4)Remove the 5 phillips head screws/bolts that hold the two halves of the WVA together (assuming you can access them all ?)
5)You may not have to disconnect the cold water inlet line which is PEX line and can flex somewhat, but at this point, the two halves of the WVA should separate and that's where the bladder should be to replace. Good luck!
thomas rubino wrote:Hi Judith;
I'm hoping you find a dirty inlet screen.
I'm curious what the complaint is about your heater ?
Judith Browning wrote:The water heater has been in use for four years and our water has a lot of scale even with a whole house filter preceding the water heater. The trouble shooting symptoms all pointed to that.
steve says...I have a service question about our 4 year old Aquah 16L (propane):
Its ignition has gotten very irregular-- it either doesn't kick on at all,
or does and then shuts off in1-3 minutes, occasionally 5 or 6. And it
usually requires two sinks to be running to kick on at all. Can this be the
"inlet water filter screen"? We have a whole house filter, changed
regularly, before the water heater, but the inlet screen has never been
checked. Is it something I can do, or does it require a plumber?
You do not need a plumber. It appears that the diaphragm in the water valve
is either dirty with mineral deposits on its surface or the diaphragm has
gotten rigid over time. As a result, it does not yield to the water pressure
as well as before and that is why you need to turn two faucets on for this
unit to kick on.
You can do two things:
1) Wash the diaphragm clean by pumping pressurized water though the water
outlet (hot side) into the water heater or you may clean the diaphragm up by
taking the water valve apart; or
2) Replace the diaphragm.
You can still get along with the current diaphragm for the time being but
you will need to clean or replace the diaphragm eventually:
Turn a faucet on. If the unit does not kick on, with water running, turn the
Water knob on the front panel clockwise gradually, and the unit may kick on
at a certain point. If the unit kicks on, turn the knob a little bit further
to make sure you have more than enough water pressure to activate the heater
next time. You may need to reduce the gas flow a little if water gets too
Thanks! If you have any more questions, please let me know.
steve....I ordered and received a diaphragm for our 16L propane. You said I don't need a plumber, so I take it I can change this out myself. I just wondered if I'm going to get it apart and then find out I need some gasket or special gunk to put it back together. Any advice on the job?
.....Just take the water valve off of the water heater and take it apart. You do not need anything else. Just replace the diaphragm. Also, when you put the water valve back after you replace the diaphragm, make sure to put the rubber seals in place. Thanks!
I concede defeat. I am unable to "just take the water valve off the water heater." Even if "water valve" means just the right half of the "water valve assembly", the five screws still go in from the inaccessible left. And even if I remove the solenoid to get at one hidden screw, I can't reach another without tearing into the electronic heart the solenoid is wired to, and even then I think the whole gas manifold is still in the way. I couldn't even loosen the incoming water connection. I'm calling the plumber. Please send diagrammatic instructions for him. (He has some experience with on demand water heaters.)
.....Hi Steve, I tried to call you but nobody answered the phone. Left a message in your voicemail. I don't have instructions on replacing the diaphragm. Please ask the plumber to call me when he has questions. By the way, it appears you did not do it right. You first need to take the water valve off of the water heater. Then take the water valve apart to replace the diaphragm. You cannot take the valve apart when the water valve is on the heater. If you wanna try again, call me. Thanks!