Thanks for the reply, P. I will check out the links. In the meantime, I will quickly address some of what you wrote:
harvesting composted material and worm casting would be very difficult without modification of the typical lid
Yes, I was thinking that the top would be completely removed, but not necessarily just to harvest the nutrients... more to monitor it, and add mulch. I'm under the impression that the combination of the greywater and the mulch (chopped leaves and
hay and char) would result in a microbial rich mixture that would, as the
carbon was digested, not only not need removing often, but would instead need additions. I'm thinking of the Solviva example here. I'm not sure if you are familiar with this book.
tops of the tanks would require significant insulation to prevent freezing
Yes. I was thinking that the bins would be 3/4 full and that six inches of styrofoam would be cut and inserted into the tank, and an additional foot of foam above it. These would be sandwiched between some thin plywood on the top and plastic on the bottom and used as a hatch on top of the bins. The bins would be accessed under the greenhouse floor by another hatch (also insulated).
I was considering, if I was going the greenhouse route, that I would follow this method(a variation of which I had in my mind for a long time but was publicized in a great
Geoff Lawton video that I can't seem to find now): The greenhouse would have a small
solar panel that was used to run a fan. The intake for the fan would be at the ceiling of the greenhouse. Whenever the greenhouse was above the optimum temperature in the prime growing season, (conveniently a time when the sun is powering the panel) the thermostat would turn the fan on and suck the hot air down pipes that would be down in the earth or buried plastic water barrels and heavy stones, below the worm bins. The floor of the greenhouse would mostly be insulated, but some of this heat would be vented up under the beds so that that space was moderated during early and late winter, thus extending the shoulder seasons in the greenhouse. The greenhouse would be more of a solarium, insulated well on all sides but the glazing. In this way, and with the additions of foam insulation on the bins, I think that the there would not be an issue maintaining the system above freezing.
If 2 tanks in series are utilized the second tank would need to be installed with the inlet lower than the outlet of first tank. In order to provide a free draining 1st tank (avoiding anaerobc conditions and providing the required worm habitat) the outlet would need to be at the bottom of the tank. This would result in burying your second tank about 1 m lower than the first.
Yes. That's pretty much what I had in mind. I was also thinking that the bottom four to six inches in the tanks would be round rock covered by landscape cloth to facilitate drainage.
it would be difficult to control nutrient carry-over into the final greywater discharge to the aquifer as there is not the nutrient uptake that would be performed in a natural wetland system for example
I was under the impression that the fungal mycelia as well as the worms would facilitate adequate nutrient uptake. These beings do that as a matter of survival. I was also considering incorporating char to help absorb nutrients and further purify the water. I was thinking that the pipe dump beyond these tanks would be contained (protected) under a half barrel, which was in the middle of a deep hugul type pit that would also have char. This system would be below frost line as well. I would hope that all the
wood would absorb whatever the worms/fungal/char bins didn't. I can't imagine that the bins and the hugul trench would not be able to handle the nutrient load of the grey water. In the summer, alder
trees surrounding this pit at a slight distance would be uptaking the nutrients. These would be used to chop and drop for other projects (or perhaps chipped to mulch in the bins). I was thinking of pears and hawthorns near the pit as well.
How much land do you have where you are considering your discharge? What are the BC regulatory requirements for greywater and what are your chances of having an inspector stop by?
I have a sloped field of about 20 degrees basically sloping South, and slightly East. About 6 acres at least of land is available below this before getting near my little creek to the East or the road to the South. I do not yet know of the regulatory requirements. Although a building inspector might come by, unless he rats me out I doubt the food and sanitation inspector would come around. That said, I do not want to be polluting the groundwater. I do want to make the system adequate to do the job fully.
Interestingly the building inspector himself, I have heard rumored, has a grandfathered blackwater discharge directly into an otherwise pristine river. He doesn't have a lot of respect in the community. The entire
city of Victoria has a blackwater discharge directly into the ocean, right outside the provincial parliament buildings!
If you do decide to experiment, consider a backup/alternate disposal option should any system failure occur. Construct all parts of the system so that they can be inspected and maintained.
That would be optimum wouldn't it? But I'm not sure how to go about that when I want to have so much contained in the Earth. Hmmm. Definitely food for thought.
Anyway, now i'll check out those links, which will probably make me want to simplify my plans and shut the heck up.
Thanks huge for your input, P.