Forum:

fruit trees

new fruit trees are struggling in drought

Mary Beth Alexander

pioneer

Posts: 84

Location: Douglas County, WI zone 4a 105 acres

I like...

posted 5 years ago

3
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

This Spring we finally were able to plant large potted trees we bought May 2019. Managed to hold them over that Summer and the Winter.
Planting was a little late this year ... early May in Zone 4-ish was still cold/frozen. Watered them in well and a couple more times, but my son was a little short on the water in the third week.
Two apples are gone - these are VERY large trees, but small root ball - maybe 3 gal.
Anyway, I'm keeping up with watering better, but others - plum and apples have been shocked.
Should I prune a little to help to help them along OR will it stimulate them to produce more leaves ... NOT what is needed in this drought. TYVM

Innovations that are guided by smallholder farmers, adapted to local circumstances, and sustainable for the economy and environment will be necessary to ensure food security in the future. Bill Gates

James Landreth

gardener

Posts: 1180

Location: Western Washington

340

I like...

posted 5 years ago

3
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

I would water but not prune, personally. If you could only manage a little watering I'd prune and give it a very deep watering, but ideally you won't do that. Top growth is precious in zone 4 and I wouldn't cut it back. I've grown in zone 4 Wisconsin. The summers are short and the growing season precious

When you reach your lowest point, you are open to the greatest change.
-Avatar Aang

Mary Beth Alexander

pioneer

Posts: 84

Location: Douglas County, WI zone 4a 105 acres

I like...

posted 5 years ago

Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

James et all, I'm giving at least 5 gals/week - hand-watering right to the root ball.

Innovations that are guided by smallholder farmers, adapted to local circumstances, and sustainable for the economy and environment will be necessary to ensure food security in the future. Bill Gates

Jay Angler

master steward

Posts: 14146

Location: Pacific Wet Coast

8436

I like...

posted 5 years ago

3
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

I've always been shocked at how much water just seems to we the surface even when you think you've give the plant lots. The two things I've tried are: 1. a *very* slow drip left on all night or 2. some sort of pipe with holes in the lower sides and bottom planted with the tree so that when you put water in the pipe, it leaks out down towards the bottom of the root ball.

Visit Redhawk's soil series: https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil
How permies.com works: https://permies.com/wiki/34193/permies-works-links-threads

oddball - sand badge (verified skill)
Skill verified by Mike Haasl

textiles - air badge (verified skill)
Skill verified by Mike Haasl

dimensional lumber woodworking - air badge (verified skill)
Skill verified by jordan barton

Food Prep and Preservation - air badge (verified skill)
Skill verified by Leigh Tate

greywater and willow feeders - air badge (verified skill)
Skill verified by Leigh Tate

Janet Reed

pollinator

Posts: 343

Location: Dry mountains Eastern WA

posted 5 years ago

6
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

I’m of a different mind. If you’re supplying water to all that foliage; what you want is deep root growth not more foliage. I sold fruit trees for years and before they went out the door we trimmed the new growth back to an outside bud to promote root growth. May be old school but it worked. You aren’t going to get fruit this year and you need big root growth to build a strong tree. Deep root growth is what gets you through drought.

I’d trim back and deep water. Watering less often but deeper makes strong trees. JMHO.

Triton Nomad

Posts: 22

Location: PNW Zone 8

I like...

posted 5 years ago

3
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

I agree with Janet Reed - I am now in a mild zone (PNW) but I lived in a harsher continental climate and the seedlings do fine if they get a chance to grow deep roots.
Another interesting thing to notice is that fruit tree seedlings can do better if grown in the shade the first season - I grow some of mine under alders then cut the alders down.

John Suavecito

gardener

Posts: 4463

705

I like...

posted 5 years ago

4
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

Another idea is that you want to water at the drip line-not at the root ball. It sounds like these are pretty large trees. Normally the most active or efficient roots to suck in water are at the outer drip line of the leaves. You could rot the root ball and still make the tree die of thirst.

John S
PDX OR

Check out Redhawk's soil series: https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil

Anne Pratt

pollinator

Posts: 431

Location: Hudson Valley, New York, USA

137

I like...

posted 5 years ago

1
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

John Suavecito wrote:Another idea is that you want to water at the drip line-not at the root ball. It sounds like these are pretty large trees. Normally the most active or efficient roots to suck in water are at the outer drip line of the leaves. You could rot the root ball and still make the tree die of thirst.

John S
PDX OR

Very good point! Or, in the case of these big trees with small root balls - you do want to encourage those roots outwards. If they have to reach for water, they will grow. I have a new apple and I try to water around it, not right down the trunk, to develop the root system.

. . . bathes in wood chips . . .

Jay Angler

master steward

Posts: 14146

Location: Pacific Wet Coast

8436

I like...

posted 5 years ago

2
Number of slices to send:

Optional 'thank-you' note:

Send

Anne Pratt wrote:

If they have to reach for water, they will grow.

I did that with a small apple tree by digging a compost pit starting about 2 feet from the planting hole and going further from it. I filled it with stuff to compost, and now add a little every week, so I'm building soil and watering the tree at the same time. I'm mostly adding "wet stuff" like veggie scraps, unless it starts to smell a little which tells me to add some extra "browns".

Visit Redhawk's soil series: https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil
How permies.com works: https://permies.com/wiki/34193/permies-works-links-threads

This tiny ad wants you to join in on naked yoga

The new gardening playing cards kickstarter is now live!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulwheaton/garden-cards