High tunnel

Currently I have a high tunnel enclosed in plastic with metal hoops.  I have a supply of storm doors and storm windows.  I want to frame in and enclose the ends.  What is the best way to attach the studes to the 1.75 inch hoops? The tunnel measures 12 feet wide by 8 feet tall.  It is about 26 feet long.

Is there any chance of a picture and some dimensions?  

As for the easiest way to attach, without considering dimension or design.

There is something called a "tension band" used with cyclone fencing.  This would be able loop around your pipe and then be easily screwed or bolted into a piece of wood, be it 2 x4 or flat board etc.  This would be a way to easily and fairly cheaply attach a sturdy frame to the round metal pipe without a lot of drilling of cutting or anything.

Without a good visual I am just spitballing here, but this should be a fairly easy way no matter what you have.

This what they look like and they come in various pipe sizes.  One can bend them easily enough as need be to fit what wood or wall pieces you may be utilizing for the walls.



You can order these all over the internet or you can most certainly pick them up at your local building supply cheap enough.

Thanks, this was originally going to be my approach.  Then I saw someone drilling holes through the tubing, so i began to wonder.  

Do you have a layout/design planned?

It _may_ be worth it to raise the glass 12-18" or so off the ground (on a "stemwall", or just on horizontal 2x blocking at the chosen height) because the bottom will be most at risk of physical damage; that won't compromise much light/energy. Or not, depending on you particular situation.


Regards,
Rufus

Hi Rufus,

This is a high tunnel that has been in place for 2 years.  I do have it off the ground both to protect the braces from rust as well as to protect the fabric from weed wackers.  I had always intended to enclose the ends.  At the ends, where there is glass, I intend to have a 4 ft elevation of wood on the north and 2 ft on the south.  I have a combination of raised beds ....2ft high .....and large pots inside.  I have a small sheep herders stove that I am enclosing in  a concrete block extension on the north.  I want to minimize the chance of burning the whole darned thing down, but I do want protection from severe temperature dips.  I already have 200 gal of water stored in it that is  effective for minor dips. It is  not my intention to heat it from Christmas to the end of Feb.  Without the stove, it is good to about 18 degrees ....but not prolonged.  A heat source will take me through a 3 or 4 day drop that we sometimes get in Nov.

I am in the process of installing an 8x12 greenhouse attached to the south side of my house.  That will be heated all winter.

Sounds like a good simple plan.

Do you use the hoop to start seeds or do you use it as a full fledged warm garden or what? I saw one  family making an herb & greens business from 3 or 4 big hoops - 60' long, 12' high (?) saw their set up on a blog 4-5 years ago, don't recall the details. Wisconsin, I think. Looked like a good system, but they did it all manually as I recall and they never had to worry about "idle hands". <g>


Regards,
Rufus

Do you open the ends for ventilation in the warmer seasons? If you use those materials as the ends, you might want to make sure they are openable or removable. Well anyway, in my climate I very much need to ventilate the ends of my greenhouse in the shoulder season, and I actually remove the entire glazing for summer. Otherwise my plants would get cooked to death.

The windows  will open in both ends.  The doors are storm doors with screens. Probably a total of 12 to 16 square ft on each end for air flow. I am considering some solar fans.  I think the tunnel is on its 3rd year.  It has worked great at extending the growing season.  It is nice to get fresh salads in Nov and Dec.  

I have a tent with shelves, lights, and heat for starting seeds indoors.  The lights are led.  The heat appears to seldom run.....which makes sense because it is indoors.