Not quite stonework, Bond Beams, Cinder Blocks and Slip Form Masonry

But not unrelated!
I am trying a dry pour bond beam on top of a cinder block wall.
The wall cavities are filled with random bits of rebar, urbanite,tile,rocks,pipe and conduit.
The bond beam is there to make smooth level surface for sitting on.

If it works out, I see it as a way to make up for my poor masonry skills, but also a path towards slip form masonry.

With a cinder block  at either end of the slip form we have something simple to clamp the boards to.
I am using two old side rails from a bedframe for this job, but a pair of 2x8s should match the height of a cinder block pretty well.

I have pile of 8" tile that I was planning to adhere directly to the  top of the cinder blocks, but the top of the wall is not level enough for that to work.
I think the tiles could be used as the face of a Slip Form Wall, cast in place or added after.
For soilcrete walls they could off extra protection against  rain.

I have used 2x4s drilled every couple of feet with threaded rod to hold them in place and clamp them to the top of dry-laid block walls. They make a fine bond beam when the cores are also filled with concrete. I wrapped the threaded rods with duct tape inside the forms so I could tap them out when done and reuse them for another wall top. If you want to match the height of a block course, 2x10s would allow clamping to the course below to maintain flat surfaces as you go up.

If you want tile facing, I would fix them into the forms so they are cast monolithically with the concrete.

I use all-thread galvanized 3/8" rods with large fender washers and nuts (regular, not locking) on both sides. They rest on the wall holding entire form. I place them usually every 32". Over the window openings I place 3 rods - two on each side and one in the middle.
On top of the form I add 2" wide plywood ribs screwed to the top of the form, so they keep the rectangular cross section and prevent bulging. I space them every 16".
After the concrete is poured and sets, so after a few days, I remove the nuts and washers, unscrew the ribs, remove the sides and then cut the all-thread rods flush with the wall, which will be plastered.

The image shows the formwork for 10" thick bond beam - the section around the chimney ducts and above the kitchen window.
I have used this system on two buildings. It's rigid enough as long as the rods are spaced 32" max. The part of formwork in the top right corner of the image has bulged out during the pour, because I had to place the rods 56" apart due to brick impost and 24" thick chimney.

 soilcrete walls

William what are these please?