Peach tree replacement timing

Hello,
I planted an unknown variety of peach tree back in about 2007/2008 and it lasted until the winter of 2014, when we had a cold winter that killed it. I planted a Garnet Beauty in the same spot in spring 2015 and that lasted until this winter of 2023, and we had another cold winter snap with heavy winds, which has killed it. I'm looking at planting a Reliance peach tree in the same spot since it has colder tolerance down to zone 4 per my nursery's catalogue.

I'm wondering if planting the new tree this year will cause any issues? I don't believe the trees died from any fungal or bacterial issues that may linger in the soil, so I am thinking it will be safe to replant this year. May I please ask for folks to share their thoughts? I'm not very experienced so I am open to viewpoints, please!

Is there a place on your property where you could shelter a tree with surrounding vegetation or walls or a hugel or something to retain or reflect heat? It sounds like insulating it from the cold is going to be your #1 priority.

I have several dwarf peach trees, but it's very easy to grow such things here!

I have read in a peach manual that it is not good to plant peach where peach has already grown. They advised replanting in a new location.

Rachel Lindsay wrote:Is there a place on your property where you could shelter a tree with surrounding vegetation or walls or a hugel or something to retain or reflect heat? It sounds like insulating it from the cold is going to be your #1 priority.

I have several dwarf peach trees, but it's very easy to grow such things here!

Thank you for sharing this tip, it seems right on the money to me!

i had a peach tree pass of rabbit damage and ended up replanting another peach - an Iowa peach/non-rootstock/cold-hardy - in the same spot and it was fine. i think the bigger issue might be finding a peach that can handle Zone 4. i also co-planted with garlic and Russian comfrey because my soil can get a bit soggy and is rather clay-ey. plus, of course, liberal compost.

Christine Herrmann wrote:i had a peach tree pass of rabbit damage and ended up replanting another peach - an Iowa peach/non-rootstock/cold-hardy - in the same spot and it was fine. i think the bigger issue might be finding a peach that can handle Zone 4. i also co-planted with garlic and Russian comfrey because my soil can get a bit soggy and is rather clay-ey. plus, of course, liberal compost.

Hi Christine,
I also planted the peach tree with comfrey and elephant garlic! I top dressed with compost last year too. Thanks for sharing that it was ok to replant in the same spot, that was my experience as well.

I'm new to orchards and fruit trees, but that hasn't stopped me from planting.

As long as the prior tree did not die from disease, I wouldn't be TOO worried about planting in the same spot. Especially if it is a different variety.

I have planted a Reliance this year and I'm hoping for some success! I'm just learning about the benefits of later blooming fruit trees in frost-prone spring areas. I already have one peach tree blooming and have a cold snap coming up.

I’ve also replanted in same spot without any problem. I’d encourage you to check out Contender variety- also cold hardy and later blooming. In my experience, it’s a better tasting peach than Reliance.

Let’s keep in mind there are at least 2 different issues with cold, for peach trees.  

I think Amjad is describing the whole tree being killed by extreme cold.  

I just wonder how big were your trees when they were killed?  I think a very young tree might be more susceptible to freezing than a mature one.  The cambium of a seedling tree is very close to the surface.  And a mature thee has more mass AND much thicker bark, which I imagine provides protection

Amjad, do peaches grow in your region?  How much wind blows in your winter?  Normally and in those peach tree killing winters?

Some folk are saying if there’s no disease present in the soil it’s ok to replant in the same spot, but maybe it’s not a good spot for a peach tree!  It might be one of the coldest locations on your place.

When the tree is young, you might try wrapping it for the winter.

As for flowers blooming, fruit setting and late frost killing the fruit…. late blooming varieties are a good idea.  Another strategy is planting the tree in colder soil, or soil that is later to warm in the spring.  I think the soil warming up is one of the factors that stimulates the tree coming out of dormancy, but a late flowering variety isn’t likely to address the problem of winter kill.

Lots of good advice here.

I think the location only matters in terms of it possibly not being ideal for a peach tree and not an issue that other trees have been there.

Is the tree in a low spot? I believe you generally don’t want fruit trees where cold air may settle.
As such a hillside or slope is more ideal to help move cold air away.  And among hillsides, a south facing hillside would be the most ideal, an east facing hillside the second best, and least desirable would be north or west facing:  this impacts the amount of light and heat the tree receives.

Other ideas are having the tree on the south or east side of a building that could help reflect light and heat into the tree. Look at “Espalier” fruit trees for inspiration for ideas such as this .

Mark Beard wrote:Lots of good advice here.

I think the location only matters in terms of it possibly not being ideal for a peach tree and not an issue that other trees have been there.

Is the tree in a low spot? I believe you generally don’t want fruit trees where cold air may settle.
As such a hillside or slope is more ideal to help move cold air away.  And among hillsides, a south facing hillside would be the most ideal, an east facing hillside the second best, and least desirable would be north or west facing:  this impacts the amount of light and heat the tree receives.

Other ideas are having the tree on the south or east side of a building that could help reflect light and heat into the tree. Look at “Espalier” fruit trees for inspiration for ideas such as this .

Lots of good points here Mark, but a few I think might bear further consideration.  It depends on many variables whether the south or north facing slope is preferable.  North facing slopes don’t have as extreme temperature variations.  The north facing slope ( northern hemisphere) cools more gradually and with less fluctuation than the south facing slope.  If an extreme freeze comes extremely early the trees on the north facing slope have a better chance surviving, because they are further along in their cold adaptation for winter.  And they bloom later in the spring.  Some years a few days difference in blooming may mean the difference between fruit and no fruit.

I can’t quite figure out why east facing may be preferable to west facing 🤷🏻‍♀️, can you elaborate?

Thekla McDaniels wrote:

I can’t quite figure out why east facing may be preferable to west facing 🤷🏻‍♀️, can you elaborate?

The idea here, something I’ve only heard and accepted in passing and never sought to confirm in any studies or trials, is that early sun from eastern slopes helps to dry and warm trees quicker reducing the amount of time they’re covered in morning dew… and in turn reduce mildew or frost exposure time

Thanks, Mark!

From arid conditions, it’s easy to see how that escaped me.

There’s so much more heat in the afternoons, around here we shelter from late afternoon sun, keep the west windows shaded in summer.  My experience says west facing is hotter.  I never think about wanting the morning dew to dry off rapidly.  We seldom even HAVE dew🤣

Indian free and poly white are two that do well here in the arid high altitude zone 6, if that helps anyone.