Need designer for thermal battery greenhouse

I’m in the middle of backfilling around my straw bale house and realized that I’ll want to use geothermal heating & cooling for my future attached greenhouse and should bury the pipes now. But where & how much pipe, size & configuration— no time to research. Looking for someone who can do the calculations for optimal & has practical implementation experience. Thanks.
Lawren

To better help whats your greenhouse lenght, width and height and how far down will it be suncken?
What is the climate for your city (Heating and Cooling, etc), aka what's your location?

Assumed Greenhouse Givens:
Height: 6ft
Lenght: 60ft
Width: 20ft

Fans Needed: 1 per climate battery per 2,000sqft = 2
Volume Air change per Hour: 5
CFM for fan =  (L*W*H*5/hr*1/60) = 600cfm

Total Feet of Tubing: (# of Layers * Lenght/30ft * Width/1.5 * 11) = 3*2*30*11 = 1980ft

Tubing Cost: 1980*Unit Price = $1500
Manifold Cost: 4*Unit Price = $1000
Fan Cost: 2*Unit Price = $300
Controller Cost: $1000

S. Benji are you blowing air along the buried tubes?

John C Daley wrote:S. Benji are you blowing air along the buried tubes?

Yes, the fans are blowing air through the buried perforated pipes in the ground.


Burried Piping = $2,500
Blower = $300
Controller/Thermostats = $1,000
Frame+Polycarbonate:Lenght*$250 = $15,000
Metal Siding for 3Walls = (Lenght+Width)* UnitPrice
Insulation for 3Walls = (Lenght+Width)* UnitPrice
Door + Window =
Misc =

It's small: 30' x 12', and about 1/3 of it is 2 stories, and it's ground level attached to the south side of the house.  (Which means there's a whole wall of clay plaster mass on the north side of the greenhouse, 1 1/2" thick.)  We get -28C in winter and +35 in summer but those extremes are swinging wider every year.  The technology I really want to use, though, is something that I don't know the name of:  it pumps the heat from the high point of the greenhouse in the summer with a fan, into ducting under the floor.  The center of the floor is insulated, but not the edges.  The heat slowly seeps through the mass during the course of the summer and into the uninsulated parts by winter, and from there into the greenhouse.  Can anyone tell me what this technology is called, or point me to someone who has built more than one?  Thanks!

Just a few FYI's and thoughts (from being raised as a pipe fitter, and building a climate battery greenhouse a couple years go, Zone 61):

I have an issue with a 6" header pipe as above: resistance = need bigger fans = use more electricity...   I figured the min. size header (and riser) pipes to be 10", 12" HDPE WITH A SMOOTH INNER LINING was just about the same cost as 10" and a FRACTION of the cost of PVC, so we ran 12" header/riser pipes. I used 10" fans, AC Infinity and they did NOT move the needed volume of air, had to put a "pull" fan on the outlet slaved to the 'push' fan up at the peak of the roof.

I used the spreadsheet from (the guy who did all the commercial Canadian climate battery houses), and should have had about 15% excess winter heating and 8% excess summer cooling...  winter heating is working great, I do need a small (8") automatic exhaust fan to avoid overheating on warm winter days with full sun...   the internal temp. dropped to 47 for a couple hour once over 2 winters, next lowest 'low' was 54. Even on cloudy winter days always 70's.  Summer: it works FOR A GREENHOUSE, might hit 92-93 on sunny days which is great for a greenhouse, but bit too hot to work there comfortably..  we now schedule greenhouse work for early mornings...  

Too hot to grow good salad greens in the winter !  (We have a hoophouse going up this fall for 2 planing beds (winter greens!) and 2 rows of fruit trees)

Papaya, Banana growing well and fruiting; the citrus trees and avocado are growing well, citrus is flowing now. Mango has not done well. We move the figs in for the winter and have an early crop.  

S Bengi wrote:

John C Daley wrote:S. Benji are you blowing air along the buried tubes?

Yes, the fans are blowing air through the buried perforated pipes in the ground.

We're just starting down this road, as we consider moving from Phoenix, AZ (where we have too much heat - hardiness zone around 9b), to Kirksville, MO where there's much less (hardiness zone 5b)! We're convinced we're going to need a greenhouse and have been tossing up between a walipini style greenhouse with no heating or a more above-ground style with a climate battery. I just watched an interesting video from a guy who has (had at the time) 2 fairly large houses warmed with climate batteries - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acByGuSMALc. He talks about the pros and cons. A walipini also has some drawbacks. Considerably more excavation which is permanent, needing retaining. Potential blocking of sun/light to growing areas, especially during lower sun angles. Finally, drainage due to it being below ground level. While we love the walipini idea, we're yet to be convinced that it is what we want/need.

Sorry, a lot of preamble to give you our thinking before I ask the actual question! In your image, I note that each layer of piping have different inlets and outlets. Is this for some reason, rather than having air circulate throught the entire network in one long tube? I am guessing it's to do with the ability to push air through the longer series of tubing as opposed to 2 shorter runs.

I believe Rob Avis of Verge Permaculture has a calculator tool for this. I wonder if he uses similar source material/data to S Bengi? Rob has some excellent videos and podcast appearances as well, and he seems to know his stuff as an experienced engineer.