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Rocket stove heater?  RSS feed

 
Cory Dodds
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Very first forum I've ever registered on. I apologize in advance if I have missed this topic or am posting it in the wrong place.
I came across rocket stoves by chance.
Said to myself "I can do that" and set out to build a rocket heater. What I have built works great as a stove. Draws great. The issue I've run into is when I put a top on it. It's does ok until the fire gets nice and hot. Need it to draw great though.
I plan to place this in my house and vent it out of my traditional brick and mortar fireplace, once I get it working properly. Please, if you'll be so kind, look at what I've got and tell me if you see an immediate problem.
I know I'm going to get scolded for not reading the first book, or having a clue as to what I'm doing before attacking this but that's OK. Bring it
Thanks!
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allen lumley
pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
58
books fungi hugelkultur solar wofati woodworking
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Cory Dodds : Welcome to Permies.com ,and our sister site Richsoil.com, with ~35,000 Fellow Members~ Word-wide, you can
come here 24 / 7 to talk to someone who wants to talk about what you want to talk about !


Actually there is Sooo much wrong with your build that it can serve as a warning to your Future Fellow Members who try to follow along !

Besides getting "The Book" by going to rocketstoves.com to Download your copy of the brand new 3rd edition of " rocket mass heaters " you will

also need to spend some time Googleing a few topics 1) High Temperature Hydrogen Attack to find out why " METAL IS DOOMED " !

Also Read up on stack effect and whole house stack effect, this is not a thought exercise you will need to understand this topic to create any kind of wood stove
that will heat and not fill you house with smoke !

Due to the Extreme combustion (and re-burn ) temperatures of Your well made rocket mass heater RMH ~1400 ºƒ~ the iron or steel components will fail-
The piece of black Iron stove pie that forms the Outside wall of the Heat riser will certainly fail within one heating season ( or not, you did not give your location)
This will cause your un-stabilized Perlite to drift away into the bowels of the Thermal Mass ! as The Temperature of the Gases in the inside column of rising
gases equalize with the temperature of the gases within your barrel the gas flow will stall and you will have extreme smoke back From the '' Feed Tube "

As soon as the Barrel goes over the Heat Riser the Final Vertical Chimney MUST go up ! This is a great diagnostic aid! -With an air tight Combustion core and
a well sealed barrel, the final vertical chimney will make the Rocket Burner and base Draw very well -and you will see the flames pull sideways and hear your
Rockets Roar !


This is a very important step as if later you can not get a good draft through your Horizontal piping of your Thermal Mass you already know that the problem
is not in your Rocket Burner base!

Regarding your plan to use an existing fire place/chimney - I would recommend that you hire a professional '' Chimney Sweep '' to examine the condition of
the Chimney and the Chimney flue tile ! If it passes inspection you may be able to find a thimble built into the chimney about 7 feet off of the floor ! If that
thimble is there all you will have to do to use the chimney is check to make sure the Chimneys Damper closes well and tightly .

It may be possible to use new stovepipe to connect with the thimble on the inside of the chimney and then fill in around that pipe with more Perlite ensuring
that your chimney drafts well on cold days !

Future plans can include using the brick and mortar section of your fire place as additional Thermal Mass !

All the stuff below here is to make finding more information from the forum threads here at Permies.com a little easier ! Links Below :


http://www.permies.com/t/43625/introductions/Universal
http://www.permies.com/t/34193/tnk/permies-works-links-threads

Especially because you came here with only the most basic knowledge this will seem a little like drinking from a fire hose - don't worry we all started where
you are today - if there is a rocket in your future we will help make it happen ! For the good of the Craft ! Big AL

Late Note : You will need at least a 1.5'' gap between the underside of the top of your ''Barrel'' and the extreme top of the Heat Riser ! A.L.
 
Cory Dodds
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Thank you for the information!
I understand what you are saying about the steel. I live in East Texas and this is more of a proof of concept for me at this time.
This will never go inside my house until I know it is safe.

I will look into everything you have stated.
If I'm understanding you correctly, the so-so draft issue im having is because my exhaust out of the back is not going up like a chimney.
I do appreciate your time and input.
Thanks Big AL!
 
Glenn Herbert
gardener
Posts: 2257
Location: Upstate NY, zone 5
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A really good J-tube core may have enough push from the high temperature draft effect that it can run well without a chimney and open to atmosphere at the bottom outlet. However, even that is not likely to run well when you route the exhaust through a long thermal mass; a chimney will improve the draft of any RMH, but is essential for a less than perfect one.

A heavy steel J-tube will suck heat from the fire and conduct it to the air in any direction it can. This will reduce combustion temperature and efficiency.
 
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