Why are you giving up only after a single day? It really only needs some elemental math to get it done.
First and foremost the first advice to give you is to give up 12V completely. Sticking with 12V appears to be a holdover from the 1980s, when 12V panels were the only thing out there, and panels were 4-5$ per watt. Now you can get high-voltage grid-tie panels off Craigslist for 4-5W per dollar. I would design either a 24 or a 48V system. The size basically dictates the voltage.
For systems needing less than 1000W, 12V is still OK.
Lights and TV
For systems needing to power things in the 1000-2000W range, power tools for example, then 24V. Refrigerators, circular saws, ect.
For big systems powering things like 240VAC well pumps, then go with 48V.
At my own homestead over the years, I've designed and built all three. I currently run 24 and 48V system right now as we speak.
For the charge controller you need to pay attention to two things, the maximal amperage, and the maximal voltage. New MPPT controllers act as a transformer, taking raw high solar voltage and transforming down to the level the battery wants. In the process, it converts the extra volts into extra amps, so the battery will charge faster.
The maximal amperage is the amperage that goes into the battery, not the amperage that goes into the controller. Let's take the example of your panels you mentioned above. Remember the addage, in series voltage adds while amperage stays the same. In parallel, amperage adds will voltage stays the same. For your 5 panels, wired in series (+-+-+-+-+-) you would get 16.77+16.77+16.77+16.77+16.77=83.85V and 12.48A. In parallel (+++++-----) you would get 12.48A+12.48A+12.48A+12.48A+12.48A=62.4A at 16.77V
Power is V X A =W In both cases, the power is exactly the same. 83.85V X 12.48A = 1046W. 62.4A X 16.77V = 1046W
In general, it's easier to make high voltage components instead of high amperage ones. High current = high heat. High voltage can be transmitted through wire as thick as your hair. High amperage can be transmitted through wire as thick as your thumb. So, modern MPPT controllers are designed to work with high voltage instead of high amperage. BTW, MPPT controller can only transform voltage DOWN, They CANNOT transform voltage up.
Now, let's design you a system with these ideas in mind.
Take your 5 panels and wire them in series. You'll be making 12.48amps at 83.85V. You first connect the charge controller to a 24V battery bank. That could be four 6V golf-cart batteries (Costco has them for 99$) wired in series for 24V. Remember, ALWAYS connect the controller to the battery first BEFORE connecting the solar panels. The controller
should give a reading of around 25V or so. It will NOT be exactly 24V. After the controller is booted up and talking to the battery, then you connect the solar panels. Now you program the controller to charge the batteries at the specifications given by the battery manufacturer, usually 28.8V to 29.6V. The controller will now take the high raw solar voltage and transform it down to the voltage the battery wants. Charging might start out at ~26V for a discharged battery, going up to the programed limit when fully charged.
In the real world you always include a fudge factor, because nothing is ever 100%. There is always some loss through heat. Lets use a 0.85X fudge factor.
So, the math works out to be (1046W/26V) X 0.85FF = 34.2amps at the battery terminals. So, a 40A controller could safely handle these 5 panels.
Suppose you insist on a 12V system. The math would be (1046W/13V) X 0.85FF =68.4amps. Doable, but you'll need a MUCH more expensive controller that can handle 68A. They make them, but it's 600$ instead of 250$
Now we talk about the voltage. There are two voltages to talk about here, the working voltage when power is being made, the Vmp (16.77V), and the open circuit voltage, or Voc (19.83V). The Voc is the voltage you'll measure when the DISCONNECTED bare solar wires are tested with a voltmeter. For 5 panels in series those numbers would be 83.85Vmp and 99.15Voc. The cheaper controllers have a max voltage of 100V, and your Voc of 99.15 is dangerously close to that number. Voltage goes up as the temperature goes down. At 32F the voltage will go up by 1.12X. So, on a frosty winter morning, the Voc will shoot up to 99.15Voc X 1.12= 111Voc, enough to fry the controller. So, you need a controller with a max voltage in the 150V range.
Look at this controller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Epever-MPPT-Solar-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-36V-48V-Tracer-AN-Regulator-200V-PV/352541593982?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item52151dd17e:g:CQsAAOSwuWJbuH2K&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkWpEuxXwAiCNKyBQsQ5%252Fe66X7qH28gIEqHq4MNmUyP4hmaafAjg8CnbeKNCH6eUHrWMo4dMu519lT4YK8AlXDG6UZUeofDO%252BE80upRq4NBeX43gnbuUXvaWCa4U3VkZ9BNSU4dG3t0WMDzU9amC3ShvjzPnpuHVzqQo9ru1YW5bgaUCcMbTqiiiME6aJNQOCPpNGMyBRFI2sau58%252BIdoCp59FTAKnq5KzX%252Fh4MxaoFsQVg%252F4AleP9h4Fr7BPkK%252FKCYZgVnrfspTCYPuIXxiWr9RyFR5TIXrma4xOA8cm8Sr34NFqjyurxRRfsNRLvM2TxdW6W9EV%252F8kVxISH9omc%252FGve37%252FagM8KyAbQRRkmKe5brufCRx7ws1pxl6yOWkFirnBz%252FcJ8qRHhrXTugYm%252Fl736r5QYfL1B1k%252FwT70Aipb%252BWEsJHSfyGU3h3MZ8qG476kqQLxBDnnwTvfFmx96PRNAwHBMfhb%252B4UEwkIWwpDAImB84aof5CokOImnFuDCUzk4tIDjdAylWFeDp%252FpVM5kMiXCovBQ8kYrEg%252FiflVBmyBdOv3VZA96P%252FH0a3HiPhXhuwXQAIray1tmp4KlbdWhzRjgknFRNt5lvA5HX2tpq9snQBPXF6MQ9ilF2gWnyf1kmFEXt8n6mwPrHxJEHCH%252Bnh8tvH4IbBpZV9s%252FURz4S2HeX620uWBeLojbnBVS%252FBAVZi2YgucnnMXXdgVMzIUbIHCNBUx0ZlYeI2v42izDo97oukVQm9lJfX7UpmcEPBuMme%252BgmzOGkx%252FzP%252FkkK%252BwJrg%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A352541593982dc45811877d847ef8f0ccefab7b8b9d9%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
It can handle as many as 50A at 150Voc. That would be a good choice for your system.
Lastly, you will need to install an inverter if you want to run standard 120VAC appliances. Make sure you get a sine-wave inverter if you want to power a refrigerator or run power tools that run on an electric motor.
https://ressupply.com/inverters/samlex-pst-1500-24-pure-sine-wave-inverter