Mold growth in my bathroom

jeff Swart wrote:.....

While surfing the interwebs I came across a very informative site - Mold Help For You. The site is provided by a Certified Mold Inspector from the International Association of Certified Mold Inspectors...
| Mold Help For You - https://moldhelpforyou.com/shower-mold/
Hope this helps

thanks Jeff. I continued looking on this site and found what the author recommends here:  https://moldhelpforyou.com/ec3-mold-solution/  
Interesting that it is mainly composed of Citrus seed extracts and does not only kill mold, but also the myco toxins that could remain or develop, Myco toxins are the danger in mold and it's removal.
The author reviews all the other substances that have been used for mold, their pros and cons.

Annie Daellenbach wrote:I am dealing with mold in our attic, due to the soffit vents being blocked by insulation

so are we! We are going to replace the sheathing and possibly some of the trusses, and the end caps. Thank you for the blog recommendation.

The first point I wanted to add was that mold is a fungus, and when a porous substance that has been infiltrated with mold mycelium, like a shiitake log, it will always flush mold patches under the right atmospheric conditions, no matter how fleeting. So unless you can keep the bathroom super dry, by never showering or bathing and running a dehumidifier on cloudy days, it will keep coming back.

The second point was already made, but rarely do walls grow mold without a leak in the wall. It's more common in high humidity regions in areas of the home with low circulation, like behind a bookcase, but in dryer temperate zones it is usually a leak.

LIME PRIME!!!   Over the past 8 yrs, I have used this (in 2 different properties) for mold, including in a bathroom. Worked wonderfully, long-term! Yep: Halted it 100%. Inexpensive, zero VOCs, doesn't require endangering yourself or spreading spores throughout the house. Folks above who gathered that ALKALINITY would work, I believe are correct, based on how this product works. I think it would be possible to make a home-made version, but I've not yet done so.

https://shop-earthpaint.net/products/lime-prime

"Lime Prime is America's best (AND SAFEST) paint after flooding and preventing moldy surfaces. This low odor, mineral based, zero-voc product dries fast and is the best way to let surfaces dry out safely. Whether you're doing Disaster Relief, remodelling a musty basement, repairing flood damage, protecting wood frame construction, or simply want to coat your walls and protect your family, Lime Prime is the best way to go.

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Recommended for: Drywall, Concrete and Wood. Recommended Spread Rate: 250-300 sq ft / gal.

ZERO VOC LIME PRIME - Covers mold stains and resists deterioration by mold.

We have taken a 10,000 year old technology and engineered it to be safely applied directly over high moisture content, Mold and Mildew stained surfaces.  This product uses the power of lime to penetrate and saturate the porous cell structure of wood, drywall and concrete matrix. Lime Prime has endured the test of time in all regions of the USA and works naturally to keep coated surfaces clean. We've seen exposed areas stay clean for well over 7 years. Enclosed areas like wall cavities remain effective indefinitely.

This is not a latex paint loaded with excessive chemical biocides and called a mold killing paint. Nor is it a basic Lime Wash. It is an Earth derived advanced inorganic mineral technology. Lime Prime is engineered for use where conventional coatings fall short and health concerns are primary."

I'm so sorry you're dealing with mold!  That's no fun!  It's not the most green solution, but the best we've been able to come up with is a continuous running dehumidifier.  We attached a clear PVC tube to the back and let it run into a milk jug in the bathtub (otherwise the water pools and mold itself can grow in the dehumidifier!).  Each night I empty the milk jug.  Been a game changer in our home and we used it successfully for RV living, too.  

Blessings!

Also, the medical medium has a recipe for essential oils you can diffuse to kill mold spores in the air to protect your health!  Rosemary . . . can't remember the rest.

I have had success with a rented comercial ozonator (sp?).
I rented it to get rid of smoke smell after a kitchen mishap.
A day running in a closed up bathroom did wonders.
No mold issues for +/-6 months in a bathroom that I take daily steamy showers in.

Other random thoughts:
I would also recommend as others have to look for sources or reservoirs of moisture: failed joints in shower enclosure, leaking tub drain, leaking toilet wax ring, attic.
Is exhaust fan ducted to outside or just to attic. Is it’s vent blocked? Is it so full of lint it is not drawn it’s rated air flow.
Are you running exhaust fans long enough to dry out the space? Maybe a timer so you can leave it running for a while when you leave.

I have been doing this type of research myself. You can never get rid of mold. It is in the air around us. However it's growth increases in the ideal habitat. Most bathrooms are built with an underpowered exhaust vent. If you can, install a vent rated for a large bathroom. Run it during and after showers. Getting rid of moisture is the number one tool against mold. Also, you could run a dehumidifier in that room.

I had a plumbing leak that lasted a long time without me noticing it. It rotted out a lot of my subfloor. The only reason I noticed it is because I took down the drywall for a remodel and found mold. That led me to a rotten soaked subfloor and eventually to the leak. So I did a ton of research. Basically Hydrogen Peroxide is the best product for mold remediation. Bleach is not effective. Also it is best to physically rub it with a cloth and/or brush to remove the mold. I threw out the mold drywall. I am also in the process of removing the affected floors and subfloors. Any insulation that got soaked will also be thrown out. I will treat and clean the floor joists before seeing if they need any repairs. Then I'll make necessary repairs, lay new subfloor and flooring. I also installed a crawl space dehumidifier and a couple of blowers. This is to control the humidity in my hot humid coastal environment. I upgraded from the standard builder grade exhaust fan to a quiet 110 cfm fan. Most builder grade exhaust fans are 50 cfm which is only ok for a small powder room. You may want to investigate and see if there is another reason you have mold. My mold led me to a pipe leak. Do you have a roof leak? Is the space properly insulated to prevent condensation? HVAC condensation can cause water damage and mold. Also, consider if this is a porous or non porous surface. The surface may need replacing. If it is drywall, replace with mold resistant drywall. They also make mold resistant primer and paint.

Oh, and the EPA website has a lot of information about mold. https://www.epa.gov/mold

I'm actually dealing with almost the same thing right now. The mold in my bathroom keeps coming back, and I'm starting to realize it's probably not just the ventilation. The wall it’s growing on is shared with my bedroom, and I'm noticing that area stays damp even when the bathroom looks dry. That makes me think there might be a small leak behind the tile or plumbing that’s feeding the moisture. I’m still cleaning with vinegar and peroxide, but at this point, I'm focusing on figuring out why that wall keeps staying wet, because that seems to be the real source of the problem.

Moisture from bathrooms is a common issue.
Flashing may be damaged, tiles cracked or loose and poorly applied waterproofing.
The issue may be necessary to dismantle the wall.

Anna Fox wrote:I'm actually dealing with almost the same thing right now. The mold in my bathroom keeps coming back, and I'm starting to realize it's probably not just the ventilation. The wall it’s growing on is shared with my bedroom, and I'm noticing that area stays damp even when the bathroom looks dry. That makes me think there might be a small leak behind the tile or plumbing that’s feeding the moisture..

Sounds to me like the sheet rock or whatever the wall is made of would need to be removed.

That small leak, if there is one could be damaging your sub-floor causing thousands of dollars to repair.

Anne Miller wrote:

Anna Fox wrote:I'm actually dealing with almost the same thing right now. The mold in my bathroom keeps coming back, and I'm starting to realize it's probably not just the ventilation. The wall it’s growing on is shared with my bedroom, and I'm noticing that area stays damp even when the bathroom looks dry. That makes me think there might be a small leak behind the tile or plumbing that’s feeding the moisture..

Sounds to me like the sheet rock or whatever the wall is made of would need to be removed.

That small leak, if there is one could be damaging your sub-floor causing thousands of dollars to repair.

Yeah, correct. I finally called a local mold removal company, FDP Mold Remediation, for an inspection, and unfortunately, it's extensive. They confirmed a deeper issue, not just surface growth. I need a complete remediation, which includes removing and replacing porous, contaminated materials. Trying to DIY wasn't cutting it, and I'm really glad I had them check for the root cause. It's definitely more than just a ventilation fix for me, they suspect a persistent leakage issue is feeding the mold.

I've had good results in multiple situations with borax and/or boric acid for mold, both on wood and on drywall.  Simply dissolve either or both to near saturation in boiling water and paint on while hot.  I've put hot solution into a syringe and injected it into hard-to reach places and into holes through something like a shower surround (later to be filled with caulk).  Wood that was already wet I've treated by dusting the powder directly onto it.  In my most recent treatment (a moldy crawl space of a 100 year old house) I'd pulled a recipe advocating dissolving the borax into ethylene glycol antifreeze (a DIY version of a commercial wood treatment product called BoraCare, commonly used for log houses) which supposedly is even more effective.  The fumes are nasty to breathe as it's heating, though, and I found that this solution will actually cause a flush of mold at the outset, and only achieve positive results later as it slowly dries and crystallizes.  The simple borax in hot water solution crystallized quickly as it cools, and I think this action is what actually kills the mold.  Incidentally it will also stop wood rot (different fungi than common surface mold) and insects like ants and termites.  Once it's dry, you can wipe off the crystals with a dry rag and paint right over it.

Anna Fox wrote:[Yeah, correct. I finally called a local mold removal company, FDP Mold Remediation, for an inspection, and unfortunately, it's extensive. They confirmed a deeper issue, not just surface growth. I need a complete remediation, which includes removing and replacing porous, contaminated materials. Trying to DIY wasn't cutting it, and I'm really glad I had them check for the root cause. It's definitely more than just a ventilation fix for me, they suspect a persistent leakage issue is feeding the mold.

When I suggested removing the sheet rock to look for the cause of the mold, I never thought it would result in this ...