posted 5 years ago
Not sure how old you are, or how many people you intend to live there with you, or how long you think you'll stay on the land, but buying land ASAP might turn into an emotional decision rather than a practical/rational one.
It doesn't sound like the cabin was built with a permit, no water, septic or electricity, so chances are it wasn't. If it wasn't built to code, it will be pretty shocking what will be needed to bring it up to code, especially the foundation. The county will be all over that property telling you "yes" and "no" about all kinds of things. If you can't crawl under it to put in plumbing for grey and black water, that's really bad news. If it's on a slab and the plumbing is not in the slab, it's bad news. Having the building inspected by a professional could save you thousands of dollars.
Check for:
-Water, water, water.on the property...find out how deep the wells are in other houses near there, what kind of soil/rock they go through. Drilling companies might give you this info. Wells usually need to be lined to keep them from caving in, and sometimes that's the code=expensive
-Don't just assume the water will be drinkable. It might be safe, but it might taste bad. Up on a hillside/mountain it's usually better, but in a low-lying area it might not be okay. Hauling water sucks
-Water rights on creeks/ponds. Illegal ponds that withhold water from people downstream who have water rights can possibly end up having to lose the pond.
- Road/driveway access in the muddiest/snowiest times of year (long driveways are expensive to maintain and take a lot of maintenance, especially if on a slope)
-backup sources of heat/cooking like propane, and how far is a source of it. We used to use 10 gallons every 2 weeks with heat in a very small house, so that was a lot to keep on hand, a lot to have to constantly be making trips out and back for, also having a spare 5 gallon tank around for emergencies.
- the potential for solar panels with 6-8 hours of light on them in the most wintery month of the year. No tree shade, no building shade
- Does anyone, including a utility company, have a right-of-way through the property....that's not good. Would your driveway go through other people's property to get to yours? Can get complicated.
- Where is the nearest hardware store that is really stocked well? If it takes more than 2 hours round trip to get to such a store with supplies for something broken or you're up against a storm, plan on a shed full of hardware/tools to save you trips. I buy three of each item, one to replace, one to break or lose, and one to have on hand for the future.
- if supplies have to be delivered, whether it's UPS or a load of lumber, will those trucks make it up the driveway? A lot of companies won't allow their trucks to go into muddy/rough conditions, and where would your packages be left outside?
- would your driveway go over a private bridge over a creek that could wash it out? That can be why some properties are cheap, because the people couldn't afford a bridge to code, which can sometimes amount to $40,000+ because it's engineered into the sides of the creek. Delivery trucks won't go over private bridges unless they are engineered, like propane trucks and fire trucks, gravel trucks for the driveway. It would be close to impossible to legally occupy a house that the county says fire trucks can't get to.
- how far do you have to go to get mail? PO Boxes are expensive, and often there's a waiting list. Mail often gets stolen in lone boxes on the road
- What kind of erosion can you find, and be merciless about it, because it will only get worse and worse, and will need work
- What kind of wind conditions are there on the top of a hillside/mountain? If the cabin is in a very windy location, it will need a lot of maintenance. Frank Lloyd Wright said don't build on top of the mountain, build just down below it, out of the wind. Tall trees, even healthy ones, can come over in a bad wind storm and hit the house.
Mediterranean climate, hugel trenches, fabulous clay soil high in nutrients, self-watering containers with hugel layers, keyhole composting with low hugel raised beds, thick Back to Eden Wood chips mulch (distinguished from Bark chips), using as many native plants as possible....all drought tolerant.