• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies living kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education experiences global resources the cider press projects digital market permies.com all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Nicole Alderman
  • raven ranson
  • paul wheaton
  • Jocelyn Campbell
  • Julia Winter
stewards:
  • Burra Maluca
  • Devaka Cooray
  • Bill Erickson
garden masters:
  • Joylynn Hardesty
  • Bryant RedHawk
  • Mike Jay
gardeners:
  • Joseph Lofthouse
  • Dan Boone
  • Daron Williams

I'm new to RMH's, just a couple of confusion points. . .  RSS feed

 
Posts: 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
SO, i have been reading up on these things all day and it sounds like a very interesting idea and may suit my needs perfectly. I am looking at living in a Yurt in Nevada in the coming years. I have a job that will move me down there and I am tired of renting and want to buy/own a place of my own on a limited budget. Now on to my RMH questions. . .

What should the distance between the feed chute/burn chamber and the rocket pipe/reburn be. So how long should the bottom part of the "L" be? Does it matter? My second question is, where does the ash go? and how is it removed? I'm guessing that it end up just after the barrel, maybe down in the junction to the mass heater portion

Since the gasses are cooling and descend from the barrel, shouldn't the duct work through the mass heater portion be in a top down manner. THis is so the cooling gasses can continue to descend, rather than trying to ascend up the ducts to go outside. If this is the case could you plumb the exaust pipe out through the bottom of the house (floor of the yurt)?

I am looking into the feasability of a yurt because my career will have me moving around every 3-4 years in my life and I want a "house" that can be moved with relative ease. I was thinking of using sand and making some modifications to the RMH so that it could also be moved. . . ANy ideas on this front? Maybe use sand or similar material for the mass as it could be excavated and dumped during disassembly and easily aquired in the new location? Does sand work well for mass? What is an ideal (optimally efficient) mass? I'm not sure what kind of finish work/cob would be the easiest to disassemble when moving.

Wow, that is a lot of questions lumped into one post. Thanks for any insight that you can provide!
 
pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
59
books fungi hugelkultur solar wofati woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Ken Scheffler : Welcome to Permies, and a big welcome to the rocket and the Wood heaters Forums / Threads ! With over 19,000 fellow members scattered around the globe
you can always expect to find someone here nearly 24/7 who wants to talk about what you want to talk about ! The only rule we pay attention to around here is the one you
learned in K'garten play nice !

My wife and I use a 12' yurt as a travel yurt leaving upstate N.Y. in the late fall early winter and traveling where the weather suits our clothes, I have successfully saved my
barrel and the stovepipe that makes up my internal horizontal run through my Thermal Bench Mass, and stored it, I expect to do the same this fall though I am nearly ready to
see how much deterioration will occur over a single winter if I cover my yurt platform inmultiple layers of plastic /tarp and just use the Barrel as the single high point and
leave behind a snow shedding cone !

I flipped a coin and so first you get the lecture on being very careful what you watch on U-Tube , there is a lot of crap out there ! A word to the wise !

I can not stress highly enough that you should go to 'rocket stoves.com' to get your PDF Copy $15.oo of Ianto Evans great Book 'rocket mass heaters ', there is STILL No
other book in any language with more Rocket Family information ! (and I don't make a Dime ! )

Here you will learn a common language and the Importance of keeping an internal '' Constant Cross Sectional Area " and the need to keep it Wholey

Much of the mineral fly ash that is left after weeks of burning your rocket mass heater R.M.H., is located within the barrel, you should be looking for a barrel with one open end
with it's top held in place with a clamping band and replaceable gasket ! Barrels are lasting 20 + years ! Just after the barrel in what is called the transitional area ( Where the-
gases change from falling vertically to horizontal, we place our 1st mandatory clean out ! Much of that fine ash is found there !

The Cooling and falling gases create a Differential (heat energy) engine that drives the gasses through the horizontal plane, basically the energy has been paid, and the work is
given up exactly as though the heat engine was powered by the work done as heat energy is discarded at the barrel !

When the planes indians were exposed to canned foods, one of the very first things they did (after emptying the can) was to fit can end to can end sizing up and down as needed
and using the hollow pipe that resulted, (buried in the ground, from outside the Tepee to under the hearthstones)to feed fresh air to the fire !

I want you to go to our sister site, richsoil.com and click on rocket stoves, and then scroll almost all the way to the bottom where you will see a picture of a young lady in a
bathtub in a YURT ! Click on this fine example of Amish Porn, where you will be directed back here to a discussion of in ground heat and be able to see a practical build !


The feed tube should be 1/3rd the total height of the Heat Riser, and the Burn tunnel should be 1/2 the height of the Heat riser (It's o.k., when you get the book it'll make sense)

Being a 30 yr fire fighter it is easy for me to borrow a fire truck to hose the cob off of my pipe if I need to make repairs or refit, I have some doubts that my old, many times
recycled stove pipe would reseal with out painting it with multiple layers of Clay Slip, but my system seems to work fine when so treated and buried in Cob.

Carbon Monoxide will probably show up as a gas that can filter its way through just sand, however, It (carbon monoxide) will only show up in the running of a poorly vented system
and you should have a CO and smoke detector ! I hope this helps and is timely ! For the good of the Craft !

Think like fire, flow like a gas, Don't be the Marsh mallow ! As always, your comments and questions are solicited and are welcome ! PYRO - Logically Big AL
 
Ken Scheffler
Posts: 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Excellent reply! That answers most of my questions. So the burn chamber is 1/2 the height of the heat riser, that makes sense.

How is the draft established in the first place? You build the fire in the feed tube but it would seem that the fire would naturally want to work up the wood and cause the feed air to come from the outside instead of the other way around?

Is there a reason that the heat riser should end 1 1/2" from the barrel lid? Is this to cause the hot gasses and cooling gas to not intermix (so as to keep the air flow in one direction)?

Does the distance from transition zone to the vent make a difference in functionality. I understand that the longer the vent system, throught the mass, the more heat exchange to the interior of the house that will occur but is there a point at which the gas will no longer move and cause a problem with the venting/air flow?

Very interesting stuff, I'm excited to build one of these! Though it may be a while. . .
 
allen lumley
pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
59
books fungi hugelkultur solar wofati woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Ken Scheffler : I will gladly explain the stack effect, and its place in the burner, and in the house. and explain Toroids and total length of 6'' and 8'' after you get a copy of ''The Book"

For the Good of the Craft ! Big AL
 
Posts: 29
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bsUd5zLcLw Hear is a portable one.
 
allen lumley
pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
59
books fungi hugelkultur solar wofati woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Ken Scheffler : Mea culpa ! I am very sorry, The rule for my condition is never get too tired , hungry, Thirsty, or lonely, I was all of that, and in pain and generally nasty/grumpy !

And to Top it off I got an atta boy, red apple for the comment ! made just before I sent you a load of grief, and an apple for a comment soon after ! I am an old man on disability
and I had just worn myself out answering several threads with the same biased Comments and Questions.

In the few remaining moments before I forced myself to go lie down, I sent out a comment meant to provoke you into Getting 'The Book' , I am publicly apologizing for comments
I made in a public forum that were directed at you, I try to be abetter man ! For the good of the Craft ! Big Al
 
A day job? In an office? My worst nightmare! Comfort me tiny ad!
Binge on 17 Seasons of Permaculture Design Monkeys!
http://permaculture-design-course.com
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
Boost this thread!