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Lithium batteries and hydro power

 
rocket scientist
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Hi all;
For the last year, my current AGM batteries have been dying.
After stalling for ten months, they are now on generator life support!  
Even with the hydro constantly making 100 + watts, after racking up 25 amp hrs or so, the batteries fall into the ten-volt range and my inverters start shutting down.

I have been very interested in switching over to LiFe PO4 lithium batteries.
I have been dragging my feet all summer about "just doing" this.
At one point in the spring, I almost ordered the SOK batteries.
I'm sure glad that I did not!
After spending the last week seriously investigating the details.
I have come to the conclusion that Lithium batteries are not right for my system.
Not to say that it can not be done (it could) but the risk of destroying my very expensive pertinent magnet hydro is just too high.

All lithium batteries are composed of separate cells contained in a case.
Those cells are monitored and controlled by a BMS unit (battery management system) a built-in feature of all large lithium batteries.
I have now learned that when the BMS decides the battery is fully charged it disconnects from the charging source.
It will also auto disconnect for high-voltage and low-voltage, or if it malfunctions.
When using solar charging that is completely acceptable. Solar panels do not care if connected or not.
A hydro system or a wind system does care, they require a constant location to "dump" excess power.
Disconnecting a constant diversion charging source while running will send the alternator into an open circuit voltage this means the output voltage goes very high, which has the potential to melt wiring inside the unit.
At the same time once the load is removed, the hydro will go into an Overspeed condition.
The potential for a catastrophic blowout of my hydro, although low is higher than I care to worry about.

As much as I would like to upgrade to Lithium batteries...
I'm thinking I'll be in Missoula next week buying new AGMs!


 
pollinator
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi all;
For the last year, my current AGM batteries have been dying.
After stalling for ten months, they are now on generator life support!  
Even with the hydro constantly making 100 + watts, after racking up 25 amp hrs or so, the batteries fall into the ten-volt range and my inverters start shutting down.

I have been very interested in switching over to LiFe PO4 lithium batteries.
I have been dragging my feet all summer about "just doing" this.
At one point in the spring, I almost ordered the SOK batteries.
I'm sure glad that I did not!
After spending the last week seriously investigating the details.
I have come to the conclusion that Lithium batteries are not right for my system.
Not to say that it can not be done (it could) but the risk of destroying my very expensive pertinent magnet hydro is just too high.

All lithium batteries are composed of separate cells contained in a case.
Those cells are monitored and controlled by a BMS unit (battery management system) a built-in feature of all large lithium batteries.
I have now learned that when the BMS decides the battery is fully charged it disconnects from the charging source.
It will also auto disconnect for high-voltage and low-voltage, or if it malfunctions.
When using solar charging that is completely acceptable. Solar panels do not care if connected or not.
A hydro system or a wind system does care, they require a constant location to "dump" excess power.
Disconnecting a constant diversion charging source while running will send the alternator into an open circuit voltage this means the output voltage goes very high, which has the potential to melt wiring inside the unit.
At the same time once the load is removed, the hydro will go into an Overspeed condition.
The potential for a catastrophic blowout of my hydro, although low is higher than I care to worry about.

As much as I would like to upgrade to Lithium batteries...
I'm thinking I'll be in Missoula next week buying new AGMs!



HI Thomas, As mentioned in my very tired note to you last night you could do lithium but would probably need to upgrade your controller from dump load to MPPT here is a very rambling video of why that is.


and here is a link to missouri wind and solar's all in one package to do it. https://windandsolar.com/midnite-classic-mppt-wind-turbine-charge-controller-board/ That would allow you to do lithium or at the very least get more life from the AGMs.
On the plus side you could double your energy harvest depending on your turbine and battery voltage. Do you have a turbine model number,  its free wheel voltage? and your battery voltage?
 
steward
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Good thing you did you homework!
 
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I went with Nissan Leaf batteries.  I have hydro and solar.

With out knowing the details about your system It's hard to say a lot.
 
thomas rubino
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Hi David;
Thanks for the info.
My whole system is just slightly better than one that Fred Flintstone might have had.
All 12 vt, added to many times since 1983. I still have one run of straight 12 vt power thru the house!
It started with one solar panel leaning against the wall with a piece of  Romex wire passed thru a window and vice gripped to a die-hard battery.
530 watts solar, PWM charge controller, the Micro Hydro is a Harris permanent magnet 12 volt running a single nozzle.
I do not know the open circuit voltage.
All very hillbilly but it works for us.
I understand upgrading my entire power system to a high-voltage Mppt setup makes perfect sense.
If I was much younger, I would be foolish to not invest in that.
This system and I have grown old together (40 years!)
I think I'll let the kids decide what they want to do when it's theirs.

I very much wanted to try lithium batteries.
I was willing to take extra steps to do so.
With what I learned about the lithium BMS unit, for now, I'll stick with lead acid.
Maybe batteries will have improved when my AGMs wear out again.





DSCN0174.JPG
Harris hydro
Harris hydro
 
David Baillie
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Jack Adam wrote:I went with Nissan Leaf batteries.  I have hydro and solar.

With out knowing the details about your system It's hard to say a lot.


Hi Jack,
Did you ever post about your system? What controller are you using? I have a thread here: https://permies.com/t/206893/Solar-Projects-good-bad-cutting
Where I would love to see the system or a link to it if you've already posted...
Cheers,. David Baillie
 
David Baillie
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi David;
Thanks for the info.
My whole system is just slightly better than one that Fred Flintstone might have had.
All 12 vt, added to many times since 1983. I still have one run of straight 12 vt power thru the house!
It started with one solar panel leaning against the wall with a piece of  Romex wire passed thru a window and vice gripped to a die-hard battery.
530 watts solar, PWM charge controller, the Micro Hydro is a Harris permanent magnet 12 volt running a single nozzle.
I do not know the open circuit voltage.
All very hillbilly but it works for us.
I understand upgrading my entire power system to a high-voltage Mppt setup makes perfect sense.
If I was much younger, I would be foolish to not invest in that.
This system and I have grown old together (40 years!)
I think I'll let the kids decide what they want to do when it's theirs.

I very much wanted to try lithium batteries.
I was willing to take extra steps to do so.
With what I learned about the lithium BMS unit, for now, I'll stick with lead acid.
Maybe batteries will have improved when my AGMs wear out again.





hi Thomas, no need to appologise for sticking with what works. I'm sort of in the same boat. I have my magnum 4024 MS that I want to set back up to run half the new house. To do that Ill need 3 60 amp charge controllers, an auto transformer,all of which I have, a mountain of cabling and 6 ft of wall space...  All to run a 12 year old inverter. Or I can spend 1200 and get a smra all in one inverter that is 18x18 inches runs 5000 watts of solar runs at 220 and has 6 wires running into it..
I'm taking the winter to think about it.
Cheers, David
 
pollinator
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Howdy,

"My whole system is just slightly better than one that Fred Flintstone might have had."

"All very hillbilly but it works for us."

"This system and I have grown old together (40 years!)"

Same here,  Thomas,

rc
 
steward
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What about considering some of the lead carbon batteries. Ive seen 2800 cycles at 50% DOD. Not bad in my opinion.
This one offers 2050 cycles at 50% DOD
https://windandsolar.com/northstar-210AH-sealed-AGM-battery/



Good research thomas.

Or this listing  450 usd per battery.
https://www.shoppok.com/missoula/a,37,195146,NorthStar-Pure-Lead-Carbon-12v-Battery----450--Missoula-.htm
 
Jack Adam
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David Baillie wrote:

Jack Adam wrote:I went with Nissan Leaf batteries.  I have hydro and solar.

With out knowing the details about your system It's hard to say a lot.


Hi Jack,
Did you ever post about your system? What controller are you using? I have a thread here: https://permies.com/t/206893/Solar-Projects-good-bad-cutting
Where I would love to see the system or a link to it if you've already posted...
Cheers,. David Baillie



I'm using an older Outback controller on my hydro.

I tend to not over share on the internet due to issues I have run into in the past from over sharing on a chat forum years ago.
 
Jack Adam
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi David;
I very much wanted to try lithium batteries.
I was willing to take extra steps to do so.
With what I learned about the lithium BMS unit, for now, I'll stick with lead acid.
Maybe batteries will have improved when my AGMs wear out again.



The best battery for you is biased off your system and how it is used at the end of the day.  I never used AGM's for my power system, but use them for starting batteries.  

I did not go with a BMS on my system, but I'm also on used batteries.  It is no longer set and forget like I'm told you can do with BMS systems, but to me it's not that much more work.

Unless something changes I think a lot of people will be going to used batteries for off grid and hybrid systems in the next few years.
 
thomas rubino
rocket scientist
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Hi Jack;
Thanks for the reply.
Interesting you have no BMS.  Being from a vehicle I assume this is a higher-voltage battery?
I had not given any thought to building my own lithium bank and not installing a BMS.

What kind of maintenance/upkeep do you need to perform?



 
David Baillie
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Jack Adam wrote:

David Baillie wrote:

Jack Adam wrote:I went with Nissan Leaf batteries.  I have hydro and solar.

With out knowing the details about your system It's hard to say a lot.


Hi Jack,
Did you ever post about your system? What controller are you using? I have a thread here: https://permies.com/t/206893/Solar-Projects-good-bad-cutting
Where I would love to see the system or a link to it if you've already posted...
Cheers,. David Baillie



I'm using an older Outback inverter on my hydro.

I tend to not over share on the internet due to issues I have run into in the past from over sharing on a chat forum years ago.

I totally hear you. I do find the general quality of posters here is higher then the norm and the admins take a more active role then you usually find.
 
Jack Adam
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jack;
Thanks for the reply.
Interesting you have no BMS.  Being from a vehicle I assume this is a higher-voltage battery?
I had not given any thought to building my own lithium bank and not installing a BMS.

What kind of maintenance/upkeep do you need to perform?



Please do your own research as I'm going off of memory.
Each pack is about 7.6 volts and around 40 amp hours.  You have to do a lot of math on the voltages and looking at what inviters or what ever you are going to use will be able to handle.  7 packs in series works for most 48 volt systems I think.

I have 2 sets of batteries (on different breakers) and every other month I pull the buss bars off and test the voltages on each cell.  If it is needed I will pull the pack apart and rebuild it paralleling different packs together.  I also have a few spare packs if needed for replacements.  I only had 2 pull each pack apart twice once I started to use them.  I feel this should be done any time you have batteries in parallel, but most people do not until you kill a group of cells or batteries.

I was able to get 2 full Nissan Leaf battery packs for under $3,200 total at the time.  At the time the information on using the batteries for solar was lacking I might have around 60 hours of work and fooling around to get the one up and running.  Took about 20 hours to get the other batter pack up and running.  I think I have around $700 in a box of bolts, threaded rods, nuts, drill bits, copper bars, and 2 custom batter holders.
 
Jack Adam
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David Baillie wrote: I totally hear you. I do find the general quality of posters here is higher then the norm and the admins take a more active role then you usually find.



I understand, but had a bad run in years ago.
 
master pollinator
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Aside: Just made popcorn. Watching this thread closely. Keep going!
 
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We're 12v with a total usable capacity of about 240AH plus some junk batteries I picked up for scrap value that charge our computers and phones in the bedroom.  Gets us through about 3 days of no solar most of the year, will add a wind turbine and a thermoelectric generator before winter starts encroaching because there's no sense of tripling a solar array that produces near enough to 0kWh for a full month when other generation options exist and most of the year we're in excess.

That said, if my batteries shat the bed today I'd immediately get on the local digital market and buy some more used AGMs to buy me another handful of years.  

My long term goal is to be without batteries (an acceptable alternative would be only a large enough bank to get the fridge through the night -with hydro you could totally pull that off) but the combination of system stress due to dead batteries + integrating new technologies has not worked well for me in the past and invariably I'd screw up a minor detail without realising it, possibly throwing the whole of the system into danger.  

Defo the best time to integrate new tech that behaves differently is *NOT* in the hour of need.

Not that anyone asked me, mind you.
 
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David Baillie wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Hi all;

and here is a link to missouri wind and solar's all in one package to do it. https://windandsolar.com/midnite-classic-mppt-wind-turbine-charge-controller-board/ That would allow you to do lithium or at the very least get more life from the AGMs.
On the plus side you could double your energy harvest depending on your turbine and battery voltage. Do you have a turbine model number,  its free wheel voltage? and your battery voltage?



This thing looks way too beefy for the miniscule amount of power Thomas is generating.  100W input, where the charger can handler 3KW?  
Why not choose something from among these hybrid systems?
https://windandsolar.com/wind-solar-hybrid-charge-controllers/

 
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hello
for your doubts about the turbine, there are some cheap and programmable electronic circuits, which I use, and they are under/overvoltage with 10A relay output. program them slightly below the maximum voltage of the bms, and via its relay, drive an ac load from your inverter. the power will be sufficient to avoid over-revving the impeller. the load will be disconnected, when it reaches the UVP voltage. Furthermore, for greater safety, use another equal one, but which opens a solenoid valve on the pipeline, so as to discharge the incoming flow and still let the Pelton rotate
 best   greatig
udos46
 
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Part of the problem is clinging to the use of AGMs.  Why not go with flooded lead-acid in stead, and get double the life for half the money?  I would not be as concerned about "corrosive vapors" as some worry about.  For my own off-grid systems, I had my first set of lead-acid batteries in the living room for years.  Neighbors down the road as well.  As long as you have the slightest ventilation, you will never notice them there.

I've used both Trojan and Rolls batteries in my applications, with excellent results.

A second reason for the early demise of your batteries might have to do with the relatively low charging rate of 8amps or so.  Most batteries like charging at rates around 1/8 of C20.  Some even 1/5C.  Let's say your battery bank is 220Ah at 12V?  One eighth of 220Ah = 220A/8 = 27.5A.  Maybe the addition of some solar will be beneficial for your system.  To get an honest 27.5A when charging at 13V or so, assume your panels only put out 85% of their nameplate rating.  My real-world testing suggests 85% is a good fudgefactor.  So, if you want to add solar to keep your batteries in top shape, you'd need (27.5A X 13Vcharging)/85% =  420W of panels

That would make you a great hybrid system with both solar and hydro.  Let the solar carry most of the load during the sunny, clear weather, but depend on the hydro in the wet rainy weather.  Shop for your panels on Craigslist, with local cash and carry purchase.  You will save a LOT, not having to pay the shipping charges.
 
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Michael Qulek wrote:Part of the problem is clinging to the use of AGMs.  Why not go with flooded lead-acid in stead, and get double the life for half the money?



I agree. My four 6V Duracels have given me 5 trouble-free seasons with no noticable loss in capacity. They are still at 80% after being dormant for the Maine winter.  I top them off the first of every month and make sure they are fully charged before shutting down for the winter.

I call FLAs the battery we love to hate.
 
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our hydro powered battery array is the same. We check levels, voltage and amps daily, then check a cell per battery monthly for acidity, then every cell once per year.

 
Steve Zoma
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Storage batteries

 
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Hello, guys. I wanted to say about  LiFe PO4 batteries. As far as I know, this type of battery is now widely used in portable power stations like EcoFlow. I am not a fan of those battery types, but I am just thinking of a practical point. Moreover, LiFe PO4 batteries have more charging cycles it's up to 3500
 
David Baillie
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Steven Murpy wrote:Hello, guys. I wanted to say about  LiFe PO4 batteries. As far as I know, this type of battery is now widely used in portable power stations like EcoFlow. I am not a fan of those battery types, but I am just thinking of a practical point. Moreover, LiFe PO4 batteries have more charging cycles it's up to 3500


HI Steven, Welcome to Permies. Lithium has taken over most straight forward solar applications but lead still has a lot of use scenarios. In this case the Original Poster was talking about lithium for his micro hydro. Micro hydro and wind installs on lithium would require a complete rebuild of the charge controllers for those applications. I think the consensus was that it was not worth the effort in this case.
Cheers,  David
 
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Another option, is Carbon Foam batteries...    Video about them on youtube, can take them down to zero volts and does not hurt them.

I would love to test out the battery chemistries that Robert Murray Smith on youtube suggests,   but I prefer to buy a solution instead of fight thru a jungle to find it may or may not work.  ;-)

 
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I don’t know why I didn’t see this thread long ago and what I am about to say might fall into the day-late-dollar-short category.

Has anyone here, including the OP, considered *Building* a battery?  By this I mean acquiring individual battery cells (LiFePo4 being the most common, but other chemistries are available), adding a BMS and wiring them together inside some housing.

I have been involved in building a battery box based on LiFePo4 battery cells for about a year.  I would have had my project finished long ago, but sourcing a supply of my specific sized and dimension battery took some time.

The relevant point here is that if a custom BMS is installed, then the upper and lower charge limits can be adjusted and therefore still take advantage of solar panels working at low and especially high output.

There is definitely a skill set required to build one of these devices, but jumping in and building it helps develop that skill set.  My current project is based on 105 AH cells housed in an ammo box.  Now that I have the batteries I hope to accelerate my project.

My conclusion statement is that LiFePo4 batteries might still be the appropriate chemistry, but it will require building in an appropriate Battery Monitor.  If you are looking for pointers, I can certainly point you towards some possible solutions.

Eric
 
David Baillie
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Eric Hanson wrote:I don’t know why I didn’t see this thread long ago and what I am about to say might fall into the day-late-dollar-short category.

Has anyone here, including the OP, considered *Building* a battery?  By this I mean acquiring individual battery cells (LiFePo4 being the most common, but other chemistries are available), adding a BMS and wiring them together inside some housing.

I have been involved in building a battery box based on LiFePo4 battery cells for about a year.  I would have had my project finished long ago, but sourcing a supply of my specific sized and dimension battery took some time.

The relevant point here is that if a custom BMS is installed, then the upper and lower charge limits can be adjusted and therefore still take advantage of solar panels working at low and especially high output.

There is definitely a skill set required to build one of these devices, but jumping in and building it helps develop that skill set.  My current project is based on 105 AH cells housed in an ammo box.  Now that I have the batteries I hope to accelerate my project.

My conclusion statement is that LiFePo4 batteries might still be the appropriate chemistry, but it will require building in an appropriate Battery Monitor.  If you are looking for pointers, I can certainly point you towards some possible solutions.

Eric


Eric, I think the OP's issue ended up being the older style charge controllers he was using. My view is If you cannot control the voltage accurately coming out of the charge controller you will have issues with lithium batteries regardless of the BMS you use.  Re reading it all I think a work around could be a small lead acid bank to act as the wind or hydro buffer and a relay controlled dc to dc charger to look after charging a lithium bank. He could even voltage up that way. He would loose some efficiency of course but avoid a complete rebuild of the system.
 
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