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Can I save these pears?

 
Posts: 28
Location: Far Upper Left US
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There is an old abandoned homestead near me that until recently was left open to the public as a natural area. The owners have decided to sell it for development. All that remains of the old homestead are fruit trees, and of those are some of the most delicious pears I have ever tasted. I want to save something of these trees, and have been looking at rescuing some cuttings before the sale goes through and the property is closed off to public use.

I've never grown trees from cuttings, only houseplants, and we are in an apartment currently while shopping for our own property.

Is it too late in the season to take cuttings? Should I try anyway? (Maritime Pacific Northwest zone 8A)

Any tips for growing and take care of the cuttings when it will be a year or more before I can get them in the ground?

Thanks for any insight!
 
pollinator
Posts: 120
Location: Vancouver, Washington
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Yes, you should definitely try!  Before you take the cuttings, make sure you have on hand a very sharp razor knife, rooting hormone, and peat and perlite for the potting soil.  Find the youngest, most flexible branches for the cuttings and take a number of them to increase your chances. That will get you started. I know you can find lots of instructions online for rooting cuttings so I won't go into more detail here. I'd also try air layering some branches as I think that might take better.  Here's some good instructions for that: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/air-layer-pear-trees-41283.html. Air layering does take a while but the property may not sell right away anyways.
As far as taking care of the cuttings for their first year, you should be fine as long as they are kept in a sunny location, properly watered and fertilized, and uppotted as needed.  You don't want them to outgrow their pots and get rootbound.
One thing I'm not sure of is how much the pear seedlings need to be outside during the winter.  Pears do need a winter chill to bud and fruit, but it would probably would be better if they didn't bud and fruit their first year anyways. If they did bud, I would nip the buds off the first year to force the plant to focus on growing both below and above ground. Anyways, I think you'd have to root them in the house so they don't lose their leaves before they've rooted.
Another thing to consider is that the pear trees you want to propagate may well be on grafted root stock. I would try to figure out what kind of pear it is to see it it's root stock is susceptible to any diseases.  There are some apps you could download to identify plants and your county extension office could also help. If it is on grafted stock, that may well have affected how big the pear trees grew, meaning that when you grow a pear tree from a cutting, you could end up with a much bigger tree than you expected. That would be another reason to try to figure out what kind of pear it is.
Good luck!
 
gardener
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Location: the mountains of western nc
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if it was me i’d buy rootstocks and graft twigs from the tree(s?) you want to save some of. i would expect a better success rate than cuttings.
 
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Pear cuttings are among the easiest fruit tree cuttings or among any cuttings really at all to root that I've ever tried. I found that they can grow MASSIVE roots in just a bit more than a couple of weeks of being in closed ziplock bags indoors in a window with moist but not wet soil(too wet rots the cuttings, too dry can dry the cuttings out and hinder root development). Really they are just that simple to grow from cuttings when done right. I've taken cuttings of several varieties just a bit more than two weeks ago that I put in ziplock bags and they have all already grown freakishly big roots. I believe the best cuttings are taken from semi-softwood aka this current year's growth, but any kind works.

Here are a few examples of my pear cuttings that have already rooted:

The ziplock bag method that I've tried for these cuttings: https://i.imgur.com/EY1HPL4.jpg

Roots of a small cutting that I had initially decided to throw away due mostly being hardwood that I cut off a softwood cutting: https://i.imgur.com/rqSc8Se.jpg , https://i.imgur.com/mzv7dws.jpg

Different cutting from a different variety from another bag: https://i.imgur.com/7JxvbuA.jpg, https://i.imgur.com/pQFuxwM.jpg, https://i.imgur.com/WEYHIJB.jpg

Here's from a third bag with yet another variety, notice how it has even started to callous and grow roots even on the top due to the high humidity levels inside the ziplock bag: https://i.imgur.com/i6CJfEB.jpg, https://i.imgur.com/QQRx7P0.jpg

These are from ziplock bags with light seedling/cactus soil mix that I kept 100% closed(seems to root faster when 100% closed, potentially higher chance of mold though, you could leave a small hole open also but they may take longer to root), you don't want too heavy of a soil when dealing with cuttings because that increases the risk of mold and damp off. It's important to keep the soil most/damp but not wet and at the same time not too dry. If you need to water the soil use a spray bottle. In order to have a high chance of succeeding with cuttings you MUST keep them in a plastic bag/plastic bag around them ie a pot or growing them in a transparent container ie a plastic bucket or bottle or whatever and a firm, well-closing lid or plastic foil/plastic wrap on top. When people try to make cuttings just by sticking them in a soil that's when you will a lot of times completely fail with all or most of them. You really need the plastic bag type of thing or similar ie glass bottle with a lid to keep high humidity levels and prevent the cutting from drying out and also to encourage root formation.
 
pollinator
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Location: Ban Mak Ya Thailand Zone 11-12
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If they do well where they are growing air layering might be the solution even I am surprised that a pear can be propagated by air layering.

In Germany we go always for grafting onto a suitable rootstock.
 
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