Bryant RedHawk wrote:For those of us in the Southern States the preferred (best fruiting and heat tolerance) species is; Mysore raspberry (Rubus niveus), unlike the other commonly planted species, this one needs no winter chill to flower and fruit.
Since you already have a species more suited to more northern climates, you will need to do some sun shading during the hottest parts of the summer months.
Good luck, my experience is that the more you leave these sorts of berries to their own devices, the better they reward you.
Pruning is just like for black berries, cut the canes back in the fall, leaving around 3 feet of old cane. That way they don't turn into a "bramble patch" Like Brer Rabbit loved to live in.
Hans Quistorff wrote:Do your raspberries fruit in the spring or fall or both. I am in zone 7b but much farther north so my day length differs. Spring bearing canes fruit on the canes that grew the year before so when canes have stopped producing and there is vigorous growth of new canes the old can be removed. Late season verities produce berries at the tips of new canes in late summer and fall. To prevent rain spoilage I put a high tunnel over them and they produce until frost usually late November. The portion of the cane that bore fruit will dy back but buds will develop on the lower portion at leaf nodes and bear fruit in the spring. After covering the patch some of the spring canes would also start producing in the late fall due to a short chill period.
With your canes in the raised bead you will be able to control the runners. Keep them heavily mulched with material that will break down and feed the roots. When canes come up next to the wall or front of the bed cut the connecting root and transplant them to a new bed.
Hans Quistorff wrote:I did not answer the cane support question. Using stakes as you did is good but requires more maintenance and materials than I like to use on Qberry farm. I would recommend a steel T post on each end of a bed your size and cross strings of used bailing twine a foot to 16 inches up the post. Weave the growing canes between the cross string, when the canes reach the top then turn them horizontal and braid them along the top string. This has given me good control and if it gets too tangled when pruning out old vines I can cut the strings and start over.
For Boysenberries and Loganberries I use 2 strings, one at eye height and the other at chest height. the long canes are braided in an oval around the 2 strings after the old canes have finished fruiting and are removed. Until then the new canes are bunched with a loose tie in between the crowns.