Using Baltic Birch plywood for Rabbit Tunnels

I know next to nothing about woodworking myself though I have helped carpenters build things.

I want to build 3 sided tunnels for my rabbits ~15"long by 8" high by 8" across.
The exact dimensions are not critical  though most cage doors are 12"x12" so they need to fit through that.
The rabbits would either lay in the tunnel or climb on top - these are for my weanlings less than 5 lbs.

This is a project i want to do on my own without bothering my husband who has way too much to do already.

I found where I can get pieces of Baltic Birch the right size in 1/4" thickness.
My current plan is to use both glue and small screws to join the boards.
It looks like Titebond III wood glue would work.
But I am stuck on the type and size of screw to use.
I am sure that I need to predrill holes so that the screws will go in straight and neat.

I plan to set the top on the sides, with glue, and then screw down into the sides.

I found some clamps that would help hold the boards together while doing this.

Okay, so, I am open to any and all suggestions including:

Can I use a good dremel to drill the screw holes?

Is there a small enough screw that will do this?

Is there a better tool than a Dremel for this?

I don't mind if you tell me this absolutely won't work but please don't unless you really know it won't.
Preferably tell me if I need to adjust the plan. Is there a better wood?
Obviously, regular plywood cut into appropriate rectangles would work better but I don't
currently have a way to accomplish that.
I also would like these tunnels to be strong enough but not super heavy.

Thanks in advance for any help.

First off, I love working with Baltic Birch, particularly when aiming for light weight - I have hanging 3-seater nest boxes that I build out of it, and they've generally stood up well (except the one in a shelter that a tree fell on... the girls were *not* impressed).

Ideas/opinions/concerns:
1. Bunnies chew - I expect they will chew this box. I don't know how toxic or not the glue is that holds the wood layers together.
2. Even with a pilot hole, 1/4 inch isn't much wood. I would be inclined to use small, square strips of material on the inside to attach the sides together. That will reduce the size of the tunnel, but rabbits build round tunnels traditionally, so would "filling in the corners" be a problem? Half inch by half inch would do?
3. Alternatively, I would consider using brackets and hold the tunnels together with small machine screws. This would be more expensive than the option in #2.
4. I would make up a bit of a jig with heavier wood to hold the panels reasonably square while assembling them. Yes, no one's going to show up with a protractor to check, but I expect they will be a bit stronger if they're a square and less frustrating to build. The nest boxes I made were a struggle due to issues along these lines. Scraps of pallet wood could do the job, if you're in an area where they are free.

Jay Angler wrote:First off, I love working with Baltic Birch, particularly when aiming for light weight - I have hanging 3-seater nest boxes that I build out of it, and they've generally stood up well (except the one in a shelter that a tree fell on... the girls were *not* impressed).

Ideas/opinions/concerns:
1. Bunnies chew - I expect they will chew this box. I don't know how toxic or not the glue is that holds the wood layers together.
2. Even with a pilot hole, 1/4 inch isn't much wood. I would be inclined to use small, square strips of material on the inside to attach the sides together. That will reduce the size of the tunnel, but rabbits build round tunnels traditionally, so would "filling in the corners" be a problem? Half inch by half inch would do?
3. Alternatively, I would consider using brackets and hold the tunnels together with small machine screws. This would be more expensive than the option in #2.
4. I would make up a bit of a jig with heavier wood to hold the panels reasonably square while assembling them. Yes, no one's going to show up with a protractor to check, but I expect they will be a bit stronger if they're a square and less frustrating to build. The nest boxes I made were a struggle due to issues along these lines. Scraps of pallet wood could do the job, if you're in an area where they are free.

Ah! No, the reduction in interior space would not be a problem, that is a GREAT idea!

I will have to research the glue used for baltic birch. Of course, the bunnies will chew and I didn't think about the glue.

Definitely need to make up some type of jig. I will look into that.

Thank you!!!

I would use 3/4" square gussets (ripped from 1x2 stock), or even plain 1x2s.The 1x2s commonly stocked in lumberyards as furring strips (not the fancy finish material) are actually about 1 3/8" x 5/8" with rounded corners, which would work excellently.

I would screw and glue the 1x2s to one pair of plywood pieces while sitting flat on a table (easier to handle), then set up the now "C"-shaped assemblies on edge and lay the joining side on the pair and screw and glue. Then flip the thing over and add the fourth side. Yes, pilot the holes in the plywood, but you don't need to pilot the 1x2s. You really only need enough screws to hold the thing together firmly while the glue dries.

Unless you plan to use these where it is always in water, not just outdoors, Titebond II is fine. I have built full sized structures with this and they have lasted years.

ANOTHER QUESTION

Can you staple through 1/4" Baltic Birch?

I would say it depends on what you are stapling with. A construction-grade pneumatic/electric staple gun would probably have no problem, a homeowner type of stapler might not work.

Glenn Herbert wrote:I would say it depends on what you are stapling with. A construction-grade pneumatic/electric staple gun would probably have no problem, a homeowner type of stapler might not work.

So you mean a contractor grade nail gun not a consumer grade nail gun?

If it could be described as a nail gun it should be up to the job.