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Improving clay soil on the cheap

 
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I have clay loam soil. Our front yard was weed filled and ugly. It was a nightmare in the summer...like concrete. I decided to try the sheet mulching method. I applied about an inch of compost. Then completely covered with cardboard.  Watered well in between layers. Applied another layer of compost. Then topped with approx 3 inches of arbor mulch. This was in February several years ago which allowed me to take advantage of our short rainy season.
Within a month I was able to plant my perennials with no problem.  I just pushed aside the layers and cut a hole in the cardboard and planted.
This method worked really well and transformed my yard.
I get lots of compliments on it years later.
 
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Location: Gold Canyon, AZ
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forest garden cooking bee
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While it might not be "free" you can use seed or roots,. Sow plants intensively for a couple seasons, then chop and smother the whole patch like a hugelkulture bed. The humic acids, worms and mycelium from growing the patch for a few seasons will break down the bonded clay and add carbon and nitrogen. The trick might be to use native or seed that really likes the clay at first. I am trialing that now in AZ clay. It does appear to be working out so far. Plowers and nitrogen fixers to start with. (black eyed peas + daikon) But then garbonzo + standard radish(other plowers) get added next. As the season changes so does the type of seed sown, however it ends up a patch. The timing of season and soil temperatures need to match as well as being a clay loving seed. (warming season seed, cooling season seed, peak heat season seed, peak cool season seed).
 
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Location: Sierra Nevada foothills, 350 m, USDA 8b, sunset zone 7
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I have added coarse sand that I was using for building but it got mixed with the soil, so I needed to do something with it. When added to my clay loam the first time I was able to grow onions to an extent sufficient to enjoy the bulbs (and not only greens). Some people claim that mixing sand into clay will make it even harder, but it worked for me and loosened the soil so I can work it in summer without using pick axe. I will be adding more to other spots.
 
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Location: rural West Virginia
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It worked for me too. But I think I read that in the Southwest there is type of clay it doesn't work with (caliche?) and also you should use coarse sand not fine sand.
 
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Location: USDA Zone 8a
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The thing about caliche is that is really poor dirt.

It packs down and nothing wants to grow.  Lots of organic matter is needed.

The method that Linda Smith might help as long as tons of organic matter is added.
 
Mary Cook
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Location: rural West Virginia
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It's so easy to say "add tons of organic matter" and so hard to find tons, and sometimes hard to transport it. I saw an article about the best way to compost that suggest using two meters square of kitchen scraps...even most industrial kitchens don't generate that much at once!
 
pioneer
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Mary Cook wrote:It's so easy to say "add tons of organic matter" and so hard to find tons, and sometimes hard to transport it. I saw an article about the best way to compost that suggest using two meters square of kitchen scraps...even most industrial kitchens don't generate that much at once!



Greengrocers do, supermarkets even more so if they'll work with you.

Transport is still a challenge.  

But our local independent greengrocer scraps off as unsaleable an average of a couple of cubic feet of produce daily in summer.  

That's handcartable.

Anything only cosmetically damaged, they donate to our local Black-run Mutual Aid kitchen.  

The rest we are composting for our community garden aiming to grow vegetables & fruit for the kitchen & volunteers.
 
Mary Cook
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Location: rural West Virginia
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A couple of cubic feet a day is pretty different from several cubic meters. But still useful for someone building soil; but you still need something higher in carbon that you can get, at least occasionally, in greater bulk like leaves or hay or wood chips. But your mention of the handcart made me think of this: I spent the summer of 2003 in Ecuador, the last month in Banos. I lived in a tourist house at the top of a hill above the town, near the hot springs that gave the town its name, on the flanks of Tungaroa, which was erupting at the time. I would sometimes see an old woman going up and down the road with a small pull-behind cart with a tank that would hold a couple of gallons. Someone told me that this woman made the trip daily, despite arthritis, because collecting compostables was a way she could contribute to her family, which had a restaurant I think.
 
Ac Baker
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This is a daily average, so that's a couple of cubic yards each month plus, as you say the "browns" or high carbon additions needed.  

This is a small greengrocer which happens to be halfway down the gentle hill from my house to our community garden, too.

On a heavy day, my handcart is absolutely stacked & only just manouevreable.  

A cooperative big supermarket and a suitable motor vehicle could divert tonnes from the wastestream ..


 
Anne Miller
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Location: USDA Zone 8a
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Mary Cook wrote:It's so easy to say "add tons of organic matter" and so hard to find tons, and sometimes hard to transport it. I saw an article about the best way to compost that suggest using two meters square of kitchen scraps...even most industrial kitchens don't generate that much at once!



Get free wood chip deliveries (by the ton) ...

Check with local restaurants for their scraps to compost ...

Get bagged leaves off the curb ...

Make friends with the local barista ...for the coffee grounds.

Make friends with a local landscaper for the grass clipping ....
 
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