I think it is principally a case of using the resources at hand - if you have a surplus of dead pine, put them to use.
I have a red pine plantation that I helped plant as a small child, and it is seriously in need of thinning. The wood has little commercial value, but I think what is too small or deteriorated for lumber for my projects will make good hugels.
Pine does not stunt plants. Container growers on the east coast use pine sawdust as media all the time. I use pine bark as a component in my potting mixes. It DOES rob N, so they inject more to compensate. You're talking about using logs, though, I assume. In that case, no change in Ph will occur, except at the soil-wood interface, which is minimal for a log. Mixing in chipped wood would give you more pH change, but also much more N-def, and the wood will break down very quickly compared to a log.
Pine typically rots in the ground relatively quickly. Much faster than cedar, not as fast as mulberry, willow, or cottonwood. Use it!
Tristan Vitali wrote:I'd be a concerned about the potential for the allelopathic compounds more-so than the acidity issues and that might be the main reason the community generally avoids it...similar to the admonition to not use walnut or cedar in there. The whole "aromatic resins" thing ties directly to the presence of allelopathic compounds - if you can smell it strongly and it's "refreshing", more than likely it is anti-fungal and/or prevents particular plants from growing around it...at least that's my thoughts on it. If it's aged appropriately, or you're planning to grow pine-tolerant plants, it'd be a non-issue of course, but the resins from a freshly killed pine might outright kill a tomato transplant or peach tree. Might...I might be talking out my rear end here
In my area, we have just about nothing but allelopathic trees: pine, redwood and euc.
Like the OP, I don't really have much else available except for limited quantities of tan oak which I'd rather reserve for building purposes, if I ever harvest them at all.
From what I've been told by neighbors, our area has a very high soil acidity.
So, considering this and what Jim says below you, 2 questions:
1) How long would you recommend drying to mitigate the N-fixing limitation (we desperately need N-fixing).
2) We have King Bollette mushrooms that ONLY grow in pine stands; it seems they have a symbiotic relationship with pine roots: could this possibly negate/mitigate allelopathic issues?
Thanks in advance,