Yes, when I first tried bitter gourd I thought "How could people eat this?!" but then one year living in Nepal I started to like the slightly bitter green leafy vegetables (mustard?) commonly cooked as a saag. I don't remember exactly how or when, but I remember the year that the switch flipped, and I started to love bitter gourd. "Craving" is the word! The first year that I liked it, I'd eat it almost compulsively; now I've calmed down and like to have it once in a while. Exposure is not sufficient to start liking it though -- my (South Indian) housemate's mother forced him to eat it as a kid, so he can tolerate it but dislikes it. (In India it's called karela in Hindi and bitter gourd in English, same thing as bitter melon in China).
Sliced thin and deep fried till crispy is compulsively yummy. In curries is good. A fancy way is stuffed karela, where you slice it in half, scoop it out, cook the insides with minced meat and onions etc, then stuff it back in, tie it up with string and fry the whole thing. I've also improvised spicy oily Indian pickles with karela, and my karela-loving friends loved it.
The seeds are nice and satisfying, and I prefer not removing them. I don't think the pulp around the seeds is more or less bitter, either; but if the pulp is hot pink it's too ripe and generally not eaten or you scrape it out. Salting before cooking is said to reduce the bitterness but I think once your switch flips and you like the bitterness then you won't need that, and if you hate the bitterness, then you won't eat it at all. I don't salt it and my Indian friends don't, I think, though i have heard it suggested. Oh and I've seen recipes suggesting scrape the bumps off the outside --- What? No! That's pointless, the bumps are soft and tender. Eat the whole thing except the stem!
Yes, in India it is considered incredibly healthy and some people even drink its juice or smoothies!
Teresa, it's not
perennial, it just needs a long hot summer, like other gourds and squash, so your few frosts a year shouldn't be a problem.
Where I live now we have a long cold winter so we dry a lot of vegetables, and bitter gourd is one of the few vegetables that reconstitutes and cooks up exactly like fresh.