Bryant RedHawk wrote:Bio char isn't going to help your compost, it is designed to be a layer in a field and it is more for bacteria and fungi than moisture.
If you are using food scraps you need to be able to turn your barrels so the compost can mix as you roll the barrel, usually this mean you have to have some type of scraper inside the barrel.
My tumbler has four 2x4 pieces lag screwed to the inside of my homemade drum, these effectively churn up the contents when I give it a spin (once or twice a day).
Bryant RedHawk wrote:hau John, yes biochar needs to be charged with bacteria prior to use. In the fields where biochar has been discovered it is a layer about 2' thick and found about a foot down, this is most likely from the actions of spreading then tilling it in.
I don't think anyone really knows how the layer get to be a foot under the top soil in those cases of discovery.
I have a garden space that has been biochar treated, it has not performed any better or worse than the other garden spaces we have.
I have gotten better improvement by broadcasting Sea-90 than I have with biochar.
But my area is not really anything like the areas where they discovered biochar in the soil, and that may be part of the way it acts on my land.
I believe biochar works but my observations are leaning toward it being better for certain soil types than others.
My land is 1.5 feet of good forest top soil with a 2 foot layer of red clay then you hit bed rock.
The areas I treated with biochar have not shown any difference in productivity, water holding, bio activity than the other, non-treated spaces.
I'm only two years in on the experiment so things may change over time, the discovery of biochar indicated it had been in place for a long time so it may be that it needs to be in situ for quite a while before you really get full benefits from it.