Heaps of theory that gives one a lot to ponder, especially on the first reading. This time through, I was especially struck by the admonition to provide redundancy in the essential functions needed to support the forest garden. For me, that means doubling and tripling up on pollinator plants and parasite habitat. Probably more nitrogen-fixing can't hurt either. And shade. Here in the high mountain desert, is too much shade possible?
I really needed to reread the section on anchoring design, I had forgotten the emphasis on predator habitat. As I learn more about natural predators to the codling moth, building good habitat is going to be critical and I need to build it into a continuous improvement program here. As if to reinforce this idea, OSU's integrated pest management research outfit has a
summary of codling moth predators and it says, among other useful points, "The most important codling moth predator species are Neuroptera, Thysanura, and Heteroptera, although some Coleoptera (like coccinelids and pentatomids) also can have an important impact on codling moth population levels. All these predators are very generalist, so the impact on codling moth population will depend greatly on the relative availability of other food sources." If I want them, I have to make sure the other food sources are present in abundance.
For those of you anxious to DO SOMETHING with all this theory, and for those of you feeling overwhelmed with where to start, rest easy: there are worksheets to help figure out how to fit plants into niches. If you want to jump ahead (they are mostly referenced in Volume 2), Jacke and Toensmeier have them on a
website. They will start to make sense now even though you are jumping ahead.
I tend to look at worksheets like these as examples of how to organize my thoughts, and then proceed off in my somewhat lazy, misguided direction. The desired species niche analysis (Worksheet 1) has a lot of boxes to fill in, in the interest of due diligence and completed staff work --the kind of detail that would be extremely useful as you are getting to know plants. So for planning my cider
apple guilds, I made an abbreviated version that I thought I'd throw up here for your inspection. I'm not saying you
should use my format. In fact, just the opposite. Heck, I even invented a category in the layers that isn't a layer, so don't copy me! It works for me, and that's who it's for.
I think by reading this chapter, understanding your own site and getting some basic plant knowledge, you can come up with a much better version for yourself. But I do think building your own database of plants is an extremely useful exercise--especially if you are new to
gardening or taxonomy. Just understanding that dill, fennel, lovage, parsley, carrot, and angelica are all in the same plant family and what that means (happy
bees) and what it doesn't mean (you can choose from annuals, biennials, even perennials; some have a
root yield, some aren't usually grown for
roots but could be like Hamburg parsley) gives you so many more options in plant selection. I don't even list plants that I know won't grow in my climate, but I do consult the resources on Toensmeier's
website and especially his links to
Useful Plant Profiles when I am working on my database.
I'm a spreadsheet person. If I hated computers, the same thing could be done on colored index
cards. In fact, there might be a huge value to doing it that way, so you could sort your holy
cards visually into guilds. That would be cool. If we ever get to Volume 2, I'm sure we'll talk much more about this. But some of us are very
concrete action oriented learners and I thought I'd throw this up as a way to start working with the theory right away.
(For those of you who learn best by working through all the theory in an orderly fashion THEN proceeding to action, just ignore this bit as an irrelevant rant.)
And on another point: what did you all think of the distinctions between guilds and polycultures?