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Copper pipe soldering questions

 
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So I never soldered copper pipe before so I preemptively soldered a few pieces before installing them. I cleaned them with the wire tool inside and outsides, brushed on flux on both pieces, heated the pipe with a propane torch and soldered them together. The mistake I made was I heated the pipe for quite longer than a few seconds and took the torch away from the pipe then added the solder which did suck in until the pipe cooled. Did I mess up these connections? I’m afraid I over heated the pipe and flux. If I did over heat the pipe can I fix it or do I have to buy new pieces?
 
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The way I read your post, you did OK assuming the solder was sucked in all round the fitting.


Added: If you did mess up, there is no need to buy new. As Thomas points out, just heat to loosen the solder, sand, flux, and have a second go at it.   Oh yes, our assumption is you are using lead free solder.
 
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I second what John said!
The trick to successful copper soldering is that every piece must be clean; there really is no overheating unless you are working near other already-connected pieces.
When all is clean and you heat the copper, touching the flux and then the solder, it should immediately suck it into the joint, leaving a smooth line of solder with NO black spots.
A black spot will almost always indicate a leak; if it does, you must start over and sand every piece again.
Crustless bread can be used inside pipes to hold back water while soldering, and that bread will dissolve once under normal water pressure.

If you get completely frustrated with the process, they now sell high-pressure, solderless copper fittings, known as "Shark Bite".
 
John F Dean
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The Shark Bite fittings can really be a life saver if you find yourself soldering in a really tight place.
 
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I know this was not your question, but make sure your flux is reasonably fresh. My uncle and I wasted several hours trying to get some pipes to solder using 15 year old flux. Once we got some new, it soldered perfectly in seconds.
 
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