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Tapping a deep spring with very low gradient

 
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Hey everyone! New to permies and super excited to interact with everyone here. I am in the process of building an off grid homestead and am looking to tap into the amazing high flow seep spring I have on my property. I’ve seen many videos of people creating a plastic dam of sorts and filling with gravel etc but it appears to me this process would work best with gradient… something I have very little of. In my mind I thought a sort of shallow dug well could work to collect enough water to throw a well pump into and pump to a pressure tank near my cabin. Trying to entertain all ideas and understand what option will serve me best.

Also which option will serve me best as a potential year round solution (living in southern maine)

Thanks so much in advance for any help!!

Tyler
 
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Your question is not clear.
Some questions and comments to you;
- is the spring higher than your house on the property?
- a shallow well will pump empty very quickly.
- what are you calling a pressure tank?
- what volume is this pressure tank?
 
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your situation might be perfect for a spring box. usually a stone and mortar or concrete construction unless you have a non porus soil like clay in the area. ii dont think the world needs any more plastic and stone and mortar, concrete or clay will last forever, worry free. as far as moving the water without a slope or gravity assist you will need a pump. ram pumps are pretty straight forward and might work in your situation.
ive seen spring boxes as small as a kiddie pool and as large as a small swimming pool.
not knowing what the terrain is like or where the spring comes from its usually best to disturb the surrounding countryside, trees, rocks, soil, as little as possible.
cut down the forest or bring in heavy equipment to change things around and the spring might become contaminated or even disappear.
your very fortunate these days to have property with a clean natural water source, do whatever you have to to protect and preserve it.
 
Tyler Westfall
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John C Daley wrote:Your question is not clear.
Some questions and comments to you;
- is the spring higher than your house on the property?
- a shallow well will pump empty very quickly.
- what are you calling a pressure tank?
- what volume is this pressure tank?



Thank you! Sorry for my lack of knowledge. The spring is lower than my house

Yes that’s my understanding, I’m trying to create some flow from it to see what GPM it’s producing
and to encourage the water to keep flowing.

Just a standard pressurized well tank (so the pump doesn’t have to work consistently.

I haven’t purchased it yet, trying to figure out what type of system to use first and how everything will function together.

 
Tyler Westfall
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bruce Fine wrote:your situation might be perfect for a spring box. usually a stone and mortar or concrete construction unless you have a non porus soil like clay in the area. ii dont think the world needs any more plastic and stone and mortar, concrete or clay will last forever, worry free. as far as moving the water without a slope or gravity assist you will need a pump. ram pumps are pretty straight forward and might work in your situation.
ive seen spring boxes as small as a kiddie pool and as large as a small swimming pool.
not knowing what the terrain is like or where the spring comes from its usually best to disturb the surrounding countryside, trees, rocks, soil, as little as possible.
cut down the forest or bring in heavy equipment to change things around and the spring might become contaminated or even disappear.
your very fortunate these days to have property with a clean natural water source, do whatever you have to to protect and preserve it.

FA6B8A43-49B0-462B-86B6-9980B460030D.jpeg
Red line shows water level yesterday when it was just a hole with no trench
Red line shows water level yesterday when it was just a hole with no trench
29257637-7496-40E5-A410-0BA2A77FF25F.jpeg
[Thumbnail for 29257637-7496-40E5-A410-0BA2A77FF25F.jpeg]
FC7F0E04-56D8-4625-8212-8986463106C6.jpeg
You can see water has started to fill the trench without going through the exit pipe.
You can see water has started to fill the trench without going through the exit pipe.
 
Tyler Westfall
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bruce Fine wrote:your situation might be perfect for a spring box. usually a stone and mortar or concrete construction unless you have a non porus soil like clay in the area. ii dont think the world needs any more plastic and stone and mortar, concrete or clay will last forever, worry free. as far as moving the water without a slope or gravity assist you will need a pump. ram pumps are pretty straight forward and might work in your situation.
ive seen spring boxes as small as a kiddie pool and as large as a small swimming pool.
not knowing what the terrain is like or where the spring comes from its usually best to disturb the surrounding countryside, trees, rocks, soil, as little as possible.
cut down the forest or bring in heavy equipment to change things around and the spring might become contaminated or even disappear.
your very fortunate these days to have property with a clean natural water source, do whatever you have to to protect and preserve it.



bruce Fine wrote:your situation might be perfect for a spring box. usually a stone and mortar or concrete construction unless you have a non porus soil like clay in the area. ii dont think the world needs any more plastic and stone and mortar, concrete or clay will last forever, worry free. as far as moving the water without a slope or gravity assist you will need a pump. ram pumps are pretty straight forward and might work in your situation.
ive seen spring boxes as small as a kiddie pool and as large as a small swimming pool.
not knowing what the terrain is like or where the spring comes from its usually best to disturb the surrounding countryside, trees, rocks, soil, as little as possible.
cut down the forest or bring in heavy equipment to change things around and the spring might become contaminated or even disappear.
your very fortunate these days to have property with a clean natural water source, do whatever you have to to protect and preserve it.



Thank you Bruce!

So I think I need to better explain the whole situation. Downhill a ways the water collects into a series of streams and pools but I wanted to find the source so I went uphill and started digging, found a couple sites that were dry went down the hill a bit and found a spot I could hardly keep from filling with water as I dug. So I dug a larger hole in that area and it filled right up with about 2.5’ of water (as deep as the hole was minus 6” or so.

The problem I’m running into is that this part of the land is very close to flat (ever so slight downhill slope away from the spring). In most tutorials I’ve seen they have enough gradient to just dig out a dam and that the head wall is significantly uphill of the outlets. So what I’ve just done as a test is dug a very long trench gently sloping away from the hole and dammed up the end that comes into the hole with clay (yes we have a lot of clay in the soil here). Before creating that dam I placed a PVC pipe (as an outlet) and then put the dam over and around it. My hope is that the water will fill up the hole enough to reach the outlet and start flowing downhill (if I managed to get the pipe to be angled downhill enough as I said the gradient is very slight). This will allow me to collect water and possibly figure out the GPM of the spring in that area.

My questions range from is this the correct approach for my situation? Is there another method I’m not considering such as digging a deeper hole (8+ feet) and putting a well pump inside of that? How can I best make my solution winter proof? How can I utilize a spring box if the gradient is so poor? Do I need to create some sort of head wall? Also, I’m concerned that as I started digging the trench I hit water quite quickly and in doing so it seemed to take away from the water going into my hole (path of least resistance issue?) not sure what the solution is for that.

I have attached a picture of the site.

Thank you again!
 
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John Daily wrote:- what are you calling a pressure tank?



I think this is what he's talking about. Explanation of a pressure tank used in plumbing a well to a home.

John is our resident rainwater catchment expert. Tyler, maybe checking into the links in John's signature would give you additional solutions.

Oh, and welcome to Permies.
 
John C Daley
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Thanks Joylynn, the 'storage' part of the title confused me.
Tyler, there is nothing out of the ordinary about your spring and its location.
You just work with nature as you find it.
A few more points for consideration;
- create a spring box as described
- allow overflow to continue the life cycle that existed before you dug holes.
- GPM are not important, you install a small pump, with no pressure tank, that may take a bit longer to push the water to your water
 to a large tank above your house, on the hill. [ large tanks allow settlement time for water to allow self cleaning ]
 Just allow the water to enter via tank top.
- Then connect the house to the tank with 11/2" feeder main and use another pressure pump if required with a pressure tank.Also consider capturing rainwater off and roof around and hold it in the large tank. I recommend a 5000 Gal. tank as a minimum.
 
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Generally, with seeps you want to collect from the biggest area possible and go to a centralized down hill spot. Most times they do this using perforated 4 inch pipe. Basically they dig trenches radiating out from center point a foot to 18 inches deep. Ideally rock is used to bed around the pipe, but from a big area it collects water, then funnels it to a central spot, often times well tiles which are four feet in diameter, and four feet high concrete rings. Dug down into the ground as deep as you want, you stack 1,, 2 3 of them, or whatever you can, with the bottom covered over with small rock to the water stays clean. In other words, it collects the water from a broad area into a sump if you will. Then this water is run to the house.

Its mentioned that there is not much of a grade at this site, but a steep grade is not needed. As long as the home is downhill in any way from the collection point, you can have water. The steeper the grade, the deeper down the water can be tapped, and the greater the water pressure will be. This is important because you can then run a trench for the water line so it does not freeze in the winter.


I will add this though, properly developing a seep is well worth doing to the best of your ability. We as humans really need fresh water and only when the water stops do people realize how dependent we are upon it. Its worth it to put in as many collection pipes as possible, and to line with landscape fabric and clean crushed rock to keep out sediment. The deeper your well tiles go, the cooler and more volume of collected water you will have. You will never regret doing it right, but surely will if you try and do it the quick and easy way.
 
bruce Fine
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one of my neighbors has a spring box its about 8'x6'x about 2 to 3 feet deep. he has a submersible 4" well pump laying sidewaysin the spring box to pump the water into a pressure tank and up a bit of a hill to the house. they keep the concrete spring box covered with roofing tin panels and the water stays clean the pump is suspended above the base of the spring box so dirt can settle to the bottom.
this spring box is concrete about 3" thick. it is fed from a black plastic pipe that goes halfway up a mountain to where the spring is. its probably at least 600' of black poly pipe feeding the concrete box
 
Tyler Westfall
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John C Daley wrote:Thanks Joylynn, the 'storage' part of the title confused me.
Tyler, there is nothing out of the ordinary about your spring and its location.
You just work with nature as you find it.
A few more points for consideration;
- create a spring box as described
- allow overflow to continue the life cycle that existed before you dug holes.
- GPM are not important, you install a small pump, with no pressure tank, that may take a bit longer to push the water to your water
 to a large tank above your house, on the hill. [ large tanks allow settlement time for water to allow self cleaning ]
 Just allow the water to enter via tank top.
- Then connect the house to the tank with 11/2" feeder main and use another pressure pump if required with a pressure tank.Also consider capturing rainwater off and roof around and hold it in the large tank. I recommend a 5000 Gal. tank as a minimum.



Thank you so much for this info John! Could you explain to me how I would go about water collection for the spring box? Is digging a hole as I have the right solution or am I better off doing a bunch of trenches as suggested by Steve?

I like the idea of the spring box and Bruce’s comment below sounds like something very feasible for my application, the only issue I don’t see resolved is the water collection aspect as (as mentioned) my spring is a seep and does not come out of one particular source that I can find. But as soon as I dig a hole 1-2 feet down it promptly fills with water and then downhill from this area there are larger pools of water that trickle downhill until eventually filling a 5 acre pond (created by beavers damming the out flowing stream), and then the creek flowing away from the pond.

Would I just place the spring box as significantly downhill of the collection sites as I can and use multiple collection pipes fanning out as suggested by Steve? I have a well pump I could mount sideways into a spring box as you mentioned.

Also, any suggestions on how to dig a hole deep enough for the spring box if it keeps filling in with water so quickly?
 
Tyler Westfall
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bruce Fine wrote:one of my neighbors has a spring box its about 8'x6'x about 2 to 3 feet deep. he has a submersible 4" well pump laying sidewaysin the spring box to pump the water into a pressure tank and up a bit of a hill to the house. they keep the concrete spring box covered with roofing tin panels and the water stays clean the pump is suspended above the base of the spring box so dirt can settle to the bottom.
this spring box is concrete about 3" thick. it is fed from a black plastic pipe that goes halfway up a mountain to where the spring is. its probably at least 600' of black poly pipe feeding the concrete box



Bruce, this sounds like a perfect solution for my situation. The only questions I have that remain are how does my water collection system differ from that of your friends with a specific site significantly uphill if the spring box? And what area does your neighbor live in? I’m curious if freezing temps in Maine would pose an issue for this type of system.
 
Tyler Westfall
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[quote=Steve Zoma]Generally, with seeps you want to collect from the biggest area possible and go to a centralized down hill spot. Most times they do this using perforated 4 inch pipe. Basically they dig trenches radiating out from center point a foot to 18 inches deep. Ideally rock is used to bed around the pipe, but from a big area it collects water, then funnels it to a central spot, often times well tiles which are four feet in diameter, and four feet high concrete rings. Dug down into the ground as deep as you want, you stack 1,, 2 3 of them, or whatever you can, with the bottom covered over with small rock to the water stays clean. In other words, it collects the water from a broad area into a sump if you will. Then this water is run to the house.

Its mentioned that there is not much of a grade at this site, but a steep grade is not needed. As long as the home is downhill in any way from the collection point, you can have water. The steeper the grade, the deeper down the water can be tapped, and the greater the water pressure will be. This is important because you can then run a trench for the water line so it does not freeze in the winter.


I will add this though, properly developing a seep is well worth doing to the best of your ability. We as humans really need fresh water and only when the water stops do people realize how dependent we are upon it. Its worth it to put in as many collection pipes as possible, and to line with landscape fabric and clean crushed rock to keep out sediment. The deeper your well tiles go, the cooler and more volume of collected water you will have. You will never regret doing it right, but surely will if you try and do it the quick and easy way.[/quote]

Steve,
This is super helpful. I feel like this water collection method is more applicable to my situation. How many collection pipes do you recommend installing? Are you saying 12-18” past the water table line? I think 12-18” deep may not be deep enough or could also risk ground water contamination.

For the spring box how do you dig deep enough for it with the water consistently filling in?

Any suggestions on what material to use as a cutoff wall?


 
Tyler Westfall
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Steve Zoma wrote:Generally, with seeps you want to collect from the biggest area possible and go to a centralized down hill spot. Most times they do this using perforated 4 inch pipe. Basically they dig trenches radiating out from center point a foot to 18 inches deep. Ideally rock is used to bed around the pipe, but from a big area it collects water, then funnels it to a central spot, often times well tiles which are four feet in diameter, and four feet high concrete rings. Dug down into the ground as deep as you want, you stack 1,, 2 3 of them, or whatever you can, with the bottom covered over with small rock to the water stays clean. In other words, it collects the water from a broad area into a sump if you will. Then this water is run to the house.

Its mentioned that there is not much of a grade at this site, but a steep grade is not needed. As long as the home is downhill in any way from the collection point, you can have water. The steeper the grade, the deeper down the water can be tapped, and the greater the water pressure will be. This is important because you can then run a trench for the water line so it does not freeze in the winter.


I will add this though, properly developing a seep is well worth doing to the best of your ability. We as humans really need fresh water and only when the water stops do people realize how dependent we are upon it. Its worth it to put in as many collection pipes as possible, and to line with landscape fabric and clean crushed rock to keep out sediment. The deeper your well tiles go, the cooler and more volume of collected water you will have. You will never regret doing it right, but surely will if you try and do it the quick and easy way.



Steve,
This is super helpful. I feel like this water collection method is more applicable to my situation. How many collection pipes do you recommend installing? Are you saying 12-18” past the water table line? I think 12-18” deep may not be deep enough or could also risk ground water contamination.

For the spring box how do you dig deep enough for it with the water consistently filling in?

Any suggestions on what material to use as a cutoff wall?
 
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