I need a quick and dirty way for introducing some fruit trees into the soil food web

Hi there!

I can be patient with trees in my orchard, but I've got a client that made me a requirement for mending the soil of his fruit trees. These trees are living in a small creek, and watering is not a problem (except that my client is watering too much and the water is excessively alkaline).
I've just started a zone for composting, but I have not enough material or time, since the client wants it fixed for next week. He doesn't mind paying for ammendments or inputs, it's just for personal use at his backyard. Well, the creek is public space, but only a few neighbours can access.

The 'orchard' has not been fertilized in a long time, it's full of weeds, and some trees show signs of excessive irrigation. The soil is very compacted as a result of the excessive watering.

I would like to know what inputs are the best bet and how to apply it for best results.  Also, for calculating the volume, how tall should the mulch be?

Input options, ordered by price:
 Commercial compost.- I doubt it contains any active microbes, and it potentially contains herbicides.
 Mulch (mantillo).- It's mostly humus with some added fertilizer. May contain perlite.
 Topsoil (tierra vegetal).- It's a mix of dirt and humus.
 Potting substrate (sustrato universal).- It's just humus, may contain perlite.

Applying options:
 Surface tilling, mulching over. Giving some aireation and a protective layer.
 No tilling, mulching over. That's fast and easy.
 Mulching, then tilling. This would add the organic matter deeper, both aireating and feeding.

Since I am going to use a broadfork for tilling, what is the recommended distance from the trunk?

Thanks.

I'm not sure if it matters, but what fruit trees are we talking about?

My current go-to setup for fruit trees when I get them planted and starting to get established is to put a small layer of compost under the mulch ring that I am installing. I believe the ideal mulch ring size is to match the canopy size.

You want to keep the mulch back from the trunk of the tree so it can breath but I go about 6"-8" of whatever wood chip I have on hand as it settles down to around the 2"-4" depth.

My worry is if the tree has been there a while, broad forking is more than likely going to get into some of the roots and cause trouble. I'd go no-till (besides maybe weeding any resilient looking weeds) personally.

Lemon trees, mangoes, avocados...

Most of them are 2m tall, but the fig tree and the loquat are 5-6 meters tall.
Tilling near the roots is risky, but the broadfork is not too deep, less than one feet,.

I would venture to say that the humus would be good to mulch with.

Any chance you could pull up nd replant the smaller trees?
If they are sitting in a creek, extra mulch probably won't stop the effects of over watering.
Planting them in mounds might.

William Bronson wrote: Any chance you could pull up nd replant the smaller trees?
If they are sitting in a creek, extra mulch probably won't stop the effects of over watering.
Planting them in mounds might.

Good idea.
These trees are not in the path of the stream, and our creeks are seasonal.
The overwatering problem must be solved by educating my client to not watering when it is not needed.
Compaction is the immediate issue.

I hope that it will drain properly once it gets some extra organic matter. The trees are showing a nutrition deficit that I'd swear it's caused by the compaction.

If you feel like the overwatering issue can't be solved due to both the natural and human element, maybe the texture of the mulching can play a role. Shaping and mounding the mulch to both shed water away from the tree readily while allowing enough rise for some soil above grade to be home to root tips. A wide volcano (rising sharply from trunk out, then gradually descending after peaking) with a broken edge on the downhill side to allow for drainage? This would disallow ponding around the tree while allowing for some above grade root sanctuary.

For funsies, what is the makeup of the soil look like? A lot of clay?

OK, I totally misunderstood the issue at hand.

I build compost bins/lasagna beds right next to my trees when possible,knowing that tree roots will invade.
It's all on one place,leaving most if the roots free to breathe.
It's a great buffered place to add urine or swamp water or any ammendment,  basically offering free choice nutrition.

Based on my experience, I would definitely broad fork and use the humus.
I think any potential for damage to the roots  by  the broad fork would be mitigated by the good it would do.
I would probably add comfrey and alliums as well.

William Bronson wrote:OK, I totally misunderstood the issue at hand.

I build compost bins/lasagna beds right next to my trees when possible,knowing that tree roots will invade.
It's all on one place,leaving most if the roots free to breathe.
It's a great buffered place to add urine or swamp water or any ammendment,  basically offering free choice nutrition.

Based on my experience, I would definitely broad fork and use the humus.
I think any potential for damage to the roots  by  the broad fork would be mitigated by the good it would do.
I would probably add comfrey and alliums as well.

Excellent idea.
Alliums also can offer some protection against fungal diseases.

I will till radially, from the trunk (but not too close) to the canopy borders to minimise root damage.
First I will apply the mulching about 15cm thick, then I will till, meaning that the broadfork will till only 10 to 15 cm deep.

Thank you.