Walker Cook Stove Plans

Hey Permies!  Lots of you have asked for plans for my Walker Masonry Cook Stove since I introduced it a few years ago.  I finally got to it!  I just finished creating complete plans and a builder's guide so you can build your own.  You can find the plans, and more about the cook stove here:

http://walkerstoves.com/walker-full-masonry-cook-stove.html






As always, thank you for the opportunity to share this with you.

Pretty cool!

I've not seen this before. From your video I really struggled to understand the path the flame is taking. I looked at your site and think this video does a good job.

Hey Matt,

Thanks for posting this.  I am not as familiar with your stoves as I would like.  I was wondering how this compares to the tiny house stove you posted about not long ago, but beyond that, my questions more generally are all in regard to your steel piece.  Do you have that same disposable steel piece in the tiny house version?  Is that a standard feature in all of your masonry stove/oven combos?  How much of a difference does the steel make, in comparison to something made of ceramic fibre board, or channeled in from your bricks?  So the channel on the floor does not get hot enough to melt or degrade?  And if not, then it's purpose of design, being metal, would also be to preheat the secondary air?

Thanks guys!  Roberto, the Tiny Cook Stove uses the same core design, but I was able to shrink the footprint of the core by using ceramic fiber board rather than the insulated fire brick.  So, the two stoves are generally the same, but the full size version has a larger firebox for more fuel capacity, and a larger oven/bell.  

The floor channel and vertical port is really the best solution I've found.  Heating up fast and hot is crucial.  However, since this stove was built, I've solved the deterioration issue by using a 309 stainless upright, sourced cheaply.  You can read more about that here.

http://walkerstoves.com/walker-pre-port-secondary-air-tube.html

Cool.  So that auto muffler piece is able to withstand the full temperatures?  like 1800 degrees?  or does that happen as the gases go around the corner, vortexing and combusing out of the fire box?

It does hold up to the temperatures at that location.  I don't know if it's because they don't reach high enough to break it down, or if it's partly due to the cooling of the incoming secondary air.  It does appear to be impervious to the conditions in there, at least so far.  I'll be sure to continue to update if it's showing signs of deterioration.

Cool Matt.  Thanks for the info.