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Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
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How Permies works: https://permies.com/wiki/34193/permies-works-links-threads
My projects on Skye: The tree field, Growing and landracing, perennial polycultures, "Don't dream it - be it! "
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- Tim's Homestead Journal - Purchase a copy of Building a Better World in Your Backyard - Purchase 6 Decks of Permaculture Cards -
- Purchase 12x Decks of Permaculture Cards - Purchase a copy of the SKIP Book - Purchase 12x copies of Building a Better World in your Backyard
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Anne Miller wrote:Welcome to the forum!
Usually it is recommended to start seeds outside after the last frost. Mother Nature is sometimes undependable and will spring a late frost on folks.
I always follow the instruction on my seed packet as for planting.
I would suggest starting seeds for foods that you like.
I feel that lettuce is easy and other folks on the forum feel that lettuce is hard.
I feel carrots are hard to grow though some folks feel carrots are easy to grow. My suggestion would be to plant some flowers that pests don't like like French Marigolds or Sweet Alyssum.
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Nancy Reading wrote:Hello and welcome to permies!
I see you are zone 5 - that's pretty cold right? The earliest seeds I start outside are hardy ones like some peas, and fava beans, but here it isn't really worth sowing direct until April really. For many US areas that will be far too late! Hopefully someone from your zone will chip in with better advice.
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Timothy Norton wrote:Welcome to Permies Gussie!
I like a skip and a jump from you over in Washington County and usually wait until February to start indoor seeds like tomatoes and such. I start putting out my early outdoor seeds such as peas, spinach, and kale as soon as the ground can be worked (usually in March/April. You want to be past the worst of the frosts).
Are you planning on growing in the ground? I have found raised beds warm up a little sooner in our climate but they require a little advanced planning to put together than just breaking ground.
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Doug McEvers wrote:I rely very much on soil temperature to decide when and what to plant. 7:00 am in the morning is the suggested time to take readings as the solar gain will have cooled and the deeper soil will equalize temperature with the shallower soil. Cold stress is real, more for some plants than others, even shows up in indoor transplants, tomatoes for instance, if they get chilled. I would be very interested to hear from others here on how they get vigorous tomato transplants, mine always seem a bit spindly. They turn into decent tomatoes when put in the garden but are very wind prone early on. I have started doing a tomato volunteer area in the garden, they come up later than I would like but the vigor far surpasses that of my transplants. I like WI 55 tomatoes for my climate in western MN.
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Anne Miller wrote:Welcome to the forum!
Usually it is recommended to start seeds outside after the last frost. Mother Nature is sometimes undependable and will spring a late frost on folks.
I always follow the instruction on my seed packet as for planting.
I would suggest starting seeds for foods that you like.
I feel that lettuce is easy and other folks on the forum feel that lettuce is hard.
I feel carrots are hard to grow though some folks feel carrots are easy to grow. My suggestion would be to plant some flowers that pests don't like like French Marigolds or Sweet Alyssum.
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I child proofed my house but they still get in. Distract them with this tiny ad:
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https://wheaton-labs.com/bootcamp
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