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rocket bell heater build  RSS feed

 
Posts: 106
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
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I have started building a rocket bell heater similar to the rocket flue heater using water tanks instead of the very expensive flue liners that crack in use. This afternoon a neighbor gave me the 18 blocks I needed to raise the tile pad my wood stove was on. I have one free tank from the dump and a friend has another. I have to find 3 more tanks. The tank in the picture is the riser tank in proper position. The other 2 will be behind it with the 6ft bell closest to the wall. The bricks next to the tank represent the burn tunnel. The tanks and base will all be covered with rock. Alan
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heater.jpg
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pollinator
Posts: 1947
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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Nice concept! I am looking forward to
more about your project.
 
Alan Mikoleit
Posts: 106
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
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I have completely re-thought this bell style heater as I have no idea how the heat moves from the 1st bell to the 2nd bell in a vertical system. It makes no sense to me at all. But I have heard many stories of how awesome double barrel wood stoves work except for the metal burning through after time. This design is now so hybrid I don't know what to call it. Features 1. horizontal burn box 12" x 24", 2. a glass door on the end of the burn box 3. air will come in from the end through 3 to 5 pipes with many holes in them, in the top of burn box like the wild elm stoves referenced in another thread of mine. 4. the burn box will have an arched top so it can be wider higher and stronger 5. The riser and burn box will be made of fire brick. 6.The riser will have insulation and cob around it but no metal tank, pipe or, barrel. 7. This concept is shown with 2 - 16 inch dia. x 48 inch long water tanks 8. There will be an oven above the burn box. 9. 2 large clean outs will be above the oven. 10.The overall size is 24" x 48" x 77" high. 11. a bench could be on 1 to 3 sides. 12. this is a 6inch system pertaining to the riser area and pipes connecting the tanks. 13. fire bricks will line the first half of the first tank. If no one can say why this won't work then this will be what I build. This design is flexible for the size, length, and number of tanks. The first picture shows the insides and the second the finished outside.
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heater1.jpg
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gardener
Posts: 2713
Location: Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Alan, your overcomplicating yourself.

Take example on Johan's and Peter's stove

http://www.permies.com/t/29052/rocket-stoves/builds-experimental

Two towers. One with the batch rocket in it, and acting as a first bell. Second tower as a second bell. Atach the two the closest you can. And cover with whatever you want. I would pour concrete myself around all this. Don't forget to make two cleaning doors at the back or side. You can nearly make your second shape with this. Enough mass and enough bell imho.

 
Satamax Antone
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Posts: 2713
Location: Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Posts: 3366
Location: Kansas Zone 6a
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One little detail change makes barrel stoves behave more efficiently like a bell, see the attached file (hopefully)
barrel-bell.png
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pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
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Alan Mikoliet : I Agree with R. Scott, one picture is worth a thousand words. Think of it this way there is always going to be a continuous flow of hot Exhaust gases The hottest
gasses will always work to dis place cooler gases, w there will be some mixing and turbulence, turbulence causes friction which produces heat, as long as we have a continuous
re-supply of Hot Exhaust Gas, and our pipes are sized and placed right we will have some stratification of gas w/in the barrel, with cooler ases being displaced by warmer and
lighter gases and falling, it is the push of fresh hot exhaust gas that forces your cooler gas at the outlet to leave your bell !

Mike Kelly's sketches for the Pocket Rocket thread around October 3rd - 8th show an insulated tube going to the bottom of the barrel. which as you want only your coolest gases
to flow to the next barrel should be carefully planned for !

I also think that you have gotten too far away from the creation of the Heat Engine Effect of hot gasses cooling as they flow down the sides of the barrel, This is what promotes
the Heat Riser to such an efficient Chimney giving us the air flow needed to create such efficiently burning hot fires, with even todays half bricks, to line our RMHs Burn
Tunnel/Combustion Chamber, we do not need the super refractory insulations for excellent working temperature at our flame front. The super insulation is there to more rapidly
re-radiate the heat and cause our RMH to reach these Temps 3 Xs faster !

First we want a fast hot burn-Fast ! Then we want a way to dissipate the heat , at best you will be recreating a Russian Masonry Stove that usually costs 10,000s abet cheaper ,
and will pay for that, if you are not careful with a reduction in your clean burn ! For the craft ! Big Al !
 
Alan Mikoleit
Posts: 106
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
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Satamax, I am greatly simplifying, this will be much easier for me to build than a vertical system and take up less floor space.
Scott, thanks much for your idea and sketch I will add that to my build. Alan
 
Alan Mikoleit
Posts: 106
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
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I laid up the arch for the burn box. I will move it outside this week with riser for the first test.
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horizontal burn box with arched top
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side view of burn box
 
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