help, how do I draft a facing or whatever this is called?

How do I draft facings or part-lining or whatever it's called for this princess seam dress?

So, I took my block pattern, made it princess and longer and after a mockup (or four) I have a princess seam dress pattern.  It's long panels and a sleeveless pinafore.  But, the wool-blend I want to make this from is itchy, I do NOT want to bias bind the edge and it's too bulky a fabric to do a double hem for the neck and arm holes.  I don't want to line the whole dress - that would be too heavy.  

I think the solution is called facing.  

Sometimes facing is just the line around the opening.  Sometimes facing is like a semi-lining from the waist up.  Sometimes it's somewhere in between.

Since I've drafted the pattern, I don't have any pattern to borrow from.   But I did leave 1/2 inch of cloth around the neck and armhole to make this with.

Anyone know how to translate what I'm asking into something google understands?  Or maybe you know a good tutorial?  

Do you want to do a Bodice Lining?

sort of.  

I'm not sure.  

The example is for a dress with a waist seam which mine doesn't have, so I'm not sure how to work the lining fabric bottom edge - would it just hang loose?  

But it would make the arm and neck edges nicer.  

I have lined a lot of dresses with a waist.

Since your dress does not have a waist I would say to go about 6 inches below the waist and stop or maybe it would work to stop at the waist.

Turn the bottom edge to do a 1/4 inch "hem".

The pattern for the dress would be the pattern for the bodice lining.

r ranson wrote:sort of.  

I'm not sure.  

The example is for a dress with a waist seam which mine doesn't have, so I'm not sure how to work the lining fabric bottom edge - would it just hang loose?  

But it would make the arm and neck edges nicer.  

Hem it toward the inside, end it wherever works for you, if it is just for arms and neck, you don't need it long. If it's itchy all the way down, put it to where your undergarments will hit. Tack it careful and invisible to keep it still. I usually run a line of stitching down the seams to hold it in place.

I wore pinafore dress in my teens in the winter: lined, wide v neck and paired with sweaters and leggings. It was not supposed to be worn by itself because of extra ease for layers underneath. I am wondering why it would be itchy in your case. Is the neckline very high so it sits against the neck?

Anyway, a full lining will be helpful to extend the lifespan of this wool blend dress and to make the neckline and armholes stable and neat. Also it will be more comfortable to wear, otherwise the skirt tends to creep up against the leggings when you walk.

The simplest way is to cut out lining pieces using the shell pattern. There are minor adjustments to make though: 1) trim off a few millimeters off the neckline and armholes so the shell fabric will slightly roll over and the lining won't be visible from the outside; 2) shorten the hemline of the skirt part.

There are different ways to attach the lining to the shell, some can be complicated and need a different order of construction and you have to take the finished shell apart. If you use both machine and hand sewing, then the easiest way is to sew the necklines together wrong sides together in the round. Edge stitch to secure the SA with lining. Turn the garment over and hand finish the armhole seams. Stitch down just a couple inches underarm along the side seams but the rest of lining is hanging free. Made some thread chains and tack the lining to the shell near the hem.

I took my bodice part and marked one inch down from where I think my waist is on the pattern, then cut out the lining bit from some cabbage.

It feels like it's going to be a lot more lining than I need, but it's somewhere to start.  I would love to know some of the other options because if this dress works out I want to make a couple more.  

Although I don't think I'll be wearing them without an underlayer.  I still need some way to make the edges of the neck and arm tidy so the fabric doesn't fall apart.  Bias binding is what I do for thinner cloth, but it just doesn't look right for this.  

If the shell fabric is bulky, the facing fabric can be a thinner one with matching color. Interface if necessary. I prefer all-in-one facing to separate neck and armhole facings. They tend to flip out and not laying flat. I can't find some summer dress where is technique is more commonly used. Here is a doll sheath dress I made with the one-piece facing and a back zipper.

Finish seams on the lining or no?

In favour,  I have to Finish the seams on the outer fabric anyway because it falls apart and I like things to match.

Against,  added bulk and time and it won't be washed much, maybe hand washed cold once a year.  Mostly it will be spot cleaned  because the wool blend sample didn't like being wet.

I got confused about the order.  I sewed the shoulders,  leaving the sides open for reasons.   Sewed the neck of the lining to the outer fabric.   Then realised that if I just sew the armholes, how could I turn it right side out?

Maybe this?

I've watched a few tutorials on the burrito method.  It looks like it will work, except none of them explain how I can understitch the armholes.

After the first armhole (either before or after turning right side out) they all say "now you can understitch the armhole if you want to".  But none of them show this.  

Should I just do it and it will be obvious when I get there?  

I tried it.
I hate it.

Maybe the burrito method would be fine for a shirt, but not a full length thick wool dress.  The arm strap is too small a tube to stuff half a dress through.

I hope all the tearing sounds were stitches and not fabric.  

it was just the seams that ripped thank goodness.  And it seems it was only the shoulder seam of the lining - so I still had to sew them up by hand.  The very thing I was trying to avoid.

Oh well.  Live and learn.  

Perhaps this video might help? Happy sewing

https://youtu.be/P6mE1Gp-xrw

To make a facing turn the item inside out. Trace the outline as full or as short as you prefer on newsprint or any other thin paper. Make a front and back piece or two pieces for the back if it has fasteners interrupting the back, such as a zipper. Also make the pattern 1\2 inch larger than the dress on all edges you will sew.
 Use this pattern to cut out the facing. Sew the front to the back at the sides. This will give you a continuous piece of facing with an interruption where the zipper is in the back. If the dress has one. This seam should be basted shut with larger stitches.
Now fit the facing over the dress sew together, pinning and or basting first. Make sure the insides of the facing and dress are together.
You can finish the bottom edge of the facing or simply sew two lines of stitching along the edge to keep it from unraveling. On the armholes you will need to clip the curve so the cloth lays down.
Any older pattern you might find at a yard sale or second hand store would include this and sometimes would even include an interfacing which is sewn to the wrong side of the facing to stiffen it and strengthen the finished product.