Best Rocket Stove fit.

At the risk of asking more than one question and providing more than just vague details, I ask for opinions on what may work best for my situation. The caveat here is, unless you have done, I will consider " I think and I believe" as just guesses.

What I have:
A rather large house, 50' x 52', two story plus high pitch roof, and complete basement.  Plus 16'  x 50' Porch/kitchen office
This don't have to be 100% of the heat as I have backup, but would like all I can get.
Central Chimney from Basement clear to the Top of roof plus 4'  this 7" square tile and nearly always has good draw/draft  36' or more depending how you measure.
I have a Pad for Rocket stove Mass that measures 41" x 51"  with lots of room around it, and about 5' from chimney listed
From this pad, I can build up with 5" walls, 40"-50" or 60"  or a bit more.
Listed in photo is sq ft of interior surface area for 60" sides and then the top as well.

I have a very good air handler unit in basement that I was was going to just pull warm air from basement (warmed by rocket stove) to send to balance of house.
I CAN NOT do as Peter has done with his beautiful stove in his house as I have no access to chimney flue except for basement.
I have almost unlimited supply of hardwood for stove, (I cut/trim trees and often get the tree itself)  All wood is cut/split and kept inside sheds for drying.

I have built a few rocket stoves,  from J to batch, but they keep evolving, thus my question as to what might work best.  I do not need to cook on it, strictly heating, I also don't need a bench as I can get enough surface area for a 6" system  with the above dimensions.
I understand from the top of the heat riser to top of mass, I should/will need firebrick.  I am fortunate to have granite for all the balance of mass.

So the question is basically, into this MASS I can build most any type/style of rocket stove, with really only, two requirements, fairly easy to light when one knows what works best. and it would be nice to see the burn but not absolutely necessary.  Some consideration might be in order to close it up when not burning (lost heat from continuing draft)

Thoughts and suggestions.  ON the coldest of days, I have no problem lighting twice per day  (morning/evening)

My first question in order to give better advice is, what is your climate, and how well is your house insulated? Unless your winters rarely get far below freezing, for such a big house I think even a 6" batch box would not be large enough to give a major fraction of the heat you will need, especially if you want to load twice a day and not more. A 7" square (inside dimensions) tile chimney as well placed as yours would have no problem handling an 8" batch box, which would be more the size I would go for.

How is your mass location situated relative to the main floor? If it would be possible to make a hole in the floor and extend the bell up into the main floor, you would get much better heating effect, and you could still capture heat from the basement part of the bell for your air handler to distribute.

Glenn Herbert wrote:My first question in order to give better advice is, what is your climate,
I am in north east Iowa and how well is your house insulated?
very well
Unless your winters rarely get far below freezing, for such a big house I think even a 6" batch box would not be large enough to give a major fraction of the heat you will need, especially if you want to load twice a day and not more
My Goal has never been to provide 100% of the heat, but rather make use of everything the stove can give me. If it warms just the basement to mid 70's that is already 25 degrees warmer than it would be. I am not opposed to 8" but my pad is still refrained to the 41 x 51 but of course I can go higher for more sq ft surface area.. A 7" square (inside dimensions) tile chimney as well placed as yours would have no problem handling an 8" batch box, which would be more the size I would go for.

How is your mass location situated relative to the main floor? If it would be possible to make a hole in the floor and extend the bell up into the main floor
The hole is already there, so heat rises well, but do to wall restraints the mass would not extend up through this hole., you would get much better heating effect, and you could still capture heat from the basement part of the bell for your air handler to distribute.

Thanks, Scott

I'm glad to hear that you are well insulated - always the most cost-effective heating and comfort measure.

I am confused by your statement that you already have a hole in the floor, but can't extend the mass up due to wall constraints. Are there walls around the hole? A railing? If there are walls, they could be partly or completely replaced by the mass walls giving better heating to the adjoining rooms and a bit more space.

Glenn Herbert wrote:I'm glad to hear that you are well insulated - always the most cost-effective heating and comfort measure.

I am confused by your statement that you already have a hole in the floor, but can't extend the mass up due to wall constraints. Are there walls around the hole? A railing? If there are walls, they could be partly or completely replaced by the mass walls giving better heating to the adjoining rooms and a bit more space.

The basement is split into three sections, This chimney access and planned area for the Rocket stove unit is section 3, section two has the HOLE in floor that was created years ago for a huge cold air return to a coal stove. (50 years ago) but is seperated from section 3 by a block supporting wall, and the first section is under the kitchen area (no access to chimney as it would be 25' away.

The sections are connected by doorways only. Because of how this is made, I won't be creating any more holes in floors.

Is there a better way to ask the original question?

Kind of sounds to me as if you want to build a largish masonry heater.  A larger masonry heater design will permit a large fuel load and bank a lot of heat.
By using a thermostat designed for a hot air exhaust fan your basement space will heat up to a set temperature, kick on and begin to distribute the excess heat throughout your house.

The same thing could be achieved with a batch box core, but to my thinking a more traditional masonry stove design might be more in tune with your needs.  Good Luck.

I believe the largest batch box and bell your space can fit would be the best solution. This is a version of masonry heater, only with a more efficient firebox than standard masonry heaters.

Thomas Tipton wrote:Kind of sounds to me as if you want to build a largish masonry heater.  A larger masonry heater design will permit a large fuel load and bank a lot of heat.
By using a thermostat designed for a hot air exhaust fan your basement space will heat up to a set temperature, kick on and begin to distribute the excess heat throughout your house.

The same thing could be achieved with a batch box core, but to my thinking a more traditional masonry stove design might be more in tune with your needs.  Good Luck.

Actually I was wanting to build the best fit for my designated Bell as I showed and described. And of course, the Bell would "bank a lot of heat"  and certainly I can have the fan come on with a thermostat Or I can just have the air unit run 24/7 distributing the heat through out the house. No different than if I had the unit in the living area.

I will just build a unit according to one of the dimensions given for a set size of Donkey32 batch box specs by Peter V. .. It will either work really well or pretty well.

Thanks all.
Scott

Yes, make your bell as tall as the space will allow, and size the batch box to that ISA, and it should operate fine. It will be interesting to hear how much of the house's heating load it supports when in operation... good practical information for other builders with similar situations.