Using textile weave/braid patterns to wick water

This is an idea I been playing around in my head. I seen folks use yarn or some fabric to wick water up from one point to another.

I don't know anything about weaving or braiding, I'm curious as to if there's a specific type of weave or braid pattern that is helpful in wicking water up from say a tank or pond up to a higher point or any other source. A to B.

I been thinking about trying to make a braid coated with a type of waterproof material like beeswax, or some natural clay that's been sealed.

Maybe have a ceramics artisan coat the braided string in some clay mix and bake in their oven, then seal or waterproof it, run it from one tank to the other.

I wonder if there's a type of braid that aid the water is flowing or wicking up the braided rope.

I have used rope to wick water to plants years ago when we went on vacation.

I have not tried weaving rope.

Rad said, Maybe have a ceramics artisan coat the braided string in some clay mix and bake in their oven, then seal or waterproof it, run it from one tank to the other.

This sounds to me like that would stop the wicking process.  I hope you will try this and let us know if it works.

I agree with Anne - 'sealing' it, by its very nature, will render it hydrophobic, keeping the water from moving through it. The braiding just makes the wick more dense, with the result of lasting longer. I've used cotton fabric, burlap, twine, and other natural fiber ropes and twines. Simple fabric, followed by burlap decomposed the fastest, in my self-watering pots, lasting only about one season. Simple 3-strand braids, loosely braided, were next, lasting 1 - 1.5 seasons. More tightly woven, thicker, & more complex braids, and rope have lasted the longest, sometimes 3 full seasons, depending on other variants, like sun/rain exposure of the plant, & the acidity of the soil.

Please bear in mind that I totally failed my Physics exam . . .
It's in my head that the self-wicking garden beds/pots work because there is a pressure difference caused by the transpiration of the plants that allow the water to be 'sucked' up. ** So that if water is to be transferred upwards, there will need to be a pressure difference at the top - higher - end.  No idea how to achieve this. . . but if someone can come up with a solution, whatever is chosen for the wick might need to be inside a pipe, especially if the climate has hot periods, to prevent evaporation.
I subscribe to cotton, strips of T-shirts, or several strands of heavy cotton weaving thread, never had the need to use cotton rope, although I know that it exists.
edit to add ** hey, that's capillary action . . .

Thanks y'all got some beautiful minds. I was picturing the wick like a wick on a candle where the size has to be just right. And thinking a fabric strung or spun a certain way may help promote the water to wick better.

Yea I have some ideas like this, I'm been trying to figure out a good and practical way to make things, that way anybody could, and it be simple and not break the bank. Living off the land.

I will get something together.

I picture a wick like a wire on a battery, except in slow motion if that makes sense...thanks you all just gave me some inspiration

Anne Miller wrote:I have used rope to wick water to plants years ago when we went on vacation.

I have not tried weaving rope.

Rad said, Maybe have a ceramics artisan coat the braided string in some clay mix and bake in their oven, then seal or waterproof it, run it from one tank to the other.

This sounds to me like that would stop the wicking process.  I hope you will try this and let us know if it works.

Oh ok. Sorry by sealing it I meant, coat the outside of it, like the plastic around a wire...so I could bury it underground and run it like a wire.

I was thinking about using wood soaked in saltwater for electric too. Coated in beeswax

Anne Miller wrote:I have used rope to wick water to plants years ago when we went on vacation.

I have not tried weaving rope.

Rad said, Maybe have a ceramics artisan coat the braided string in some clay mix and bake in their oven, then seal or waterproof it, run it from one tank to the other.

This sounds to me like that would stop the wicking process.  I hope you will try this and let us know if it works.

Thanks for your wisdom I sure will.

Jill Dyer wrote:Please bear in mind that I totally failed my Physics exam . . .
It's in my head that the self-wicking garden beds/pots work because there is a pressure difference caused by the transpiration of the plants that allow the water to be 'sucked' up. ** So that if water is to be transferred upwards, there will need to be a pressure difference at the top - higher - end.  No idea how to achieve this. . . but if someone can come up with a solution, whatever is chosen for the wick might need to be inside a pipe, especially if the climate has hot periods, to prevent evaporation.
I subscribe to cotton, strips of T-shirts, or several strands of heavy cotton weaving thread, never had the need to use cotton rope, although I know that it exists.
edit to add ** hey, that's capillary action . . .

That's interesting. I dont care what they say, sounds like you know physics quite well. Oh so it can only go high to low, not low to high? Kinda like siphoning water. Hmm. Thanks so much.

Carla Burke wrote:I agree with Anne - 'sealing' it, by its very nature, will render it hydrophobic, keeping the water from moving through it. The braiding just makes the wick more dense, with the result of lasting longer. I've used cotton fabric, burlap, twine, and other natural fiber ropes and twines. Simple fabric, followed by burlap decomposed the fastest, in my self-watering pots, lasting only about one season. Simple 3-strand braids, loosely braided, were next, lasting 1 - 1.5 seasons. More tightly woven, thicker, & more complex braids, and rope have lasted the longest, sometimes 3 full seasons, depending on other variants, like sun/rain exposure of the plant, & the acidity of the soil.

When you say complex braids. Are there specific names of these braids styles. Sorry I don't know squat about anything with the loom. Wow 3 seasons is right on. I'd like to bury this underground...did you happen to use any sheep's wool? I been drawn to sheep's wool since something about the static charge I feel it helps with the water. But I hear sheep's wool has lanolin that makes it basically waterproof. I guess I could blended wick.

Like you know when you were young you run the balloon on your head and all your hair stands up? Haha. And if you place the balloon next to a flowing spigot the stream slightly bends.

I think sheep's wool does that with water. You could utilize that whole scene on a river Bank to help with floods. I appreciate your wisdom thank ya.

By "complex" braided, I merely meant more than 3 strands. That might include simple macrame, or even just braiding in multiples of 3. I've not used sheep's wool, as yet, because being a fiber artist(I use the term very loosely), my primary uses for the stuff has been in a very different direction, though I've had a couple fleeces go beyond repair, when I was injured, in between phases of cleaning them, and was unable to finish, leaving them to degrade to nothing more than compost.

I do NOT want to discourage you from experimenting. I could be entirely mistaken - or it might be dependent on how much lanolin (or other sealant) is actually present in the fibers. You may find a balance that works well, for you. And, as Jill mentioned, there could be a suction/vaccuum effect, too. I do know that my 'self-watering' pots work best when there is a good seal, between layers.

Together we will come up with a plan!   Braids - simplest is a 3-strand - think of plaited hair styles.   Then it just goes up from there.  The result is a flat strip.  With a bit of manual dexterity 4-strand and up can be made into a round section braid, although more than 4 or 5 strands, used with soft materials it will likely become a flat section with two layers.   I learned braiding (aka plaiting) with leather so that is worth a follow up for diagrams of how-to.

Just read Carla's post - sheep's wool will hold 20% of its weight  in water and still not feel damp - also it's an exothermic reaction - gives out heat. There's no reason why the wool shouldn't be washed to remove the lanolin, but it adds more work and there's the risk of felting. I've buried wool in the root zones of tomatoes to help with water retention when things are very dry - still not really convinced it was beneficial.
SO, I guess we keep thinking on this topic.