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Picking a grafting/budding knife  RSS feed

 
brandon gross
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I want to start out by saying im sorry if this is a repeated topic, but I have yet to find on permies or just googleing on picking the right knife for grafting and budding. I know a little about picking the right knife from my instructor at school but are specific thing i need to look for when picking my knife? Certian steel? Shape of handle or blade? THat little swoop for bark splitting? I want to use the knife for budding some pawpaws im hopeing to recieve soon and play with cocktail trees and the like. Any suggestiong or links about picking the right knife would be greatly appreciated. Oh and this browser does not have spell check so no picking on me.
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
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Location: zone 7
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this is what i use and learned on. its not the traditional American/European style. unlike those knifes where you pull towards your body(as paul says you will bleed), this cuts away(and less likely to cut you if at all). reducing injury from a VERY sharp knife. i have had 90%+ take on all of my grafts even the first time I grafted. i do all the common grafts with this and a small double edged pocket knife to split or cut the rootstock. the grafting knife does the scion wood. good luck, grafting is a very useful skill.

http://www.stonelantern.com/Masters_Grade_Grafting_Knife_with_Wood_Sheath_p/tbk35705.htm

 
brandon gross
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Thanks for the quick responce. Would this knife be good for budding? Does the knife design have a name, like could I find a similer knife on a lower budget?
 
Zach Muller
gardener
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Location: NE Oklahoma zone 7a
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Hey Brandon here's one thats pretty cheap

And another on e made by victrionix.
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
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yes this knife is good for budding and all kinds of grafting. imo cheap and grafting knifes are not good combinations. i have used the cheap american style grafting knifes and highly reccomend against them. specially for quality.

second, for the price of that grafting knife. you now have the power to create thousands of trees for very very cheap. some of which trees
can be sold for a good price and a high profit on your terms, making up for the knife easily in one season. and then you have the knife to graft for hundreds of years given good care of the knife.

there are models that are similar and cheaper but the quality is not there, you NEED a VERY SHARP knife to do this properly with a good success rate. imo its a matter of 10-50% take and 95-100% take in your trees.

my opinion anyways
 
brandon gross
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THanks Jordan and zach So im torn between two knives. I feel bad cause I like the knife you suggested Jordan but I think im going to go with a more traditional knife for my first one. Im torn between this one http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Grafter-Garden/dp/B000687AUY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1391958005&sr=8-4&keywords=grafting+knife because of the extra blade i could use for a regular pocket knife, but the bark lifter blade is weird compared to what im use to seeing, and its rounded in stead of flat, and it looks short.
or http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Budding-Grafting-Knife-Barklifter/dp/B000AYIYKO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1391958302&sr=8-3&keywords=grafting+knife this is the same knife my hort instructor has but like 20 30 bucks cheaper than what he paid for his from a garden supply.
 
brandon gross
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I went with the double bladed on but i dont think this will be the last one i buy thanks for all the suggestions
 
Jordan Lowery
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good luck, careful cutting towards yourself.
 
I agree. Here's the link: http://richsoil.com/email
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