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Glenn Herbert wrote:I like the shed roof over the main space instead of an added gable roof - considerably simpler and more amateur-friendly.
I don't see the structural stage of support for the main shed roof planks... I presume they would be longitudinal beams fairly closely spaced for the about 8' (?) spans between main bents? I get the fact that making the main cross-beams level instead of at the shed roof slope would be easier for amateurs to build, but then there is the complication of supporting the shed slope at varying heights above those beams. Would it be easier overall to build in the shed slope with the main cross beams, also getting more spaciousness inside?
I didn't see any overall dimensions in the recent video; it looks like around a 12' x 24' interior volume 10' high, with 10' clear between main posts, with main posts spaced 8' on center. Is that close?
The porches look longer than the would need to be for earth to stay on the slopes, and the distance from interior wall to entry openings would seriously diminish the amount of light that gets into the interior. The slopes of the porch roofs are so long that the entry holes might be more visible from the air than more steeply sloped openings. From large parts of the interior there would be scarcely more than a glimpse of the outdoors and daylight. Shorter and steeper porch roof slopes would help with that. Overall it would be a very dim interior which would need supplemental lighting except during sunny days. I don't see it being attractive to live in except in a survival mode.
The corner lighting in a previous video would allow better lighting and more comfort, and could be combined with the arched entries desired.
To alleviate the space constraints without making significantly more big structure, I would favor the idea put forth elsewhere of adding some form of slope to the sidewalls of the main space, expanding the floor without significantly expanding the roof. Something like short (5-6' high) side posts with angled beams at 45 degrees up to the main wall tops would give 3 or 4 extra feet of fully usable space on each side, or half again as much floor space without altering the main structure. It would also as Hans Quistorff mentioned ease the poking of the interior corners into the earth envelope.
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Glenn Herbert wrote:I like the shed roof over the main space instead of an added gable roof - considerably simpler and more amateur-friendly.
I don't see the structural stage of support for the main shed roof planks... I presume they would be longitudinal beams fairly closely spaced for the about 8' (?) spans between main bents? I get the fact that making the main cross-beams level instead of at the shed roof slope would be easier for amateurs to build, but then there is the complication of supporting the shed slope at varying heights above those beams. Would it be easier overall to build in the shed slope with the main cross beams, also getting more spaciousness inside?
I didn't see any overall dimensions in the recent video; it looks like around a 12' x 24' interior volume 10' high, with 10' clear between main posts, with main posts spaced 8' on center. Is that close?
The porches look longer than the would need to be for earth to stay on the slopes, and the distance from interior wall to entry openings would seriously diminish the amount of light that gets into the interior. The slopes of the porch roofs are so long that the entry holes might be more visible from the air than more steeply sloped openings. From large parts of the interior there would be scarcely more than a glimpse of the outdoors and daylight. Shorter and steeper porch roof slopes would help with that. Overall it would be a very dim interior which would need supplemental lighting except during sunny days. I don't see it being attractive to live in except in a survival mode.
The corner lighting in a previous video would allow better lighting and more comfort, and could be combined with the arched entries desired.
To alleviate the space constraints without making significantly more big structure, I would favor the idea put forth elsewhere of adding some form of slope to the sidewalls of the main space, expanding the floor without significantly expanding the roof. Something like short (5-6' high) side posts with angled beams at 45 degrees up to the main wall tops would give 3 or 4 extra feet of fully usable space on each side, or half again as much floor space without altering the main structure. It would also as Hans Quistorff mentioned ease the poking of the interior corners into the earth envelope.
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"Also, just as you want men to do to you, do the same way to them" (Luke 6:31)
Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:Sorry, but this design doesn't look like a place I would like to live in, not even for a few days. There's no direct sunlight shining in and there's no view from indoors to outdoors. Paul may have a reason for wanting such a 'wofati', and of course it's always good to experiment ... Maybe this is not meant to be a house to live in?
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Davin Hoyt wrote: ... People can view out of the structure on two sides. Direct sun light may not reach the interior insulated living area, but indirect light will. This is "Davin's base wofati design". I have yet to collaborate with others.
"Also, just as you want men to do to you, do the same way to them" (Luke 6:31)
Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:Davin, can you tell me why you have chosen not to let direct sunlight into the interior
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Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:Davin, can you tell me why you have chosen not to let direct sunlight into the interior
From what I remember, Paul specifically didn't want any passive solar gain into the wofatis as he wants to test and develop the thermal battery idea. Once that's been thoroughly experimented with, then it will be time to mix the two methods. But for now it's very much an experimental design and the idea is to test one thing at a time so the results are easier to interpret.
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Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:
Davin Hoyt wrote: ... People can view out of the structure on two sides. Direct sun light may not reach the interior insulated living area, but indirect light will. This is "Davin's base wofati design". I have yet to collaborate with others.
Davin, can you tell me why you have chosen not to let direct sunlight into the interior?
I know what's the problem with direct sunlight in hot climates. But in colder climates (like in the Ant Village), direct sunlight through the window(s) in wintertime heats the room. I live in a moderate climate, with cloudy, rainy, winters. I feel happy when sometimes there is a more sunny day (often freezing cold) in the wintertime. Sunlight helps against 'winter depression'. And because of the warmth of the sun (infrared) no extra heating is needed.
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Davin Hoyt wrote:I don't remember talking to Paul about not letting direct light into the insulated interior. Instead, I try to analyze the possible degradation of structures due to natural weather activities. There are two points that come to my mind as I search my memory: 1) hobbit hole opening per Paul's request. 2) cover of the wing walls per my attention to the life of the structure.
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Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:
Davin Hoyt wrote:I don't remember talking to Paul about not letting direct light into the insulated interior. Instead, I try to analyze the possible degradation of structures due to natural weather activities. There are two points that come to my mind as I search my memory: 1) hobbit hole opening per Paul's request. 2) cover of the wing walls per my attention to the life of the structure.
Davin, what is the meaning of this structure then? Is it meant for people to live in, or is it only an experiment?
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Davin Hoyt wrote:...
It is meant for year-round human inhabitants.
In short, when I went to Wheaton Labs, I was asked to create something that would guide people building wofatis. I documented and digested Wofatis for awhile. Then documented my own wofati prototype (subject here). This specific wofati is a design; a prescription.
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Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:
Davin Hoyt wrote:...
It is meant for year-round human inhabitants.
In short, when I went to Wheaton Labs, I was asked to create something that would guide people building wofatis. I documented and digested Wofatis for awhile. Then documented my own wofati prototype (subject here). This specific wofati is a design; a prescription.
Thank you Davin. So it is a proto-type, meaning this design can be changed (adjusted) to fit the needs of the potential inhabitant. Right?
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Glenn Herbert wrote:The structural engineering to size the logs for this particular shell would be very useful. Sizing structural members by feel when a builder has little experience (as I expect would be the case for many wofati builders) is obviously asking for trouble or wasted timber.
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Jay Angler wrote:The "Hobbit doors" aren't shown
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Davin Hoyt wrote:This is most current.
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Davin Hoyt wrote:This is most current.
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Davin Hoyt wrote:This is most current.
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Jay Angler wrote:
A)
1. Without some sort of insulation under the "floor" that extends and connects with the foot print of the "dirt umbrella" over the house, all that heat that's been stored over the summer, will still dissipate fairly quickly until the structure is at the typical "5 ft below ground local temperature" which around here is quoted at about 55F. That's too cold for most people to be comfortable unless they're active, and too cold to warm up easily if they've been outside and come in cold and wet.
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