Cristo Balete wrote:Not sure where you are, Len, but most greenhouses, if they don't have a heating system, are about holding the heat in, from whatever source, and that means blocking the wind and not letting heat, that rises, escape. I haven't heard of roofless greenhouses because that defeats the purpose of capturing heat, unless you mean in the hot summer roof vents allow excess heat out.
Not roofless, but more of a micro climate with an insulated, heat reflective roof.
The other crucial part of light on plants is allowing ultraviolet, so if you only focus on heat, you might exclude ultraviolet, and that doesn't work for plants. Some of those corrugated plastic panels block out too much of the UV rays. A reflective north wall can be helpful, but I haven't found it to make enough difference to add that expense and maintenance to the greenhouse.
I am not sure if reflective or absorptive/radiating would be best. I would not expect to use a polished mirror finish, but just light coloured would make some difference. Cold climate green houses are designed to allow maximum UV radiation in. The roof is not expected to help keep the air temperature up so much as reduce radiation loss which is the main cause of frost. This would also help prevent the loss of some ground heat. One of the trite sayings I have heard (supposed to be based on science) is the doubling roof insulation is the same as closing a 6 foot hole in the wall. My
experience has shown that holes in the wall are less of a loss than I could have imagined. (a crude hut of logs on a windy seashore, where the slots between logs was 6inch or so, was still a good
shelter from the wind and "felt" warm)
if you are talking about a solid, dark roof, you'd end up with a carport, and that's not enough light, nor enough heat. If the ends are open,, that lets cold and and wind in. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you've described.
Siting, to reduce wind. Design, figuring out how much the ends
should be open... or how much wider they have to be than the grow area to allow seasonal sun aperture. How high would the roof need to be to let all the UV in? Floor level, can a sunken floor reduce the winds effect on the soil/floor heat loss? Even choice of type of plant placement may make some difference. It may well be worth planting extra plants on the ends to make make some sort of wind break that still allows some light through in winter. Would a PAHS style "umbrella" around the green house keep the soil warmer? Could the walls be designed in such a way as to reflect heat down rather back out the sun aperture?
People in my area used the Pit house to stay warm in the winter. This house had a 6foot hole in the roof... yet was effective even in some places with no fire (Delta area BC Canada ... 49degees north) Glass (or glazing) is magic... or maybe not so much as we think.
Really it is not a matter of where I am, but would it make sense _somewhere_. And hopefully lots of somewheres