make sure there is no play in the arbor, or bad bearings and then get the blade set dead on square with the miter slots. Then set the fence parallel to the miter slots. I made a simple jig for my saw. I just cut a piece of hardwood to fit perfectly in the miter slot, then attached a cheap dial indicator to it. It made getting things set perfect really easy.

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The arbor seems nice and tight. The motor is quite large for a half horse model. I hope that means it will have plenty of flywheel effect.

My cordless electric chainsaw has a 1.2 horsepower motor. I will try to adapt it to run several belt driven tools. This would probably be the world's first cordless electric Beaver tablesaw.
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HP numbers on electric motors are just about worthless. Look at the amps. for example my jointer says it is 1 hp, but it pulls 18 amps. this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/?tag=hydsma-20&hvadid=48516665931&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5150261651330570144&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&ref=pd_sl_611yrvfily_e router says it is 2.25 hp but it is rated at 12 amps. I never pay attention to hp ratings anymore.
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There's 745 watts in one horsepower. Your motor is almost 3 hp.

The router is about 1.9 hp.

Now that I have a good start on a shop, I'm looking for other stuff. I'll build a work table and grab a free dresser or two.

I took some good detail shots of the home built vise. A pretty simple build.
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More
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I just paid $30 for this old lathe and 8 knives. They are good quality machine steel. It was advertised for $60. I think I've done well.

It's on a table that's worth $30.
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Congratulations, Dale, on your house-moving finds. Very nice useful things.


Dale Hodgins wrote:My cordless electric chainsaw has a 1.2 horsepower motor. I will try to adapt it to run several belt driven tools. This would probably be the world's first cordless electric Beaver tablesaw.


I think this is a great idea. Hope you post pics once you've made the adaptation.
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Dale Hodgins wrote:I just paid $30 for this old lathe and 8 knives. They are good quality machine steel. It was advertised for $60. I think I've done well.

It's on a table that's worth $30.




you have a high quality piece of equipment there Dale
Delta/Milwaukee is top of the line
great find

Mike
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I will Joel. I am know to post the odd photo.
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That's good news Mike. My last experience with a lathe was in 1978. Grade 8 shop class.
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The lathe works. Here's a few more pictures.
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If you look around on line you might find a face plate or two for turning bowels and plates that will fit your machine

Mike
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There is a threaded bar on the end,  which would make a great spot for turning bowls.
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 I gave it a good run yesterday. It worked pretty well,  turning these bowls. In the time it took to use the lathe,  I could have easily carved out the wet burls with hand tools.
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 I hit the mother load of apple burls,  the day before buying the lathe.
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 I tried using the lathe without the belt and motor hooked up. When my friend spun it by hand, I was able to do a pretty good job, using the cordless chainsaw instead of gouges.
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 I'm going to make a very simple lathe for using at my property. The wood will be spun quite slowly using a highly geared cordless electric drill. The chainsaw will chew away the high spots as the piece rotates.
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Nice old lathe there! I'm gonna have to start driving around with mine in the back now, in case I get a turning itch!

Are there any other turners here that you know of?
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OMG I just found about Yarn Bowls a.k.a. knitting bowls smaller that the bowl i grab when I want ice cream see link below :


http://www.crafthackers.com/yarn-bowls/


It takes me about 2.5 hours to crank one out , I should be able to get it down to under an hour with a crapy lathe !

Lots out there for as much as the traffic will bear $35- $50 U.S.D. Big AL
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Nice Al!
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Dale Hodgins wrote: a cast iron Beaver table saw.
I've decided to make a little workshop there, due to this windfall.



Dale, that old table saw has features you can't find on today's saws, it looks to have a rack and pinion adjustment on the fence, something that the old atlas/craftsman saws did, makes them a pleasure to use.  Also, forrest makes 8" combo blades that work like a dream on those old saws, if you look at the old B&W Fine Woodworking magazines, you see lots of them before the advertising money required everything to be bigger and new.

That lathe is a great lathe, probably has a #1 morse taper which is common and a 34/16 threaded spindle which is also common and available.   Those tools are cheap chinese imports and while serviceable will not hold their edge long.   Quality tools sharpened correctly, turning a bowl should be much faster than carving one, there are lots of online plans to make a wolverine style sharpening setup for a grinder, makes keeping them sharp easy and fast.

Now you just need to luck into a good bandsaw and you are set!
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