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Coating / cooking surface/ extra mass for top of barrel

 
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My Stove has a belly shaped stainless steel  55 gallon drum. The bottom is bent and dented. I put plaster of paris on top of it about 3/4" thick for a smooth cooking surface but it insulates so darn well I cannot get water to boil even when pushing the stove hard! Anyone know of a pourable suitable mix or whatever I could use?? Also I am getting a good ring of heat about 1.5 inches in from the ring on the barrel top. Does this mean I should adjust my gap? I get about 300F there and about 200F max in the center. The plaster of paris has some amazing insulating properties and it will hold up to really high temps! Anyhow just trying to get a smooth cooking surface that conduct enough heat. The plaster was a fail and im not looking forward to chipping it out!
 
master pollinator
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Location: Ashhurst New Zealand
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Fireclay or a non-insulating refractory would be my choices. Did you take any temperature readings before you put on the plaster?
 
Jay Hughart
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Yes I was getting 600f in the center and that was before I got my vent pipe extended to up above the roof. I had about 10Ft of ex pipe rise now I have about 16ft. So I should be even hotter now as the draw has improved somewhat. Oh and I was not pushing it hard. I would expect 600f would be easily achieved now.
 
gardener
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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I would try this:
Rapid Set  55 lb. Cement All Multi-Purpose Construction Material

www.homedepot.com/p/Rapid-Set-55-lb-Cement-All-Multi-Purpose-Construction-Material-02010055/202188447


Cheap,non insulative, high temperature refractory.
I used it on the lid of my firepit,worked well.
I believe its rated for about 2300°F.

On the other hand, maybe a grill over the naked steel would be good.
 
gardener
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Location: Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft elevation
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Best solution.

Find a metalworking factory.

Ask them to cut a cookie of thick steel. Or cast iron, if you can find it. The size of the barrel top inside the lip. 1/2 thick or more in thickness.

Cut the barrel top one inch in.

Drill several holes in the edge of the metal plate. Put a gasket on the lip, metal plate on top. Then screw with self taping screws.

Or find a barrel top, with its clamp. Same system. Again. Gasket and clamp.
 
Jay Hughart
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Ok I scored 25lb of Hawthorn bond fireclay. Should I just mix it to a mortar like consistency with water or do I need to add anything to it? Sand pea gravel portland cement ect? I think the clay alone will be fine but I have never actually worked with it and chipping the motar from the top of the barrel was dusty and messy wanna get it right this time! Thanks for everyones help and input!
 
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This is in response to Mr. Bronson about the rapid set concrete at Home Depot.  I looked it up and did not see any reference to it being refractory or a temperature rating.  I was really hopeful when I sas your post.  Please show me where I missed it.  Thanks.

Well I went to the bottom of the SDS and finally found the reference to decomp temperature being 2460 deg F.  Funny that the spec sheet doesn't say a single thing about it being refractory.

Thanks for the heads up.  I would have never known that Home Depot's rapid set cement was also refractory.

Thanks again

 
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Location: US, East Tennessee, north of Knoxville
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Jay Hughart wrote:Ok I scored 25lb of Hawthorn bond fireclay. Should I just mix it to a mortar like consistency with water or do I need to add anything to it? Sand pea gravel portland cement ect? I think the clay alone will be fine but I have never actually worked with it and chipping the motar from the top of the barrel was dusty and messy wanna get it right this time! Thanks for everyones help and input!



Just like making clay-sand cob, one part fireclay to between 3.5 ~ 4.0 parts masonry sand. Use as little water as possible, to cut down on cracking as it cures. One method I prefer to use, first mix fireclay with water to form "clay slip", about the consistency of pancake batter. Let it sit overnight to insure the fireclay has completely absorbed the water. Then mix in masonry sand to form a stiff cob that can be formed to the desired shape etc. Such a surface made from this will conduct heat well and boil water, but it will be subject to abrasion and wearing away with heavy use like dragging pots across the surface.
 
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