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Peter Van Den Bergs Fat Rabbit I want to build one for in my house in New Zealand.  RSS feed

 
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Hi Guys and girls
I want to build a Fat Rabbit and install one in my home.

After any and all advice from anyone that has got local government approval to install A RMH or similar heating device in their home.

The Fat rabbit looks to me to be the safest bet for where we live in New Zealand. I do know there is no emissionns standards for installing a Cooking appliance maybe that is my best option 

Now is the Fat rabbit A 4 inch batch box and is it possible to scale this up to possibly 5 or 6 inch and keep it in the same size receptacle.
Also I have a late 1890s cast iron Coal range (Shacklock Orion). the space I could build a batch box in is 300 wide 900 Deep and 650 High. I am going to mount it about 300mm off the floor so this could give me more height for riser.
What I was toying with doing was casting a batch box and riser to fit in the firebox side using the original flow path for the flue gasses but exiting out the bottom into  bench or similar thermal mass then out the wall into a flue to above roof height. This would mean it would have to be a 4 inch batch box. I have read somewhere here that you can decrease the riser height somewhat in the batch box but cannot remember how much by and what is required to do this.

Shite Novel again
Fat-Rabbit.jpg
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Orion-Coal-range.PNG
[Thumbnail for Orion-Coal-range.PNG]
Shacklock Orion Coal range similar to mine LH side is the firebox Right hand side is oven Flue gasses are directed from the top of firebox around the top and both sides of the oven and out the floor to the flue you can just see in the top of the photo
 
gardener
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Location: Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Russel, that's a cool looking range.

You're aware of my range retrofit?

https://permies.com/t/35569/rocket-stoves/Range-retrofit#278309

That's a batch box too, but not exactly respecting the dimensions. Heat riser is 56cm tall for a 4 incher.

There's plenty of details that i would do differently.

If you want i can help with yours.

If the firebox is closed, the clearances respected, and you call it a masonry heater. I can't see any problem with liabilities.

 
Russell Dinning
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Masonry heaters are not known here in nz only one I can find installed recently in central otago and sounds like it was a major nightmare to get compliance but I'll give anything a crack and yeah any help appreciated on the range retrofit. The core of yours what is it made of. I'm a welder by trade so modifying metalwork is not an issue.
 
Satamax Antone
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Hi Russel, the core is made of landini tubes. They are some kind of clay with chamotte (grog) in there. Easy to prototype with it. But i discover that it is not as long lasting as i wish.

https://permies.com/forums/posts/list/35569#344811 Here are some photos of the tubes.

What i would do differently now.

Raise the range on a brick base, a bit, to have a full height heat riser.

Lower the bottom of the firebox as much as i can. Do a firebox which opens on top, for ease of feeding. May be change the orientation of the firebox.

That's the latest i'm working on.

http://donkey32.proboards.com/post/21822/thread

Well, not tested so Far, except by Andrea, but he hasn't been around for a long while.

I really think that's what i need for a cooking stove. Down low firebox, made vertical and feed-able from the top. Still has bottom air.

Hth.

Max.



 
Russell Dinning
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Another thing I'd suggest for the oven section would be thin steel plate box between. 8 and 1mm thick with some flat bar welded to the sides to help rigidity. Then make your riser gases flow over the top and down the far side and down the firebox side and under the floor of said box. The flat bar will help the gases flow where you want them too and also help transfer more heat ( basically a heat sink) 
 
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