james beam wrote:From Stone County, AR there really is no 'building code'...when your outside of city limits, if your inside city limits then there is building code enforcement thru the city planning & zoning office, I think it would be easier for you to just call them at 870-269-3686. Electrical installation even outside the city limit, minimally requires an licensed electrician to 'sign off' on your electric installation, before the Entergy 800-368-3749 will hook on to the house. Don't get 'city water' or rural water if you can help it, heavy chlorinated, and can become expensive if you get rural water service 'tap' out to your place, ya have to continue to pay for that tap even if you have the water meter pulled out, I think a 'perk test/septic tank' outside of the city limit, is required before they will hook up water service, if your in town, you have to pay to hook on to the sewer & continuous sewer cost thereafter. A water well can be drilled by a permit/ licensed driller, ya better figure 200 feet deep?..depends...and ask the driller how much he gets, last time I checked it was around $8/foot but you should find out first hand from the driller. So various 'improvements' to a property should be considered before you buy, as all these add up quick... electric, water, natural gas, roadways, telephone...you might want to find a place that at least has what utilities you need already 'available' nearby. Building a RMH in town, ask planning & zoning, out of town should be easy enough, don't know if insurance would...........
james beam
Gary Hughes wrote:I live in OK and since I live outside a small rural town there is no inspections and the only thing I needed was a $30 permit. I'm doing a straw bale house with an earthen floor. I've got my roof up with minimum 30" of overhang all the way around. I'm just now plastering the straw with clay dug from my trenches and I'm using "clean screenings" from the local rock quarry as the sand. So far not a single crack and I attribute that to the powdery stuff in the screenings. If screenings get wet and then dry they are hard so they must have some sort of bonding in them but they break apart, but with clay and straw added it becomes as hard as rock or stucco. I plan on sifting out the bigger particles for the last coat though since they are slightly bigger than normal sand. My straw bales are only insulation, and provide no structural support. I would highly recommend you orient to the south and use as much passive solar design as you can. Just realize it will take longer than you think, at least it is for me. It's a one man show here.
Biggest costs for far, trusses $3500 standing seam metal roof $5000, lumber...don't know for sure but maybe $1500-2000? straw $1000 labor of love, priceless.
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