Guide to De-worming Chickens With Easily Available Drugs

Here is a guide for how and when to use Fenbendazole and/or Pyrantel Pamoate to de-worm chickens.  

-Fenbendazole “Safeguard 10%”-
Fenbendazole is one of the best, safest drugs for treating round worms, gape worms, and parasitic nematodes. It is easiest to find as “Safeguard 10%” for goats or cattle at the farm stores. This drug is FDA approved for chickens, but dosage for chickens is only laid out in their “Safeguard Aqua-sol 20%” product which is much harder to find and marketed in larger volumes for commercial chicken operations. Here is the steps and math for dosing.

Step 1. Determine the need. Do you actually have parasites? Have you seen them in your chicken poo or used other diagnostics like a fecal floatation test? If yes, then proceed.

Step 2. Are your chickens molting and actively growing new feathers? If NO, then proceed. If yes then stop.  
-Fenbendazole is not for use molting chickens as it causes damage to growing feathers.
-For molting birds, use Pyrantel Pamoate instead (see below.)

Step 3. Determine how much water your chickens drink in a day. Fenbendazole is added to drinking water.
-For example, my 9 chicken flock drinks around ½ gallon per day.

Step 4. Determine your total weight of birds. Number of birds x pounds per bird.
- Example: My flock is 54 pounds (9 chickens x 6 lbs each= 54 lbs)  

Step 5. Determine your dosage range. Total weight of your flock x 0.00454 ml of Safeguard10% per pound per day. This calculation gives you the minimum effective Fenbendazole dose (1mg/kg/day.)
-Example: 54 pounds of flock x 0.00454 ml per pound = 0.25 ml of Safeguard10% per day for the entire flock.
-There is a HUGE safety margin for this product (it takes something like 1000 ml per kg to kill a rat) so you can take your dose and easily double it if you have doubts on how much water your birds will drink. I will reference a safety study.

Step 6.  Take your ml per pound per day number and size it to your waterer. Plan on a 5 day course of treatment, adding each daily dosage to the amount of water your birds drink per day (or multiplying to the size of your waterer.) Mix well.
-Since my birds drink ½ gallon per day, I dosed 2 and ½ gallons (5 days worth of water)
-As I said in Step 5, it’s a very safe product so I doubled my 0.25 ml daily dose to 0.5 ml and therefore added 2.5ml to my 2 and ½ gallon waterer.  
-Make sure this is the ONLY source of water your chickens have for the duration of treatment

Notes
-There are 2 different treatment course options out there. The one I outlined doses near the minimum effective for 5 days. The other gives one big single dose of 20-50 mg per kg and repeats in 10 days (that’s 20x to 50x stronger than the 1mg per kg minimum, told you it was safe stuff!) I didn’t like the idea of 2 big doses, so this write-up is for the 5 day course. See bottom comments below for more info.
- No egg withdrawal study has been done for this drug. Discard eggs for two weeks after treatment if you’re apprehensive about the possibility of human ingestion.

Sources:
http://avianmedicine.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/18.pdf
http://www.poultrydvm.com/drugs/fenbendazole
https://merckusa.cvpservice.com/product/basic/view/1047516





-Pyrantel Pamoate 50mg/ml Oral Suspension-
Pyrantel Pamoate is an easy to find drug for treating pinworms in humans. It is effective at killing roundworms in chickens, but this is off-label, not FDA approved. Commonly given orally to chickens in one dose, then a follow-up dose 10 to 14 days later. Use this if you need to treat and your chickens who are molting/growing new feathers.

Step 1- Determine weight of birds. Doses are given orally, individually.
-If you have some very large birds and some smaller breeds then you may want to tailor dosing.
-Or skip the math in step 2 and take my word that 0.5 ml is a pretty safe bet for just about any chicken at the 50mg/ml strength.

Step 2- Dose is 0.041 ml of “Pyrantel Pamoate 50mg/ml” per pound of bird.
- One 6 pound bird needs around 0.25 ml (6lbs x 0.041= 0.246ml)
- Product is very safe. I doubled the dose to 0.5 ml to account for any spillage.

Step 3- Figure out how to administer doses. This product CANNOT be given in drinking water.
- Use a syringe to inject 0.5ml into bread cubes. An ice cube tray is helpful to divide these up and keep track. Make up a few extra, trust me.  
- Organization is tricky. You might set up a small pen at your normal chicken gate so you can allow one bird into the “dosing pen” at a time and then release into a “dosed bird” area until you’ve moved through your whole flock
- Optionally you can grab one bird at a time and pipette the dose down their mouth, but only do this if you know how to avoid the trachea.

Notes
- Product is usually banana flavored and the birds do not mind eating it at all.  
- No egg withdrawal study has been done for this drug. Discard eggs for two weeks after treatment if you’re apprehensive about the possibility of human ingestion.
Sources: Pyrantel Pamoate Dosage
Source: Plumb, Donald C. Plumb’s Veterinary Drug Handbook. 6th ed (calls for 4.5mg/kg)
http://avianmedicine.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/18.pdf (calls for 4.5mg/kg)
http://www.poultrydvm.com/drugs/pyrantel (calls for 7 mg/kg)


Disclaimer: I am not a veterinarian. I am just a guy who wants fact based, solid, and safe answers that I spend a lot of time seeking out. The dosages in the avianmedicine.net literature are confusing since they are condensing down the findings of various studies/dosages into one paragraph, so I believe it is better to go with the manufacturers dosage (which I have done) since they provide much more information on how they determined those dosages, which is how they prove effectiveness and safety to the FDA.

My 3 lady flock, who are all layers now, and new to my urban property some weeks back, worried me constantly as they got the respiratory infection, bacteria or viral or allergy???

I used ABs in their water which thankfully they got used to if I held the container first thing in the morning for them to drink it all.
It was impossible to stop them from drinking other water as we were experiencing spring showers, so anything that had a 'cup' imprint, it would collect rain and they would take it. So hand held morning and night they gulped it up. THANKFULLY, and something improved in all of them, and maybe the is why why gulped it up.

However the total disorder did not leave. So I figured, that the infection was a secondary complain and not the primary complaint.
Then I started wondering about worms. They were feasting on all manner of snails and worms etc, and I learned that they host worm eggs etc. So I observed for specific signs.

It as the gaping of the mouth and stretching of the neck that convinced me that it was gape worm I/they were dealing with.
I dont like drugs or synthesised healing products if I can avoid it. Same for my pets.  But since I was deeply concerned I used a gape wormer, and they refused outright to drink that in their water. I tried and tried. I soaked their food to make mash, and they declined it.

So back to online searching and found Dia.earth powder. Since seasoning their dry food with that daily for a month, they are fit and well again. PHEW. it was a journey of  resisting the 'bad parent" battle - the self scolding and shaming was constant.

I will continue to season their dry food with the Die.earth daily, so they dont get opportunity to be sick like that again.
Their feathers are shiny, and eyes bright, and all now laying, and not complications there.

Do I know the Dia-earth powder was the answer, or did they heal themselves over time?
I cannot say, but I know they had time to be healed before that and they were not getting any better, but not declining either.

Now they are well and no more morning sniffles, and coughs through out the day, and no neck stretching or mouth gaping.


So Dia.earth powder will remain my product of choice for my ladies, for now.

Thank you for clearly explaining the math, formula's and appropriate administration of these two basic dewormers (also commonly used in cats, dogs, and most hoofed livestock - using different regimes).

As much as the avoidance of pharmaceuticals is ideal, allowing suffering to persist while one cycles through a host of "natural" remedies that do not work or make things worse is unfair and unkind, in my opinion.

I know many are fans of DE, and it may or may not work for the host of applications that are touted for it; the determination of effectiveness is not my concern.

At issue for myself is the assumption that "natural" somehow automatically means "safe" or "harmless" which could NOT be further from the truth. It is akin to saying aged manure, mixed into soil and used to grow vegetables means EATING fresh manure is also safe (NOT).  It all depends on how a product is HANDLED that determines it's safe use.

My huge concern is that THIS "cure" (diatomacious earth, DE or DiaE) is finely ground, fossilized sea shells and essentially sand/silica which well, is the precursor to blown glass. As one can imagine (and is well documented in human/veterinary medical journals) these tiny, abrasive particles are incredibly damaging to lungs, especially when the fine dust is inhaled. This is an even bigger issue for birds as the particles do not "clog" individual air sacs IN a lung; birds just have a few GIANT air sacs so can be compromised very easily.

I also know many will dismiss my concerns of DE as they have "used it for years" with no issues. Sadly this IS a cumulative issue, and although the animal or bird may not have obvious damage due to either short lifespan, infrequent use, or luck, it does not detract from the fact that most vets and scientists will corroborate the potentially enormous risk.

At the very least, PLEASE ensure any humans exposed to DE always wear proper lung protection (no, a bandana does NOT suffice), specifically designed to protect against inhalation of fine particles, such as a properly fitted N95 RESPIRATOR - not a static mask, a proper, respirator with replaceable filters. In humans, long term or frequent, successive exposure basically fills your lungs with essentially cement over time (silicosis??) and it is irreversible.

Lorinne Anderson wrote:Thank you for clearly explaining the math, formula's and appropriate administration of these two basic dewormers (also commonly used in cats, dogs, and most hoofed livestock - using different regimes).

As much as the avoidance of pharmaceuticals is ideal, allowing suffering to persist while one cycles through a host of "natural" remedies that do not work or make things worse is unfair and unkind, in my opinion.

I know many are fans of DE, and it may or may not work for the host of applications that are touted for it; the determination of effectiveness is not my concern.

At issue for myself is the assumption that "natural" somehow automatically means "safe" or "harmless" which could NOT be further from the truth. It is akin to saying aged manure, mixed into soil and used to grow vegetables means EATING fresh manure is also safe (NOT).  It all depends on how a product is HANDLED that determines it's safe use.

My huge concern is that THIS "cure" (diatomacious earth, DE or DiaE) is finely ground, fossilized sea shells and essentially sand/silica which well, is the precursor to blown glass. As one can imagine (and is well documented in human/veterinary medical journals) these tiny, abrasive particles are incredibly damaging to lungs, especially when the fine dust is inhaled. This is an even bigger issue for birds as the particles do not "clog" individual air sacs IN a lung; birds just have a few GIANT air sacs so can be compromised very easily.

I also know many will dismiss my concerns of DE as they have "used it for years" with no issues. Sadly this IS a cumulative issue, and although the animal or bird may not have obvious damage due to either short lifespan, infrequent use, or luck, it does not detract from the fact that most vets and scientists will corroborate the potentially enormous risk.

At the very least, PLEASE ensure any humans exposed to DE always wear proper lung protection (no, a bandana does NOT suffice), specifically designed to protect against inhalation of fine particles, such as a properly fitted N95 RESPIRATOR - not a static mask, a proper, respirator with replaceable filters. In humans, long term or frequent, successive exposure basically fills your lungs with essentially cement over time (silicosis??) and it is irreversible.

Thank you for this information, I have not heard or read any warnings like this throughout my research.
Thank you.

So it addresses mites etc in the hen house and for roosts apparently.
And addresses worms apparently in their bodies.
Yet it potentially kills them over time from breathing in the finest of particles.
Drastic and fascinating that the world we live is NOT perfect.

There are consequences to everything we do.
A saying I heard often when I lived in India, locals when met with complications of what is better, this? or that? They would  say "what to do?" and shrug.
We here would say you're damed if you do and damed if you dont.

I am left wondering "what to do?'

My huge concern is that THIS "cure" (diatomacious earth, DE or DiaE) is finely ground, fossilized sea shells and essentially sand/silica which well, is the precursor to blown glass. As one can imagine (and is well documented in human/veterinary medical journals) these tiny, abrasive particles are incredibly damaging to lungs, especially when the fine dust is inhaled. This is an even bigger issue for birds as the particles do not "clog" individual air sacs IN a lung; birds just have a few GIANT air sacs so can be compromised very easily.

I also know many will dismiss my concerns of DE as they have "used it for years" with no issues. Sadly this IS a cumulative issue, and although the animal or bird may not have obvious damage due to either short lifespan, infrequent use, or luck, it does not detract from the fact that most vets and scientists will corroborate the potentially enormous risk.

At the very least, PLEASE ensure any humans exposed to DE always wear proper lung protection (no, a bandana does NOT suffice), specifically designed to protect against inhalation of fine particles, such as a properly fitted N95 RESPIRATOR - not a static mask, a proper, respirator with replaceable filters. In humans, long term or frequent, successive exposure basically fills your lungs with essentially cement over time (silicosis??) and it is irreversible.



Since you posted this Lorinne, I am sorry I have not back online to respond isince reflecting on your comments about DE. (Dia.earth powder).

I realise that some people have used this dry around their coupe, to kill off pests on roost, and in crevices of woodwork etc. So I can see that inhalation of any sort of dust particles is a concern for any airway of the living creature.  (I know the only city that I got sick when I travel on a (years) round world ticket as a young person, was a city that I could see the particles of dust in the sunlight floating through the air. SO yes, particles can carry trouble).

And just now I found it interesting that Paul has an article on this posted among those positioned at the top of the screen/web page. It said that the affects of the DE only work when they the powder is dry.

I find this interesting, as I have not been using it dry.
I have been seasoning my hens as WET, when I serve them breakfast e.g. pellets with water - is that what people call mash??? since it soaks up the water.

Without a doubt, they had been sick maybe 6-8wks after I got them, and I realised it was serious respiratory e.g worms or such. Nothing helped them, and I learned about DE.
Within no time, they all progressively got well and have not been unwell since I have regularly provided a seasoning of this in their wet food of chicken pellets.

So if dry DE is an inhaling risk.
And wet does not work for fleas or mites etc.
Wet must work for the internal critters, as it cleared up the  struggling hens I was nursing with concern.

So there might need to be some more research on WET DE use.

Thank you for sharing your research on this, Matt! Super helpful. I'm in the process of trying to get a fecal float done to see if worms are what's bothering my girls, who just aren't gaining weight like I'd imagine they should be.

Obviously, I'll do whatever is needed to ensure their health and happiness. I must admit though, the idea of having to discard the eggs they work so hard to lay during and after treatment is super tough for me. Does anyone know if it would be safe to feed the (cooked) eggs back to the chickens during that period, since they're already ingesting the drug anyway? Or would it cause them to get too high of a dose or something else I'm not thinking of? Maybe heat could do something weird to any residual chemicals in the eggs?

Sugar Mountain Farm has done tests on different worming methods, and found that one of the best ones was actually garlic powder. That would give you a way to worm them without having to discard the eggs.

Heather Sharpe wrote: I must admit though, the idea of having to discard the eggs they work so hard to lay during and after treatment is super tough for me. Does anyone know if it would be safe to feed the (cooked) eggs back to the chickens during that period, since they're already ingesting the drug anyway?

That is difficult. The manufacturers of these drugs, understandably, do not want to cross into human safety trials and whatnot so it's much easier to just say "no egg withdrawal tests have been done." I would not hesitate to consume the potassium palmoate treated chickens eggs as this is a human safe, human approved product. I see no danger at all in feeding these back to the birds, and indeed I have done that. But again, nobody is going to do a safety study because it's easier for the manufacturers to just say they don't know.

PYRANTAL PALMOATE: this is the same medication used to treat "pinworms" in humans, so it should, theoretically be safe to consume eggs from poultry dosed with this...unless somehow their bodies convert it to something different; that is WAY above my knowledge base!

Ellendra Nauriel wrote:Sugar Mountain Farm has done tests on different worming methods, and found that one of the best ones was actually garlic powder. That would give you a way to worm them without having to discard the eggs.

Sounds interesting for sure - Garlic Powder. I'll have to look into that. Thanks, another opportunity to learn natural  safe ways, of prevention/ cure etc. Since chickens dont have smell/taste (ALTHOUGH they are fussy !) garlic is not an issue for them.

Also, if you want the birds to gain weight because they are meant for eating then I have no input for you.
As I am a vegetarian.

But the Dia.earth. appears in wet form to be my solution for that.
(it is sprinkled and mixed into ( irregularly ) their wet mash (which is water on veg pellets or any form of 'porridge'  that keeps them happy between their first early morning free range and they are lured back in with breakfast, until all have laid their eggs and then they free range for the day after that.

Additionally, regarding fussy-ness of hens, and Dia.Earth in their mash:

Before I reduced their mash to one portion for breakfast as per above routine.
If I replaced a bowl of mash (e.g. two per day) and if it did don't have DE in it they were less likely to eat it.

but it took me a while to figure this out, why they at this bowl of mash with glee and delight, e.g. hoed into it, and not the next bowl of mash.  The bowls were different colours but the same (one black and one white), the only difference I realised was DE seasoning.

So that confirmed to me that they are wanting the minerals or whatever it is that is supporting them wellbeing.  Other folks who meet the chickens, always say what healthy chickens, so I am not convinced that WET DE is inaffective for the internal wellbeing of the hen e.g. against worms etc.

That's my experience.
On several occasions, I have put down a fresh mash with DE in it, and

Thank you for this useful information,!!