steve bossie wrote:it could be too much water. what kind of soil do you have? did you check ph before planting them? how deep did you plant the roots? raspberries should have their roots no more than 2in. down . did you fertilize near the roots? shouldn't fertilize a new plant till it shows signs of new growth. i bet if its clay soil you have it could be poor drainage. don't add sulfur for sure as it will kill your already weakend plant. its still got plenty of leaves so i don't think the deer hurt it any. maybe someone else with more experience diagnosing raspberry problems will chime in? try lightly raking the top inch of soil to fluff it up some. might help to dry the soil some don't go to deep as the roots are shallow on raspberries. does water pool on rainy days around your plants? if so you may need to dig them up and put them in a mound with some coarse sand added to your soil for drainage.
steve bossie wrote:places I've bought my raspberries at say to lay the roots horizontal to the surface about 2in down so the suckers can reach the surface easily. i agree digging them isn't a good idea now but you may lose them to root rot. your soil seems good. try raking the surface to fluff up the soil around the roots like i mentioned earlier. that will allow for moisture built up in the soil to evaporate and may save them. i think that the roots being planted so deep, initially you won't get many suckers but they will eventually grow closer to the surface over time giving you lots of babies to transplant! good luck!
Ruby Gray wrote:This site has some words of wisdom which seem to confirm the rootrot diagnosis.
Digging up one affected plant to check the appearance of the roots would be beneficial.
"Heritage" is said to be moderately or highly susceptible to phytophthora root rot.
Many plants get yellow leaves when there is an excess of rain, due to nitrogen being leached out of the soil, especially in cool spring weather. Adding nitrogen and magnesium can help in this case.
It's hard to tell from the photo whether the affected leaves are on primocanes (this year's) or floricanes (last year's). The younger shorter leaves look OK. So perhaps cutting off all last year's canes would solve the problem, if it's not root rot.
Otherwise, they would need to be dug out, destroyed, and new virus-free canes planted in a different spot.
steve bossie wrote:i have very rocky clay soil. i find peat w/ vermiculite is the best amendment for berry plants. i use the promix from lowes. fluffs up the soil and add some acidity, which most berries like. compost and gypsum helps too.