What to do with a big surplus of arborist-sourced hardwood logs?

Here in Nashville Tennessee we are incredibly blessed with a tremendous amount of hardwood.  I have several tree companies bringing me logs out of people’s yards.  These are usually taken down because they are a hazard or are dead (but great lumber).   I would like to build a house or barns with the wood but there are drawbacks.

Termites like Oak and such woods.  How could I treat interior wood.  Is there some Borax type of product that I could coat interior beam with that would make them more bug and fire resistant?

These woods are incredibly hard to nail through.  This is especially true after drying.

I saw these logs with a bandsaw mill at an astoundingly quick rate.  My yard is full of stacked boards and beams that are drying out.  I have been doing this for over 4 years now. 

What should I do with all of this wonderful wood?   I don’t sell very much of it and it is too heavy to ship out of town.
Today another Arborist called me and he has 50 big logs for me.  But, I hesitate to take delivery because I cannot find a use for the wood but I hate to let it go to waste.
Home engineering is not geared towards hard wood but rather softer pine.

A fresh perspective or any ideas would be appreciated.

Those are beautiful logs all right. Have you ever considered learning the timber framing trade? I've seen timber frames of different hardwoods and they are beautiful. The logs would need to be sawn into posts and beams to match the design of the frame. The joinery is mostly mortise and tenon but the are other joinery techniques that can be used as well. I'd love to learn the craft of making them myself... Here's a link to a school nearby to me to give you an idea:
http://www.northhouse.org/courses/themes/timberframing/index.htm

Give it all to me 

there is also Mikes underground house building method which uses lumber

i also am intrested in lumber treated with Borax if anyone knows

Oak and such need to be drilled before being nailed (and I agree that timber-framing would be a great way to use that wood!).

Interior wood, as long as it's kept dry, doesn't need to be treated against termites.  You just have to keep them out of your house, which, I suppose, means treating the soil around the house.  (Don't know much about termite treatments.)

You have a beautiful resource there -- I hope you are able to find a good use for it!

Kathleen

Thanks for all of the ideas.

Keep them coming.

I have done some post and beam structure.  That is like timber framing.

I cut out this pattern, folded each line inwards and made quite a spectacular paper replica.
http://www.starship-enterprises.net/IcosaDodeca/Icosa%20Dodeca%20Hemisphere%20Peel%20Model%20%281%29.pdf ;

Lately I have been looking at the dodeca-dome. 
There are twelve triagles along the bottom hence the name: dodeca, Greek for 12.
It is a dome that uses all the same size right triangles. 
This looks easier to build than geodesic domes because there is so little math involved. 
There are lines that cross at the peak that would seem to make it easier to stick build.
http://www.gardendome.com/dodeca_dome.html
http://www.gardendome.com/dodeca_dome/p2/dodeca_dome_part2.html
http://www.starship-enterprises.net/IcosaDodeca/Index.html
I liked this video for the Wooden connectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnyoCC8jtTA ;

Ferro Cementing for roof seems like a good idea for the roof.
http://forum.freestateproject.org/index.php?topic=10926.msg146980 ;
Leaking seems like it could be a problem.

Esthetically, I may like this more traditional dome:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=cfab031e00a12dd3e3f7a74e12a274ef&prevstart=0
Google Sketchup is a great tool for this sort of thing.  It took a few of the training videos to get me started.

Termite damage in middle Tennessee is usually avoided by having a foundation of concrete or block 18 inches minimum height with termite flashing on top of that. They will find a crack if there is one tho, nasty little buggers.
Here is a tip that might help someone that's building with fresh-cut hardwood lumber. (usually it's only for barn siding with "board and batten" or "board on board" styles). Before driving the nails, blunt the tip by placing the nail on something solid and tapping 2-3 times on the point with your hammer. Not hard enough to bend the nail, just to flatten the tip. Then when you drive in the nail, it punches it's way thru the wood instead of splitting it's way. Try on a scrap first to get the hang....

My property is mostly old maples which are not suitable for exterior applications.Never the less,I had several thousand board ft.milled up after my first clearing.Maple warps real bad and I dont have electricity so I planed it next door but didnt groove or lap any.I built my structures(the stick frame ones)with conventional fir but instead of drywall covered the insides with maple.I cut the pieces short because of warps and drilled a pilot hole for every screw.I also did alot of custom interior work like shelves and bed frames.The first batch was 1.25"thick which proved to be overkill so this year I had it milled just1" for interior siding application.

Hi my husband mentioned hiring a portable saw mill and dry it, then you could sell it!

Pre-fab tiny house kits for sale, justify the shipping costs that way

Urban Forestry is a new thing around here. Where logs harvested in town are used in furniture building and rather than go to waste are sold at
a premium.

Real furniture makers would love this wood!