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help me tweak my vermicomposting

 
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I live in a townhouse with a garage that never freezes, so my best option for composting is vermicompost. Plus I just love worms, so that works out.

I don't have access to good leaves, so when I started I mostly fed them peat and kitchen scraps. They liked that.

Then we got a pet rabbit, and when I added the bedding to the worm bin (I only had one bin at that point) it really reduced the population. I didn't realize how dry the pine shavings were, even with the litter box that was "wet," but wet with ammonia pee, the woms didn't like that either. So I pulled the bin apart, took out the stuff they didn't like, and put the remaining worms into a separate bin with their normal peat and scraps to get them jump started again.

Meanwhile, I made a bin of the rabbit cage litter (pine shavings and shredded paper, hay, poop, and the litter box which has pine pellets--breaks down to sawdust--and urine). I bought an em-1 type product called ProBio https://www.scdprobiotics.com/collections/probiotic-mother-cultures/products/probio-balance-original and started "pre-treating" the rabbit litter with that for a few weeks before adding and mixing carefully with the new worm bins.

I had a bin of treated litter that had been sitting for a long time, so I threw a few worms in there to see if they could handle it. Holy crap, they could not! One was half dead and one had an ulcer on its side. Poor things, I threw them back in a good bin.

Next new development, we got another rabbit, and I had a ton of work papers that needed shredding, so I bought a crosscut shredder that makes really small, fluffy shreds. So now I am bedding the rabbits on mostly paper (the pine isn't good for them anyway, but I'll use up the little that's left.) The litterbox pellets are still pine, because they're SO cheap. Is this bad? Should I suck it up and buy hardwood pellets? I also got some biochar, and I added some to the existing worm boxes and some for the litterboxes. So the biochar will get peed on, then innoculated with ProBio solution, then added to the worms eventually.

So now with the addition of lots of shredded paper, the worms seem to be happy with the cage litter. Even with the cage litter being relatively fresh (not sitting long treated with the ProBio solution), if I bury the kitchen scraps with a big wad of rabbit litter and shredded paper (and a bit of peat) the worms seem happy. The new bin is thriving. I wonder, is it the fluffiness of the paper mixture that they like, or does the paper absorb ammonia from the urine? Or is it that they don't like moving their little bodies through the straight pine products, even if they're wet?

Another question, for the bin ProBio-treated of rabbit litter (without paper) that almost killed a couple worms, should I be stirring that or adding anything else to make it break down faster? If left to its own devices, the top gets a fuzzy white fungus, particularly on the rabbit poop. I've attached a picture. I can eventually mix it into other bins, but I'm just kind of wondering what's going on, and how I can do any of these processes better, both in terms of worm health and the  overall finished product of the compost.
PXL_20220321_201410568.MP.jpg
The treated litterbox/cage mixture--with white fuzzies growing on top
The treated litterbox/cage mixture--with white fuzzies growing on top
PXL_20220321_201428893.MP.jpg
The happy bin--food scraps buried in treated cage mix, paper shreds, biochar, and peat
The happy bin--food scraps buried in treated cage mix, paper shreds, biochar, and peat
 
gardener
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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Pine pellets are not recommended for robots because they might chew on them and the aromatics are supposedly bad for them.
My own rabbit waste stream is pee hydrated hardwood pellets, wasted hay and their turds.
I top dress my plants with this, no composting needed.
I think you should do that with the treated bedding, and maybe skip the treatments in the future.
Seems like rabbit waste will continue to be something the worms can only handle in small quantities.
 
gardener
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If I remember correctly from when we first researched for pet rabbit, pine shavings ar definitely toxic.. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2926083/ we have a feeding box above their litter tray.  It's filled with shredded newspapers and then the rabbit stands on a wire cooling rack designed for baking.   You probably need a deeper and bigger set up if you have multiple rabbits, but so long as they're not standing on the wet paper it does a fine job and then we dump it in the garden.
 
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Julie Ann, worms in the real worm world can only suck damp soil and mushy food and poop "soupy meal" through their bodies.  They don't have teeth, so everything has to be smooshy for them.   They want it damp and dark and full of food.  The paper is thin enough that it gets soggy, breaks down, and falls apart, mostly from food scrap juices, it just keeps the bin from turning anerobic and smelling badly.   I use worms for lots of things, and they handle it all so well there is no bad odor.

Their environment also has to be smooth and comfortable.  You won't find earthworms in sand because sand is sharp and jagged and painful to them.  It's also not damp enough, doesn't have nutrition for them.   When people put diatomaceous earth in soil to stop some bugs, the worms leave because it's too jagged and painful.

But wood shavings are wood and are not only toxic in that situation, but would overwhelm the nutritional ratio of food scaprs to carbon.  Shavings cannot turn into mushy stuff for a year or more under the exact right composting circumstances.  And then the food/poop component of compost is really the worm nutrition.

The only things that eat wood are bugs we don't want to live with, termites, wood-eating bees, some beetles, etc.

Worms absolutely love poop.  They find it in stables and in the soil and pretty much everywhere in nature.  In Canada there are some areas that use vermicomposting for their sewage.  There are some threads at this site that talk about using it in a gardening situation.  Worm sewage boxes work because the water flows through them, making things damp, leaving behind what worms love.

If you want to ramp up your bin you can add damp rabbit poop, without the litter, or a cup or two of dap chicken or steer manure from bags at the nursery department of the big DIY stores, or just more kitchen scraps.  





 
pollinator
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Location: Indiana
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I always use a LOT of carbon in my worm bins.  I have three outdoor piles ( 8'x8'x4') of wood chips, coffee grounds and filters and kitchen scraps and the worms are thriving.  I have several boxes indoors of decaying wood chips and worms that I add kitchen scraps to and they are surviving.  Then I have my good indoor bins that are shredded cardboard & paper and kitchen scraps.  When I add decaying wood chips to those bins the worms always congregate in the wood chips.  They eat the microbes and fungi.  In the process they slurp mushy food but they can also slurp it off of wood chips.  I tend to go super heavy on carbon as I know when it gets wet, the microbes and fungi will turn it into worm food.  Extra bedding (paper, cardboard, wood chips, etc.) will give you some wiggle room (I'm a dad!) if you happen to over or under feed.
 
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